眼睛尖的游客可能早就在瓦洛洛市场看到过一个红底金字的牌匾——“龙眼达叻”。

图片来自touringthailandblog.wordpress.com

“达叻”在泰语里是“市场”的意思，龙眼就是咱认识的那个水果龙眼，泰语里读作“lamyai”(‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍ลำไย)。
今天TIMES君化身清迈历史挖掘机，首先带大家看看瓦洛洛（Warorot Market）的前世今生。
外语NB症复发的我还搞了中英双文版，farang们也可以keep up with me！
《清迈历史挖掘机》系列将在今年不定期上线，对老清迈感兴趣的读者可以久不久回来视察我的学习成果。

1

清迈历史最悠久的商业中心

在当地人口中，瓦洛洛（Warorot）一般不叫瓦洛洛，它叫Kad Luang。

Kad Luang算是泰北方言，Kad=market=市场；Luang=great=伟大的。

现代游客估计看不懂。这个看起来老破小、脏乱差的市场伟大在哪儿呢？

答案可能是：它是清迈历史上最古老最知名的商业集市。

瓦洛洛市场1912年就开业大吉了，至今已有112年的历史。100多年前，那些个没有网购甚至没有超市和便利店的日子，人们想要买东西只能亲自出门赶集。

那会儿的清迈人，一般上哪儿赶集？

就是来现在的瓦洛洛市场赶集。作为物资匮乏的年代里全城买卖力最强的集市，你说它伟不伟大。

Warorot Market is not called Warorot but Kad Luang in local people's eyes.
Kad Luang is a northern Thai dialect, Kad=market, Luang=great.
Foreign tourists might not understand why is this small, dirty market that looks old and shabby great?
The answer may be: It is the oldest and most well-known commercial bazaar in Chiang Mai's history.
Warorot Market opened in 1912 and has a history of 112 years so far. In those days when there was no online shopping or even supermarkets and convenience stores, people had to go out in person to buy things.
Where did people in Chiang Mai go to at that time?
They headed to Warorot Market directly. As the city's most powerful trading market in the era of scarcity, being unique & irreplaceable made it great.

图片来自touringthailandblog.wordpress.com

最早期的瓦洛洛市场没有太多琳琅满目的商品可选，最初它只是一个大米、纺织品、水果的交易中心。
市场成立不久这里很快收到了当地人和缅甸等邻国商人的欢迎。多年来瓦洛洛经历过数次翻新和变化，这个看起来平平无奇的市场却是许多人养家糊口的生意场。
它作为一个贸易中心，对当地经济起着重要的发展作用。除去它的“最老商业街”标签，瓦洛洛也是清迈的文化地标（之一）。
你想看当地人怎么吃？穿？住？行？来瓦洛洛一趟便知。
The earliest version of Warorot Market did not have much to choose from; it was originally a trading center for rice, textiles, and fruit.
Soon after the market was established, it quickly became popular with locals and traders from neighboring countries such as Myanmar. Warorot has undergone several renovations and changes over the years, but this seemingly unremarkable market is a business where many people earn a living.
As a trade center, it plays an important role in the development of the local economy. Despite its "oldest commercial street" label,Warorot is also one of Chiang Mai's cultural landmarks.
You want to see what the locals eat? What they wear? How they live? A small trip to Warorot will tell you.

图片来自siampictures.com

直至今日，瓦洛洛市场也依旧是清迈的布料中心，你想搜寻的布料/纺织品都可以在瓦洛洛慢慢淘。
而追溯到它成为一个集市之前的身份，当地人告诉我这里没开发前曾是一片种满龙眼树的田地。
这就是为什么牌匾上刻着一个“龙眼达叻”的原因。

Until today, Warorot Market is still the fabric center of Chiang Mai, any fabric/textile you are looking for can be found here.

And dating back to its pre-market status, locals told me it used to be a field full of longan trees before development.

That is why the plaque has a "Longan Darat" engraved on it.

图片来自touringthailandblog.wordpress.com

2 同一个市场，白天黑夜大不同
小小的瓦洛洛市场，肩上担着好几个不同的身份。
除了上文提到的最古老贸易中心、商业街、龙眼田，它还是清迈的唐人街（19世纪，早期移居清迈的华人大都选择在Chiang Moi一带居住）
如今的瓦洛洛市场被分为好几个不同的部分，瓦洛洛市场的一楼主要出售新鲜农产品，比如：肉类、海鲜、鲜花、小吃等。往二楼走，上面主要卖当地特色服装、纺织品、手工艺品、草药等。

Tiny as it is, Warorot Market carries several different identities on its small shoulders.

In addition to the oldest trading center, commercial street, and Longan fields mentioned above, it is also Chiang Mai's Chinatown (Chiang Moi was the area where most of the early Chinese settlers settled in the 19th century).

Today Warorot Market is divided into several different sections, the first floor mainly sells fresh products, such as: meat, seafood, flowers, snacks and so on. Up to the second floor, which mainly sells local clothing, textiles, handicrafts, herbs and so on.

图片来自touringthailandblog.wordpress.com

同一个瓦洛洛，又可分为白天和黑夜两个版本。
白天的瓦洛洛主要靠各种金店、布料店、要么花花绿绿的游客印花服装/要么无欲无求的宽松棉麻服装店、Win Cosmetics杂货店和美发用品店撑着。

The same Warorot Market can look very different, divided by day and night.

During the day,  Warorot is mostly supported by a variety of gold shops, fabric shops, either flowery printed clothes or loose-fitting cotton and linen clothing stores for toursits, Win Cosmetics grocery stores and hair supply stores.

图片来自mariela rueda

图片来自siampictures.com

外加大街小巷里夹杂的几家小吃摊（比如专业卖萝卜糕/泰式奶茶20+年的大叔大妈），就构成了这个超级晒但是的确有料的老商业街。
到了晚上就厉害了。我个人更爱夜晚的瓦洛洛。
不光怕热的泰国人都大量出动了，白天看不到的“服务”都随着夜色降临全部登场了，我将它们分为四大块：做美甲的、卖衣服的、卖吃的、卖花的。

Coupled with a few food stalls in the streets and alleys (such as the uncle and aunt who have been professionally selling radish cake/Thai milk tea for 20+ years), it forms this super burning but an old commercial street that really has something.

At night, it's amazing. I personally prefer Warorot at night.

Not only the Thais who are afraid of the heat are out now, but the "services" that are not seen during the day are all on stage as the night falls, which I have divided into four parts: manicure, clothes, food and flowers.

图片来自siampictures.com

霸占了瓦洛洛夜市半条街的路边美甲，价格低得惊人。均价150-250泰铢的美甲，即来即做。美甲师有小姑娘，也有比你还懂得怎么做女人的小哥哥。。。
TIMES君做过两次，当晚效果看着挺好的，结果三天后翘边了，回国后才发现清迈美甲师默认给顾客做“全贴甲片”，which按照国内美甲行业的审美和技术来说早就过时了。。。

Sidewalk manicures stands that take over half of the block, i was shocked by its shockingly low price. Nails with an average price of 150-250 baht are ready to be done. Manicurists include little girls and, little brothers who know how to be a woman better than you...;)

I did it twice, my new nails looked good that night, but the edge was warped after three days,only after returning home did I find that Chiang Mai manicurists default to customers to do "all nail patches", which according to our domestic nail industry aesthetic&technique is already outdated...

摆在打烊的门店外那一个个挂着现代服装的地摊，风格多为东南亚夜店辣妹style。对于收入普通的泰国当地人来说，去Central这样的商业中心有些奢侈，Kad Luang就因其接地气的价格成为了平替。
路边卖小吃的摊子白天不多，到了晚上总随着游客增多“愈演愈烈”。泰国的菜市场比我们的“全能”，通常国内的菜市只卖生食或卤味，但泰国的市场还多了个开袋即食的选项。
对于外国游客来说这里是有炸蟋蟀、炸昆虫、烤香蕉、色彩斑斓泰式甜点等的小吃天堂，100泰铢真的够你吃4-5种不同的泰式小吃（每种均价20泰铢）
对于当地人来说这里还是现成的饭堂。30泰铢丢出去，可以换来一袋已经煮好的绿咖喱炖肉或红咖喱炒肉。老板真空小袋一装，橡皮筋一绑，再买上10泰铢的糯米，一顿50泰铢不到的单身狗晚餐就搞定了。

The stalls outside the closed stores are decorated with modern clothes, mostly in the style of Southeast Asian nightclub spice girls. For Thai locals who earn very little, going to shopping malls  like Central is a bit of a luxury, and Kad Luang is a popular destination for its down-to-earth prices.

There is not many snack stalls outside during the day, at night, it is always "getting more & more" with the increase of tourists. Thailand's vegetable market is more "versitile" than ours, usually Chinese vegetable markets only sell raw food or marinated stuff, but Thailand's market also has an "open and ready to eat" option.

For foreign tourists, it is a snack paradise with fried crickets, fried insects, roasted bananas, colorful Thai desserts, etc. 100 baht really can buy you 4-5 different Thai snacks (average price of 20 baht each).

It's also a ready-made dining hall for locals. Throw away 30 baht and you can get a bag of cooked green curry stew or red curry stir-fried meat. Packed in a small round vacuum bag, tied up with a rubber band, and then buy 10 baht of sticky rice, a dinner less than 50 baht for a single person is done.

图片来自happy cow

靠萍河那边的卖花店，对我有恩啊！去年摩托车烂在路边，正是花店的姑娘们帮我修好的。
大家都知道泰国司机喜欢在车上挂象征着“好运”、“尊重”、“平安”的phuang malai花环。

The flower shop by the Ping River was kind to me! It was the girls at the florist who fixed my motorbike last year...

Thai drivers are known to hang phuang malai garlands symbolizing "good luck," "respect," and "peace."

图片来自touringthailandblog.wordpress.com

瓦洛洛市场靠河那侧算是一个小“交通枢纽”，那儿停着去往清迈不同方向的双条车。作为始发站/终点站，司机们在出发前顺手买上20泰铢的花串，新的一天又这么开始了。
注：phuang malai被认为是专门供奉给掌管道路神灵的（Mae Yanang)，因此只要是跟出行有关的工具，不论是船还是车，在泰国你都能看到司机的后视镜上挂着一串新鲜的黄白花串。

The river side of Warorot Market is a small "transportation hub", where local song taew (taxi)are parked and will drive to different directions in Chiang Mai. As the start/end station, drivers love to buy 20 baht flower before departure, and a new day begins again.

Note: phuang malai is believed to be dedicated to Mae Yanang, the spirit of the road/trip, so any vehicle related to travel, be it a boat or a car, in Thailand you will see a string of fresh yellow&white flowers hanging from the driver's rearview mirror.

图片来自siampictures.com

纽约、悉尼、多伦多、曼谷，世界上许多大城市都拥有华人及其涉华业务密集的唐人街。清迈的瓦洛洛规模虽不及曼谷Yaowarat路的唐人街，但麻雀虽小，五脏俱全。
每次回到清迈，闲来无事时我都会去瓦洛洛散个步。其实我并不喜欢这种破烂、老旧街道的氛围，但每当入市那一刻，看到夜市摊上泰国人民友善的微笑，我都觉得自己来对了地方。
相信就算你不是中国人，也会爱上这个小小的中国城——不华丽但可爱的瓦洛洛市场。

New York, Sydney, Toronto, Bangkok, many major cities in the world have its own Chinatown that gathers Chinese immigrants and their Chinese related business. Chiang Mai's Warorot Market is smaller than Bangkok's Chinatown on Yaowarat Road, but still it's fully equipped.
Whenever I come back to Chiang Mai, I go for a walk in Warorot when I have nothing to do. I don't really like the shabby, old street atmosphere, but whenever I enter the market and see the friendly smiles of the Thai people at the night market stalls, I feel that I have come to the right place.
I'm sure you don't have to be Chinese to fall in love with this little Chinatown - dear humble but cute Warorot Market.

Oh. Here also has the oldest gun shop in Chiang Mai瓦洛洛市场还卖枪

皮筋和包装袋，泰国人用到了极致。

激动人心，无法言表！