菲律宾图巴塔哈船宿潜水之旅
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="423992535">如果厌倦山川河流<br>
如果看腻陆上世界<br>
如果不屑大象和蚂蚁<br>
那么<br>
欢迎潜到多姿多彩的水底世界<br>
鲨鱼魔鬼鱼海龟......<br>
来个亲密邂逅
</p>
<div data-seq="424001122" data-index="1" class="article_title _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem">
<h2 class="t9"><span class="_j_anchor">图巴塔哈</span></h2>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="424001123">
图巴塔哈，全称是Tubbataha Reef Natural Park，世界文化遗产，位于
巴拉望
省普林塞萨港东南98海里外（181公里）的苏禄海中，有两个珊瑚环礁，具体长什么样，可参看地图。
</p>
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<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="house"></i>图巴塔哈礁层自然公园
</span>
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="423993134">
这个保护区周围239,000英亩的海域，是各种色彩斑斓的鱼类的栖息地，还有鲸鲨、锤头鲨，梭鱼，蝠鲼，手掌大小的镰鱼，鹦鹉鱼和鳗鱼等等，玳瑁海龟也不少见。
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总之一句话，这里就是潜水的天堂。而身为一名潜水员，船宿无疑是最值得向往的旅行了。
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="423995630">
看看1000比索纸币的背面，再看看
马尼拉
T3航站楼的广告位，图巴塔哈可谓是
大名
鼎鼎的
菲律宾
国家名片。
</p>
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="423993642">
虽然半年前作预定的时候，我连地名都不太能记得住，但现在，图巴塔哈已经成为一个梦牵魂绕的地方，皆因在这里，我与大家一样，观赏了无数的美景，遇见了太多的幸运，还有留下了珍贵的难忘回忆……
</p>
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="423993824">
在超哥一句“鲸鲨看到吐！”的感召下，我们这一群勇敢、无畏的潜水小伙伴，从四面八方飞到了遥远的
巴拉望
，汇集到了酷热的
公主港
，跳上了摇摇摆摆的小艇，登上了海上临时的家“Narayana”号。
</p>
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="423994285">
“Narayana”是
印度
教中一位女神的名字，主管海上的一切。这也预示着我们这次海上行程会受到女神的眷顾，一切顺利平安。
</p>
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="423994330">
船上设施挺齐全，有8个房间，每个房有独立洗澡间，还有可供躺、睡、坐的露台；船尾是潜水装备和充气区；二层是船长室和客厅，也是主要的公共活动区域；三层是
天台
，可供停船时自拍、观星、睡觉和唱歌用……
</p>
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="423996433">
首登潜水船，心情有点小激动，但得先开船务会。船上有好多规矩，
比如
不许在充气区抽烟，不许在行船时到
天台
吹风，不许到神圣的船头摆TITANIC式的经典造型……公园的工作人员笑容可掬地上船来做科普环保教育，发纪念小卡片，更重要的是收取公园门票买路钱……海关警察也一脸严肃地东看西看，做例行检查。一切准备就绪，船起锚，我们向着大洋深处进发了！
</p>
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:504px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/83/0B/wKgED1xRDxCAOpN7AABs5uHUD7k20.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/83/0B/wKgED1xRDxCAOpN7AABs5uHUD7k20.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/83/0B/wKgED1xRDxCAOpN7AABs5uHUD7k20.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="423996551" alt="">
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="423996553">
潜水的行程其实很规律，每天早早六点起床，六点半做Briefing，七点钟就跳下水，八点半可以吃早餐；十点半来第二潜，十二点把自己捞出来吃午饭；下午两点又继续，四点钟开始下午茶，最后在夕阳中结束完第四潜，就可以放开肚皮吃晚餐了……在这种规律的潜水生活中，心情极度放松（主要是因为没有信号，根本就不要想发什么朋友圈），该吃吃该喝喝，该睡觉就睡觉，看书的看书，打牌的打牌，搞笑的负责搞笑……至于仪式和激动嘛，还是得一起来。
</p>
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="423996601">
仪式在潜水日的第二天早上举行，什么仪式？当然是祈祷仪式啦（请看小视频）。
</p>
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="423996681">
<br>
事实证明，这仪式相当管用。激动的时刻，就来自于当天的最后一潜。本来以为在Triggerfish City的这一潜只是用来排氮，结果我们却碰上了“奥斯卡”（名字是Kim起的，后来知道去年也遇见过，老朋友了），一条长四米左右的“青年”鲸鲨。
</p>
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当时我落在队伍后面，正慢吞吞地潜行，忽然听到潜导的召唤，抬头看到一帮人在前面拼命地踢腿前进。我知道肯定发现什么大货了，但又不敢上升太快。<br>
等赶上去一看，我的天啊，大家正围着一条鲸鲨在不停地摄影拍照。鲸鲨巨大的身躯，在十几个潜水员中穿梭着，回绕着，在蓝色海水的映衬下显得那么真实而又梦幻。我离得稍远，“奥斯卡”居然冲我迎面过来，我轻轻避开，它又回身，继续向着其他人而去。
</p>
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Kim拿出备用二级头向它喷气，它摇头摆尾，明显心情愉快。与其说我们在观赏它，还不如说“奥斯卡”正在与我们嬉戏。与鲸鲨共舞，这种机会真是绝无仅有，我们也拍摄到了大量珍贵的视频和照片。
</p>
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="423997112">
"各位观众，各位观众，我是记者贝雷，我现在正身处图巴塔哈群礁水下18米，为大家现场直播人鲨共舞的奇观%‘’
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="423997353">
事实上在最后一潜，我们还看见了一条更加巨大的成年的鲸鲨，但人家根本不理睬我们，我好歹拼命踢腿追了上去，勉强合了个影……Smile！
</p>
<div id="_j_photo_423997494" data-seq="423997495" data-pid="423997494" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:451px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/83/C9/wKgED1xRD9-AXsiKAACCvyQobVM76.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/83/C9/wKgED1xRD9-AXsiKAACCvyQobVM76.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/83/C9/wKgED1xRD9-AXsiKAACCvyQobVM76.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="423997494" alt="">
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="423997496">
到“清洁站”Black Rock等候，也是一个好机会。运气真不赖，一只2米长的Manta就从我眼前滑行过去。我紧随着Kim，跟着Manta仔细地观察，它的姿态真是优雅极了。
</p>
<div id="_j_photo_423997566" data-seq="423997567" data-pid="423997566" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s1/M00/72/A5/wKgIC1xRD_GAeuLxAACT_XIO_XY29.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s1/M00/72/A5/wKgIC1xRD_GAeuLxAACT_XIO_XY29.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s1/M00/72/A5/wKgIC1xRD_GAeuLxAACT_XIO_XY29.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="423997566" alt="">
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="423997568">
Washing Machine正在啃食珊瑚的海龟也挺可爱。
</p>
<div id="_j_photo_423997679" data-seq="423997680" data-pid="423997679" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s1/M00/72/D5/wKgIC1xREAOADLP1AAF7H9Q8YUI58.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s1/M00/72/D5/wKgIC1xREAOADLP1AAF7H9Q8YUI58.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s1/M00/72/D5/wKgIC1xREAOADLP1AAF7H9Q8YUI58.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="423997679" alt="">
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="423997681">
Delsan Wreck悬崖下，几条小鲨鱼“放牧”着一大群杰克鱼，估计这是它们的伙食；而在Malayan Wreck五六十米深处，成群结队的鲨鱼们正在盘旋游弋，仿佛不小心掉下去，就会成为它们的盘中餐似的（事实上，鲨鱼并不像传说中那么可怕，请自行参看海洋知识小百科）。
</p>
<div id="_j_photo_423997782" data-seq="423997783" data-pid="423997782" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:560px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s4/M00/85/33/wKgIDlxREBeACIsjAAFkIscXRu019.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s4/M00/85/33/wKgIDlxREBeACIsjAAFkIscXRu019.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s4/M00/85/33/wKgIDlxREBeACIsjAAFkIscXRu019.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="423997782" alt="">
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="423997784">
超过两百条Parrorfish在沉船残骸上聚集，威武的老大正在上面统治着整个家族；海狼倒是挺多，他们说还太小，不够肥……
</p>
<div id="_j_photo_423997824" data-seq="423997825" data-pid="423997824" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/01/0A/wKgBZ1xRECaAb-OzAAC_VkvPbzo86.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/01/0A/wKgBZ1xRECaAb-OzAAC_VkvPbzo86.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/01/0A/wKgBZ1xRECaAb-OzAAC_VkvPbzo86.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="423997824" alt="">
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="423997826">
到了晚上再下去，则会发现海底世界又大不一样，惊慌失措的狗头豚直接撞到我的大腿和老游的镜头前，蓝点鳐身上的斑点更加醒目了（手电很重要！手电很重要！手电很重要！）；在未知名的Malayan Cavern，我们不仅钻了礁洞，还看到了更大的Oceanic Manta。
</p>
<div id="_j_photo_423997869" data-seq="423997870" data-pid="423997869" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/9D/4A/wKgBEFxRED2AK-wNAAE_SfHhnuQ85.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/9D/4A/wKgBEFxRED2AK-wNAAE_SfHhnuQ85.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/9D/4A/wKgBEFxRED2AK-wNAAE_SfHhnuQ85.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="423997869" alt="">
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="423997871">
最后一潜的Jessice Beazley，有一处无比美丽的珊瑚花园，长着许多像卷心菜似的珊瑚。深度刚好，光线刚好，在“菜地”上面漫游，画面简直太完美了。
</p>
<div id="_j_photo_423997909" data-seq="423997910" data-pid="423997909" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:680px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/9D/72/wKgBEFxREE2AL-7PAAGQIgONaLg87.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/9D/72/wKgBEFxREE2AL-7PAAGQIgONaLg87.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/9D/72/wKgBEFxREE2AL-7PAAGQIgONaLg87.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="423997909" alt="">
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="423997911">
<br>
说起船主兼潜导Kim，这可是一个有着超过27年潜水经验的大神啊（此处该有惊呼声）！这个
阿尔及利亚
和
越南
的混血老帅哥，出生在西贡，到
美国
求学，在
泰国
打拳，八几年就到
少林寺
学过艺，会讲英语法语泰语
越南
语
菲律宾
语还有神奇的粤语，可以画出很棒的鲨鱼、Manta 以及水底导游图。
</p>
<div id="_j_photo_423998171" data-seq="423998172" data-pid="423998171" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:504px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/9D/A4/wKgBEFxREGCAaKNyAAEgJddaMOo51.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/9D/A4/wKgBEFxREGCAaKNyAAEgJddaMOo51.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/9D/A4/wKgBEFxREGCAaKNyAAEgJddaMOo51.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="423998171" alt="">
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="423998173">
他最深过到八十米，平时下五六十米的大深度跟玩似的（这个深度已经远远超过了休闲潜水的极限，大家千万不要模仿）。他在水中的姿态，则如同鱼儿一样灵活。我跟着Kim，看到他为发现一处小小的特别而惊喜，看到他不时地向鱼群和其他海底生物表示敬意。
</p>
<div id="_j_photo_423998247" data-seq="423998248" data-pid="423998247" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:504px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/9D/CE/wKgBEFxREHCAf4xzAAD_4P5sr5M70.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/9D/CE/wKgBEFxREHCAf4xzAAD_4P5sr5M70.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/9D/CE/wKgBEFxREHCAf4xzAAD_4P5sr5M70.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="423998247" alt="">
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="423998249">
Kim发自内心地热爱着海洋，应该说，他的潜水已经升华到了一种境界（此处该有掌声）。我跟Kim相谈甚欢，也从他身上学到了许多东西，希望以后还有机会能与这位大神一起畅游海底世界（不会画鲨鱼的潜导不是一个好拳师！）。
</p>
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