2019元旦菲律宾妈妈岛+薄荷潜水之旅——记一段未完成的旅行
<div data-seq="424865307" data-index="1" class="article_title _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem"><h2 class="t9"><span class="_j_anchor">写在前面</span></h2>
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="424864905">
继2018年7月的
斯里兰卡
，终于达成了100潜，这次从比较出名的妈妈岛长尾鲨和薄荷开始，在2018年底开启了第一次
菲律宾
跨年之旅。<br><br>
出发时间：2018.12.30<br>
出行天数：8<br>
人均费用：9000<br><br>
【 行 程 】<br>
12月30日晚，
南京
—
上海
—
深圳
—宿务；<br>
5月4日晚，宿务—
深圳
—
上海
—
南京
；<br>
合计2115元。<br><br>
【 行 李 】<br>
潜水装备：相机gopro/手电筒/电脑表；<br>
个人衣物：冬夏两套衣服；<br>
合计1个20寸箱子+1个双肩包，箱子托运。<br><br>
【 费 用 】<br>
妈妈岛3天3晚：12.31-3.3；<br>
潜水：1731.08元（thresher shark divers）+1154（王者）；<br>
酒店：822元（Blue Corals Beach Resort）+1641（Lost horizontal resort）；<br>
妈妈岛3天3晚：12.31-1.3；<br>
薄荷3天4晚：1.3-1.6；<br>
其他：吃喝+马杀鸡，约1000元。
</p>
<div data-seq="424865523" data-index="2" class="article_title _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem">
<h2 class="t9"><span class="_j_anchor">出发</span></h2>
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="424865524">
Day 0<br>
经过在飞机上度过的一个晚上，睡了醒醒了睡，深夜在
深圳
华丽的
宝山
机场转机，清晨时分人并不多，却可见处处设计和装饰上的用心之处，似乎在显示着这个城市的特殊气质，不禁想到：在这里居住过的人，多年的生活会是怎么样？近10个小时之后，总算来到宿务，机场很小，换好夏天的一身衣服，走出去便是
东南亚
特有的情调，前一天刚下过雨，地上湿漉漉的，时间是早上7点，又是2018的最后一天，空气里飘着懒散的气息。
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="424865744">
A. 宿务机场出口的一角。<br><br>
打车到了north bus station只需要半个小时，路上兴致盎然，看不够的蓝天白云绿色植物。到了车站稍等片刻启程前往Maya镇，公路一大段是沿海修建，左边是树林，右边是海景，看着心情大好。不一会路上困顿袭来，再也挡不住，一路醒醒睡睡。开始还过一会看看GPS走了多远，后来干脆不看了，乡间公路上车开的很慢，而且是招手停，路人三三两两，自在悠闲，到Maya镇附近司机还会停下来和熟人打个招呼聊两句。到了镇上天色转阴，好在正赶上一艘去妈妈岛的船，一路伴着微风细雨。
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:906px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/26/A7/wKgED1xUYhiARSErAAiaVOQ07WU41.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/26/A7/wKgED1xUYhiARSErAAiaVOQ07WU41.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/26/A7/wKgED1xUYhiARSErAAiaVOQ07WU41.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="424866336" alt="">
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="424866340">
B. 从宿务到Maya镇登船上岛，一路艰程。
</p>
<div data-seq="424865552" data-index="3" class="article_title _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem">
<h2 class="t9"><span class="_j_anchor">妈妈岛</span></h2>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="424865553">
Day 1<br>
晃晃悠悠到妈妈岛已经下午3点，一晃大半天已经过去，本想到潜店thresher shark divers先签个到来一潜，为第二天做准备，不巧当天下午的潜团已经出发，索性偷得浮生半日闲，办好手续开始再岛上闲逛，搜一搜附近的饭店，海滩边踩踩沙子，不辜负眼前的碧海蓝天。<br>
酒店在岛上的一角，出来就是海滩，岸边是一排潜店、饭店，因为没有走车的路，少了很多城市的喧嚣，多一分安宁。晚饭过后回到酒店，意外的发现酒店老板张罗了一桌丰盛的年夜饭，一整只烤猪加上饭菜，满满的摆了一大桌，还请来了所有店里的旅客，很是有新年的气氛，幸福可能就是吃过两顿晚饭之后发现还有第三顿吧。饭过后回到房间叫个马杀鸡，甩掉一天的疲惫。
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="424866472">
C. 酒店老板家里的年夜饭。<br><br>
Day 2<br>
闹钟准时的在4：30响起，身上有些酸痛，但是精神很好.收拾东西沿着海慢慢走到潜店，天色阴暗，一路上并没有多少人，大概是宿醉未醒。潜店门口聚集着一群懒懒散散的人，都是为了去看长尾鲨菜起的这么早，聊了两句才知道，原定的潜导跨年喝多了，还没起床，要临时换人，又见到了新buddy S，一起去检查装备。之前潜导介绍过，长尾鲨比较害羞，下水不能带手电，连Gopro都要调成静音模式。装备一如既往的没有问题，只等人到齐就可以出发，在这个2019年清晨的早上，一眼望到海中，黑洞洞的。<br>
长尾鲨的潜点Monad Shoal不远，启程不多时就要开始整理装备，虽然有将近半年没下水了，手法还是很熟练的。下水时天依然时蒙蒙亮，顺着船头的绳子整齐的下水，到水底是少量的珊瑚和沙地，朝外海的方向游十几米出现明显的断层，水深也由10米开始慢慢下降，到30米左右又是一片平缓的地带。<br>
这时候天也慢慢亮了，虽然不能完全照亮水底，在远处已经可以模糊看到地势，并不是深不见底，背靠断崖，眼前忽明忽暗的地方便是长尾鲨触摸的所在，一行人按照潜导的指示，一字排开，跪在水底的沙地上，等待他们出现。水流并不大，仍有人前后摇摆，保持姿势，既不能被水流带到更深处，也要防止到处乱踢把水搅浑，没有多久，长尾鲨出现在眼前，少则一只，多则3-4只来来回回，体型大小长相都差不多，也分不清谁是谁。大家拍照都很守规矩，没有各种滴滴的响声。由于一直跪在沙地上，不能四处游动，拍照的角度很是有限，只盼长尾鲨游的近一点，停留的时间长一点。<br>
在30米深，免减压时间本身就不长，又要时刻留神深度兼顾拍照，很快就到了升水时间。潜导也很有经验，利用剩下的气有带我们去了回城路上另一个长尾鲨观察点，只有不到20米，剩气在100bar左右。同样的跪姿看了有十几分钟，开始最后升水，12米停1分钟，再5米3分钟，结束了在妈妈岛的第一潜。上了岸才发现，27度的水温下待40分钟依然瑟瑟发抖。作为一个怕冷的人早已习惯了这种情况，果断开始避风、吃点心、喝热茶的保暖三部曲，没想到回去时候海上的浪更大了，船身一晃，热水洒在湿衣上，一下暖和了许多，恍然
大悟
，又去接了点热水泼在湿衣上，效果很是明显，至于潜导诧异的眼神默默忽略就好了。<br>
回程路上，侧目望向天海一线的远处，正是日出时分，望着望着不觉的出神了。由于是新年的第一天，回到岛上很多饭店都还是关门的，胡乱找个地方解决了早饭。下午和晚上的潜点都在岛附近，不奢求什么太过惊艳的，只当是刷瓶子好了，夜潜只有我和坡县来的buddy两个人，包船的感觉真好。晚上和几个小伙伴一起约在了某网红的
意大利
餐厅，有披萨、有甜点 、有故事。<br><br>
Day 3<br>
第二天因为人数比较多，早上安排2潜长尾鲨，心血来潮换了高氧下水（其实并没有多大差别），重复了前一天的长尾鲨前，同样的潜点Monad Shoal不同的观察点，开阔的地点让视野更宽广。下午依旧是附近的潜点加上夜潜，比较遗憾当天人数不够，Gato的鲨鱼洞没有去成，明天一早就要启程，只好等到下次来再补上了。<br><br>
*Thresher Shark Divers每天的潜点根据当天天气状况和去的人数来订，早上人多安排两潜长尾鲨，下午要凑够6个人才可以去Gato，也可以选本地潜点，相对灵活。<br>
*餐馆：1. Ging Ging’s 算是小有名气，每道菜的分量都不大，上菜有时候很慢，官方的解释是为了使用最新鲜的食材，有时候要临时去买，所以耽误时间，希望大家理解。。。2. Mabuhey离酒店很近，新年第一天早上为数不多开门很早的店，经济实惠，店周围有很多流浪的小猫。3. Harly BBQ附近，稍远一点的晚间烧烤聚集地。
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="424866913">
D. 潜店/海上，熟悉的风景，大海的气息。
</p>
<div data-seq="424865589" data-index="4" class="article_title _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem">
<h2 class="t9"><span class="_j_anchor">薄荷岛</span></h2>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="424865590">
Day 4<br>
早晨1潜长尾鲨之后恋恋不舍的离开了妈妈岛，先回到宿务市区转去码头乘船，出发到薄荷，全程7个小时。到码头的时候时间尚早，改签提前一个小时，结果又晚点了一个小时。。。一直折腾到10点多到薄荷，不得不称赞一下，某人妈妈岛和薄荷的酒店都选的非常好（还总能找到便宜的机票），房间舒适离海近又不吵闹。海边的布局和妈妈岛类似，主要路段可以走车，深入海滩之后路到尽头，再往前全靠步行，主路夜生活，海边确相对安静，适合不同需求。<br></p>
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="424867266">
E. 酒店边的餐馆Mabuhey，每家餐馆都有烤猪，和总喜欢趴在别人腿上的猫总。
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/4A/E0/wKgBEFxUYzuAK8seAAWtMDzPczk80.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/4A/E0/wKgBEFxUYzuAK8seAAWtMDzPczk80.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/4A/E0/wKgBEFxUYzuAK8seAAWtMDzPczk80.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="424867332" alt="">
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="424867335">
F. 妈妈岛羞涩的长尾鲨。<br><br>
Day 5, 6 <br>
一天
巴黎
卡萨，一天
纳帕
兰。 可能是季节的原因吧，雨水比较多，水下没有想象中的
诗巴丹
级别的惊艳，依旧看到了沙丁鱼风暴和自由潜潜水员风暴。由于总是凑不齐人夜潜，每天都只有三潜，傍晚可以在海边逛一逛，非常悠闲。
</p>
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/43/F2/wKgBZ1xUY2eABglIAAvQNH2YJck42.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/43/F2/wKgBZ1xUY2eABglIAAvQNH2YJck42.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/43/F2/wKgBZ1xUY2eABglIAAvQNH2YJck42.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="424867442" alt="">
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/43/F3/wKgBZ1xUY2iACvDFAAss1yXDv-c06.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/43/F3/wKgBZ1xUY2iACvDFAAss1yXDv-c06.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/43/F3/wKgBZ1xUY2iACvDFAAss1yXDv-c06.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="424867443" alt="">
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/43/F3/wKgBZ1xUY2mAKRy-AAVN17n1C_075.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/43/F3/wKgBZ1xUY2mAKRy-AAVN17n1C_075.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/43/F3/wKgBZ1xUY2mAKRy-AAVN17n1C_075.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="424867444" alt="">
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="424867448">
G.
薄荷岛
的海景，Turdis餐馆。<br></p>
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:382px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/27/2E/wKgED1xUY4SAL4K2ACOsmB046Sk56.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/27/2E/wKgED1xUY4SAL4K2ACOsmB046Sk56.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/27/2E/wKgED1xUY4SAL4K2ACOsmB046Sk56.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="424867610" alt="">
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:382px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/27/2E/wKgED1xUY4SAOCuHACm8SkEVadk80.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/27/2E/wKgED1xUY4SAOCuHACm8SkEVadk80.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/27/2E/wKgED1xUY4SAOCuHACm8SkEVadk80.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="424867611" alt="">
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="424867614">
G. 沙丁鱼和某鱼风暴（Gopro渣画质lol）。<br><br>
*餐馆：1. Turdis Place酒店边上的小店，经济实惠味道也不错，可以放开吃，去的时候人不多。2. Pyramid 晚上6点开始自助餐，合RMB60来块钱，比较划算，第一波过后就没有什么吃的了，周围比较热闹。<br><br>
Day 7<br>
几天的旅行一转眼就过去，才发现已经到了返程的日子，上午懒散的在海边逛了一圈又一圈，不时找个地方望着大海发呆，放空自己。由于是晚上的飞机，下午坐船回到宿务码头时间尚早，天刚见黑。抽空去看了码头边上Fort San Pedro，
西班牙
人400多年前修的一座的防御工事，规模不大，在历史上确有着重要的战略意义，两层楼，上面的一层视野很好，远处东南方向隐约能看到码头熙熙攘攘的景象。如今早已远离战事，外面改造成广场，四处是摆摊的小贩和游荡的人群，和工事内幽静的氛围反差很大。一圈走下来天已全黑，广场上灯火通明。
</p>
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/4B/0E/wKgBEFxUY76AZuLfAAzaTEDfwac32.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/4B/0E/wKgBEFxUY76AZuLfAAzaTEDfwac32.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/4B/0E/wKgBEFxUY76AZuLfAAzaTEDfwac32.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="424867786" alt="">
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:906px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/44/06/wKgBZ1xUY7-AO1cRAAmC5jeDoWE03.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/44/06/wKgBZ1xUY7-AO1cRAAmC5jeDoWE03.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/44/06/wKgBZ1xUY7-AO1cRAAmC5jeDoWE03.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="424867787" alt="">
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:906px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/44/07/wKgBZ1xUY7-ATMfSAAnb8SpV98c63.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/44/07/wKgBZ1xUY7-ATMfSAAnb8SpV98c63.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/44/07/wKgBZ1xUY7-ATMfSAAnb8SpV98c63.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="424867788" alt="">
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="424867792">
H. 傍晚的Fort San Pedro。
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<div data-seq="424865608" data-index="5" class="article_title _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem">
<h2 class="t9"><span class="_j_anchor">后记</span></h2>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="424865609">
第一次来
菲律宾
，虽然没有深度游，却已经深深的不能自拔：潜水、海滩风景中规中矩，安宁的气氛格外吸引人，少了汽车和热门景点那的喧闹，淳朴的民风，随处都能和你聊两句的村民，成为了这次旅行中的亮点，深以为值得再来一游。美中不足的是buddy突然有事，结果变成一个人的旅行，停笔之时已经有了消息，倍感欣慰，只怨时间不凑巧。回想起2018，发生了太多没想到的事情，林林总总，希望2019少一些波澜。愿早日再相见。
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