埃及：手绘埃及 | 沙与海中的奇迹，我的流浪者之歌
<h5 class="title5" id="102156959">分携如昨</h5><div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497945349" data-likeid="497945349|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497945349" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497945349|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
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<p>世间万物，不管多美，总会消逝，无论是坚固的岩石还是变化的大气，无论是一个人还是所有人，我们无法留住永恒，我们只能真实地看到现在，这些会储存在我的大脑里，与记忆相连。</p>
<p>我不是一个怀旧的人，大部分的时候都是想着当下和未来，在自己狭小的天地里做着堂吉诃德。每个人的生活都有最不尽如人意的那面，且无法被分担，这就是为什么世界上会有孤独这种东西的存在。想起一些人对我说过的话，仍旧会感到悲愤与不甘、委屈与羞耻。</p>
<p>旅行成为了我对抗世界的一种方式，途中产生很多想法灵感，那是我在原本一成不变的都市上班族生活所无法获得的。有人说过一个人失去音讯只有两种原因，要么就是过得太好，要么就是过得不好，我还没有失去音讯，所以不算好也不算坏。细数去日，我还是幸运的，曾路过深不可测的低谷，懂得了不爱之慧，在情感的部分，尽管有难以启齿的软弱，时常觉得自己幼稚，愚蠢，有通过努力也无法克服的缺陷，每一天对自己说很多遍我真的过得很好，说得多了就好像真的会变成事实。</p>
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<p>——这篇游记搁置已久，期间我的世界悄无声息的被颠覆，就好像站在汹涌人群里，手中的行李散落了一地，可是我又必须低下头一件一件的捡起，装进箱子收拾心情。以今日心情写昨日旅途光景，已经是我所能掌握的最后纪念。</p>
<p>写下这些的时候，我已经下决心和过去道别，18年实在不是一段顺遂的时光，雪爪鸿泥，坏壁旧题，去日虽留痕，来日却方长，心症久病成医，记不清到底是哪天，突然再次对世界充满勇气，背叛执念疯魔的自己，重新做回自由赤子。</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="102156869">手账</h5>
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<p>关于手绘部分</p>
<p>画材工具</p>
<p>水彩颜料：mg和史明克分装都有 ，后期才开始用史明克，和我一样买不起正装的爱好者们可以考虑分装。</p>
<p>水彩笔：最贵的笔应该是阿尔瓦罗的红胖子0#，买的尺寸稍大了，其他的都是不同的圆头水彩笔。</p>
<p>水彩纸：最便宜的宝虹，我是丫鬟命吧，昂贵的阿诗的纸画了两张还是爱不起来，画纸还是选择适合自己的吧。</p>
<p>绘画基础：</p>
<p>高中是艺术生，画画是从小的爱好，小时候也学过几年的国画。画画主要是为了取悦自己，记录下旅行的所见所闻所感。没有绘画的基础的朋友可以从临摹开始入门，画多了自然会培养出感觉来。</p>
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<em class="name">黑白沙漠</em>
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<em class="name">吉萨省</em>
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<em class="name">吉萨省</em>
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<em class="name">开罗</em>
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<em class="name">开罗</em>
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<h5 class="title5" id="102157044">开罗 | 时间怕了金字塔</h5>
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<p>—— “世界上历史最悠久的国家之一”。</p>
<p>七千年前伟大的古埃及文明在这片土地诞生，神秘的魔咒勾引世人一探究竟。</p>
<p>从小在《尼罗河上的惨案》、《木乃伊》系列等影视作品的耳濡目染下，金字塔、法老、魔咒、木乃伊、尼罗河、沙漠、神庙……这些属于 埃及 的标签，囊括了我对这个古国的所有认知。黄色风沙中的金字塔兀自巍立，太阳与河流共同滋养下古代文明，今生和来世的奥秘无人真正知晓。</p>
<p>在埃及的旅行，始于九月，去之前还是感到不安忐忑，尽管已经自由行去过十几个国家，但是埃及是我感到最不安的一个，遥远的非洲，阿拉伯国家，不稳定的局势和糟糕的治安，但还是必须要去，毕竟机票已买，想起18年因为种种意外而没去成的地方，遂愈发的迫不及待。</p>
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<p>▼ 开罗 </p>
<p>——“居然坐了十五个飞机的火车……”一下飞机小鱼就开始胡言乱语，第一次体验沙特航空，果然是沙漠国家连飞机以及飞机上的毯子都是沙子的颜色。</p>
<p>开罗是满眼黄色的城市，色调相当统一，沙色的道路，黄色的土色的建筑，疾驰的车辆笼罩在是滚滚的烟尘之中。</p>
<p>从小的模糊的概念里，沙漠＝炎热=干旱， 埃及 95%的土地都是沙漠，虽然已经不是埃及一年中的最热的月份，却已经晒得我睁不开眼，大地曝光过度，曾去过空气质量最差的德里，而此刻开罗也不相上下吧。</p>
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<p>▼ 吉萨 </p>
<p>住在距离开罗80公里的吉萨，因为头一晚并没有订到想去的卫报旅社，所以临时定了一家还在装修的新店，有一个露台可以看到金字塔，</p>
<p>——“天哪，这么近！法老晚上会不会给我托梦，告诉我宝藏的入口……”</p>
<p>夜幕下斯芬克斯和身后几何轮廓惊现眼底，总能感到透露着隐隐的诡异，蕴藏着不可描述的神秘力量。</p>
<p>臆想终究和亲临其境不同，除了古代建筑神迹的固有印象，真正切实感受地到：当朝光洒到吉萨高原，马蹄声清脆划破静谧的晨晓，骆驼脖子上的铃铛作响，散漫地从你面前走过，时间停止了几秒，或许真的存在平行世界，神选之人无意间跌进裂缝中，会见到千百世前的另一个自己。</p>
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<p>▼金字塔</p>
<p>由于住的很近，第二天步行就可以到金字塔的售票处，傻兮兮的选择了可以进入金字塔内部的联票，里面肯定超酷的！</p>
<p>结果，emmmmm……问我推荐吗？还是建议可以一看究竟，这么好的锻炼机会不要错过（坏笑）。</p>
<p>站在金字塔下 ，才知道原来每一块石头居然这么大，周围是寸草不生的无垠荒漠，这里保存着斯芬克斯（sphinx），也就是众所周知的狮身人面像，和金字塔放在一起，还是比我想象中的略小了些，关于它的未解之谜实在太多了。</p>
<p>“斯芬克斯终于从无法穿透的遗忘阴影中走出来，成为地标。”</p>
<p>——就在和斯芬克斯合影的时候，小公鸡和小鱼被一个阿拉伯小哥骗去拍合影了，结局不出所料，给了钱才能把手机还你。</p>
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497946257" data-likeid="497946257|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497946257" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497946257|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/0105c120006gfsf3mC880_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/0105c120006gfsf3mC880_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<em class="name">吉萨</em>
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<p>正午的时候，感觉所有的水分都被晒蒸发了，在吉萨高原上能看到整个黄沙下的开罗，对！是黄沙！</p>
<p>吉萨金字塔是至今唯一保留的古代世界七大奇迹之一。</p>
<p>三个小尖尖，一家祖孙三代：胡夫、哈夫拉、门卡拉 。尘封已久的黄沙氤氲下的千年未解之谜至今无法破译，埃及的法老们刻意追求不朽，可谁知道真正不朽的是那些承载文明的巨石。人总想妄想来世，古往今来皆是，古埃及人坚信人死后灵魂可以在神的带领下遁入永生，身体被制作成木乃伊，会到下个轮回苏醒，殊不知神界虽好，却不及人间一分精彩繁华。</p>
<p>远方的金字塔巍巍然，尖顶指向天际，远古先人的智慧结晶，经过千年依旧浑然天成，暗藏某种神秘力量，心中不免顿生世界未曾可知之感。</p>
<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497946304" data-likeid="497946304|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497946304" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497946304|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/0104o120006gfsfhyB055_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/0104o120006gfsfhyB055_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497946306" data-likeid="497946306|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497946306" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497946306|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/0106q120006gepykv7194_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/0106q120006gepykv7194_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497946299" data-likeid="497946299|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497946299" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497946299|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0106a120006gepydq46B9_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0106a120006gepydq46B9_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497946300" data-likeid="497946300|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497946300" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497946300|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/0104a120006gft0kuFEF9_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/0104a120006gft0kuFEF9_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497946258" data-likeid="497946258|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497946258" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497946258|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/01059120006gfsml6AD7D_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/01059120006gfsml6AD7D_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497946321" data-likeid="497946321|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497946321" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497946321|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/0104b120006gft2ru7B2F_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/0104b120006gft2ru7B2F_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497946322" data-likeid="497946322|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497946322" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497946322|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/01053120006gft4ix19B1_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/01053120006gft4ix19B1_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497946313" data-likeid="497946313|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497946313" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497946313|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/0105a120006gfthbiF018_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/0105a120006gfthbiF018_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497946310" data-likeid="497946310|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497946310" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497946310|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/01059120006gfterr2861_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/01059120006gfterr2861_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497946314" data-likeid="497946314|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497946314" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497946314|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/01033120006gfth344668_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/01033120006gfth344668_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>▼埃及博物馆</p>
<p>——时间才是历史博物馆唯一的展品</p>
<p>下午的行程去埃及博物馆，位于开罗解放广场附近，是一个上下两层的建筑，整个博物馆可以拍照 ，但也是要额外购买相机票。</p>
<p>埃及博物馆是世界上藏品数量最多的博物馆之一，无数宝藏见证了古埃及的曾经的辉煌和荣耀。是来到开罗一定不能错过的地方之一，尽管规模无法和卢浮宫、大英博物馆、纽约大都会博物馆这些相比。去过卢浮宫的我，当时在一天之内看完也是走马观花。</p>
<p>埃博的藏品十分惊艳，比较推荐的是木乃伊陈列馆，这个是要额外收费的，而且不能拍照，仔细想想相机里要是留下这些的木乃伊的照片也怪吓人的吧。著名的图坦卡蒙的黄金面罩，用纯金依照国王生前容貌打造，镶满红宝石，额上还塑有象征上下埃及统治者的鹰和眼镜蛇。</p>
<p>由于上午的金字塔之行的大量体力输出，博物馆之旅我整个人都在游离，埃及讲解员讲的很好，他的中文听起来略显费劲，可看到人家这么专注的份上，小费一定给的足足的。</p>
<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497946671" data-likeid="497946671|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497946671" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497946671|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/0103d120006ggirhk5195_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/0103d120006ggirhk5195_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497946674" data-likeid="497946674|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497946674" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497946674|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/0106o120006ggkzr2A8CE_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/0106o120006ggkzr2A8CE_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497946692" data-likeid="497946692|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497946692" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497946692|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/0103n120006ggkz4xCC88_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/0103n120006ggkz4xCC88_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>博物馆分为一层和二层，一层主要是前王朝到罗马时期的雕塑作品，第二层是精品区，图坦卡蒙的随葬品也在二层，我们在讲解员的带领下先观看了二层的藏品，等回到一楼的时候，真的很想找个地方坐下休息，这是我见过最满档的博物馆，导致拍什么都避不开人群。也许拥挤就是埃及的另一大特色吧。</p>
<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497946675" data-likeid="497946675|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497946675" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497946675|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0106q120006ggl38p3CA3_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0106q120006ggl38p3CA3_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497946638" data-likeid="497946638|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497946638" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497946638|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/0106m120006ggldc453C7_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/0106m120006ggldc453C7_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/0105v120006gglfahC1A5_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/0105v120006gglfahC1A5_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/0103x120006gglk3nDA5B_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/0103x120006gglk3nDA5B_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497946677" data-likeid="497946677|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497946677" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497946677|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/0104n120006gglnpo5FEB_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/0104n120006gglnpo5FEB_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/0103y120006gglnyy4649_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/0103y120006gglnyy4649_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<h5 class="title5" id="102156897">黑白沙漠 | 是天堂，是地狱，是撒哈拉</h5>
<div class="img" style="width:680px" id="img497948235" data-likeid="497948235|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497948235" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497948235|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/01050120006gjgj713372_R_800_10000_Q90.png?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/01050120006gjgj713372_R_800_10000_Q90.png">
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</div>
<p>今天起开始流浪吧！</p>
<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497948342" data-likeid="497948342|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497948342" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497948342|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/01061120006gjkpqj1301_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/01061120006gjkpqj1301_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>是神、是魔鬼，是天堂，是地狱，是撒哈拉！</p>
<p>▼黑白沙漠</p>
<p>沙漠的行程从当地沙漠向导那里定的，向他定的行程，两天一夜，一早就有小面包车来酒店接我们，往撒哈拉的方向一直开。</p>
<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497948534" data-likeid="497948534|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497948534" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497948534|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/0104f120006gjzg4m926D_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/0104f120006gjzg4m926D_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/0100s120006gjz4700AC8_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/0100s120006gjz4700AC8_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/0100y120006gjzmr159F9_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/0100y120006gjzmr159F9_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/0101f120006gjzvvt46F2_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/0101f120006gjzvvt46F2_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/0101h120006gjzzon7BB8_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/0101h120006gjzzon7BB8_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/01024120006gk025vE463_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/01024120006gk025vE463_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/0104t120006gk090r1162_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/0104t120006gk090r1162_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/0105g120006gk0as4CD08_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/0105g120006gk0as4CD08_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/0101m120006gk0izkE043_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/0101m120006gk0izkE043_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497948539" data-likeid="497948539|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497948539" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497948539|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0102i120006gk0r6i2E0D_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0102i120006gk0r6i2E0D_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/0102j120006gk0rnm7CE9_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/0102j120006gk0rnm7CE9_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>乘坐老旧的四驱车，老司机对无形的路线谙熟于心，沙地行车轻松自如。</p>
<p>——我和小鱼在沙漠里大打一架。</p>
<p>接近撒哈拉，风沙吹面，远离都市，远离繁华，远离生机，极目连绵沙丘。迷失在黑色和白色的处女沙漠，要是有幸能看到海市蜃楼就不虚此行了。</p>
<p>时间在这里静止，千百年前这片沙漠无声存在，千百年后，它仍旧不变，人无法能和自然比，意识瞬息万变，哪有所谓隽永。自然最为公平，有生命的无生命的最终都将归于尘土。</p>
<p>荒漠本一无所有，但它亦知回报给懂它的人绝无仅有的体验。</p>
<p>像是闯进另一颗星球，失去手机信号，找不到任何东西可以证明我们还在地球，安心享受仅此24小时的遁世之乐</p>
<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497948551" data-likeid="497948551|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497948551" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497948551|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/0101h120006gk0uh1A717_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/0101h120006gk0uh1A717_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497948547" data-likeid="497948547|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497948547" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497948547|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/01058120006gk0yjn0780_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/01058120006gk0yjn0780_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/0101w120006gk16wj9403_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/0101w120006gk16wj9403_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/0102i120006gk0ym54DBB_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/0102i120006gk0ym54DBB_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497948553" data-likeid="497948553|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497948553" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497948553|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/0102j120006gk10f40DA6_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/0102j120006gk10f40DA6_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497948549" data-likeid="497948549|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497948549" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497948549|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/0101u120006gk14nfC440_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/0101u120006gk14nfC440_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/0101r120006gk17trDBE0_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/0101r120006gk17trDBE0_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0101u120006gk1a8f21F7_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0101u120006gk1a8f21F7_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/0102x120006gk1gcgF689_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/0102x120006gk1gcgF689_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/0101z120006gk1h184AAF_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/0101z120006gk1h184AAF_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/01065120006gk1jp3F5CF_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/01065120006gk1jp3F5CF_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/01035120006gk1tknE2B6_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/01035120006gk1tknE2B6_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/0104i120006gego0u72B0.gif?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/0104i120006gego0u72B0.gif">
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<p>一个避风的平地上架起火堆，向导们开始制作晚饭，同行的除了我们几人，另外还有三个 中国 留学生，一对 巴西 夫妇。每人一份烤鸡，主食和很多说不上名字的食物，夜幕已经覆盖整个大地了。食毕，围着火堆抽水烟，听向导说之前烤鸡的香味会吸引小狐狸，它会等我们都睡下的时候悄悄到访，我一直期待不已。</p>
<p>今晚，将以天为盖地为庐，席地而睡。</p>
<p>躺在沙地里，满天的繁星，为大放异彩而夙兴夜寐，“你们也在看着我吗，如同我这样的看着你们。”，蜷缩四肢，如同回到母亲的子宫里，星辰陪伴入睡，世界缩成一条水平线，天穹像一张最温柔的毯子，覆盖全身。</p>
<p>concrete.</p>
<p>《山月记》中写道：“我不敢下苦工琢磨自己，就怕有一天有人说我并非美玉，但又心存希冀，终日不甘心与瓦砾为伍，在懦弱的自尊心和自大的羞耻心下化为月下的猛虎。”</p>
<p>因为不确定的自我矛盾，厌世却又纵欲，倦命而贪生，时常盛妆却惨败而归。</p>
<p>今晚星光真美。</p>
<p>这么想的时候，就会明亮起来。</p>
<p>——小公鸡说她看到两颗流星。</p>
<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497948558" data-likeid="497948558|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497948558" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497948558|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/0105y120006gk1vqc82F3_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/0105y120006gk1vqc82F3_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/0102j120006gk1wmq1C6F_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/0102j120006gk1wmq1C6F_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/01060120006gk1zxt2202_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/01060120006gk1zxt2202_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/0102a120006gk1xq8AFDA_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/0102a120006gk1xq8AFDA_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/0103g120006gk22if79C6_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/0103g120006gk22if79C6_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497948567" data-likeid="497948567|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497948567" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497948567|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/0102o120006gk23xd1065_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/0102o120006gk23xd1065_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/0102x120006gk2g51A87B_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/0102x120006gk2g51A87B_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/0106p120006gk2kfxA30E_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/0106p120006gk2kfxA30E_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497948591" data-likeid="497948591|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497948591" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497948591|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/0103i120006gk2ohm793E_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/0103i120006gk2ohm793E_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>夜晚的星辰在清晨逐渐消失，精神开始变得散漫，流浪的我今天真好看。</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/01042120006gk2yci9222_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/01042120006gk2yci9222_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497948594" data-likeid="497948594|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497948594" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497948594|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/0106v120006gk32i0F1D4_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/0106v120006gk32i0F1D4_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<i class="poi_icon05"></i>
<em class="name">黑白沙漠</em>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497948578" data-likeid="497948578|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497948578" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497948578|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/0106z120006gk3e1n4FF5_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/0106z120006gk3e1n4FF5_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
<div class="mask">
<i class="poi_icon05"></i>
<em class="name">黑白沙漠</em>
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</div>
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<p>迷途于白色沙漠，寻找海市之谜，也许有些人天生为流浪而生，实在不必为他人的眼光和俗世的规律的更换自己的轨道。</p>
<p>沙漠的狂风冲淡过去，冲掉回忆的关隘，冥冥之中脑海中一直徘徊着一句话：那个世界说不要就不要了吧。</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="102157009">阿斯旺 | 鳄鱼宝贝小赖皮与砰砰少女心</h5>
<div class="img" style="width:680px" id="img497949300" data-likeid="497949300|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497949300" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497949300|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/0104j120006glqe87239D_R_800_10000_Q90.png?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/0104j120006glqe87239D_R_800_10000_Q90.png">
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</div>
<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497949112" data-likeid="497949112|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497949112" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497949112|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/01049120006glbcdlE08E.gif?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/01049120006glbcdlE08E.gif">
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<p>▼ 阿斯旺 </p>
<p>从开罗坐晚班的飞机到达阿斯旺，走出机场，被来自黑非洲南大门的暖热空气袭面，混在这样的夜风中，时刻提醒着我：</p>
<p>——This is Africa .</p>
<p>下榻的酒店就在尼罗河边，第二天推开窗户就是尼罗河，河水此时是金色的，三角帆船的桅杆微微起伏，在这样的景色中享用早餐，再热再晒也无所畏惧。</p>
<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497949085" data-likeid="497949085|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497949085" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497949085|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/0104c120006glbjpjC78E_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/0104c120006glbjpjC78E_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<i class="poi_icon06"></i>
<em class="name">阿斯旺</em>
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497949193" data-likeid="497949193|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497949193" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497949193|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/0106f120006gletli59E4_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/0106f120006gletli59E4_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<i class="poi_icon06"></i>
<em class="name">阿斯旺</em>
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<p>船行尼罗河，三角风帆摇曳，叫不出名字的水鸟栖息在滩石上，差点被这保护色欺瞒，撑船大叔只会简单的英语单词，但是每次看到动物，都会提醒示意，我们失去了语言，徜徉在暖风中。</p>
<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497949156" data-likeid="497949156|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497949156" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497949156|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/0103f120006gleugh306B_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/0103f120006gleugh306B_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<em class="name">阿斯旺</em>
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<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/0106l120006glevpvBE96_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/0106l120006glevpvBE96_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<em class="name">阿斯旺</em>
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<img data-original="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/0102g120006glf4myC027_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/0102g120006glf4myC027_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<em class="name">阿斯旺</em>
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<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/0103l120006glf1ar5084_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/0103l120006glf1ar5084_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<em class="name">阿斯旺</em>
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<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/0103o120006glf6j7489B_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/0103o120006glf6j7489B_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<i class="poi_icon06"></i>
<em class="name">阿斯旺</em>
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</div>
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<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0100u120006glfd4g7272_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0100u120006glfd4g7272_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<i class="poi_icon06"></i>
<em class="name">阿斯旺</em>
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<img data-original="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/0100s120006glf9f71AAC_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/0100s120006glf9f71AAC_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<em class="name">阿斯旺</em>
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<img data-original="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/0106m120006glf6naD93B_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/0106m120006glf6naD93B_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<i class="poi_icon06"></i>
<em class="name">阿斯旺</em>
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<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/0103k120006glf00xDBDA_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/0103k120006glf00xDBDA_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<em class="name">阿斯旺</em>
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<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/0106p120006glfcto28DA_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/0106p120006glfcto28DA_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<em class="name">阿斯旺</em>
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<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/01013120006glwk7iDDC9_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/01013120006glwk7iDDC9_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497949212" data-likeid="497949212|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497949212" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497949212|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/0106s120006glffek0315_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/0106s120006glffek0315_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<em class="name">阿斯旺</em>
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497949199" data-likeid="497949199|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497949199" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497949199|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/0106l120006glfjt02AC7_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/0106l120006glfjt02AC7_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<em class="name">阿斯旺</em>
</div>
</div>
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<div class="img_blk">
<img data-original="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/0104u120006glbczq313D.gif?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/0104u120006glbczq313D.gif">
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<p>乘坐尼罗河上的帆船前往努比亚村，当初做行程的时候最感兴趣的正是这里，因为少女风是我一直钟爱的风格！</p>
<p>在古代，努比亚曾是个独立的小王国，如今这些活在 埃及 土地上的少数民族是原始部落的后裔，仍然保持着与众不同的部落文化。一种不言而喻的神秘感就这样一直吸引着我，想对它一探究竟。闻名不如亲自前往。</p>
<p>刚下船，一度以为来到了一座大型幼儿园，五颜六色的房子外墙和装饰，色彩饱和度极高，在一片沙坡上尤为眨眼，连同这里的骆驼都是儿童风装扮。</p>
<p>船夫大叔正是这个村里的努比亚人，他先到我们去了他家，同样画满了幼幼风的室内彩绘，一墙的动物标本，他和妻子还豢养好几只鳄鱼，原本是尼罗河一霸的猛兽，被驯服成了宝贝小赖皮，也许有天它们也会成为女人昂贵的名包，不由倒吸一口凉气。</p>
<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img497949213" data-likeid="497949213|3960543" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="497949213" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="497949213|13930015" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/0106v120006glfm6hACCD_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/0106v120006glfm6hACCD_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/01001120006glfnb6BBBE_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/01001120006glfnb6BBBE_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/01041120006glfocfE49A_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/01041120006glfocfE49A_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/01044120006glfqlc7492_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/01044120006glfqlc7492_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/0106t120006glft7m6928_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/0106t120006glft7m6928_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/01049120006glfx9cAF16_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/01049120006glfx9cAF16_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/0101a120006glfxj97202_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/0101a120006glfxj97202_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/0101c120006glfz0tC974_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/0101c120006glfz0tC974_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/0103u120006gli21w766A_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/0103u120006gli21w766A_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/01054120006gliela8254_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/01054120006gliela8254_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>暂别船夫大叔，沿着小街，随处可见琳琅满目的手工艺品、服饰、首饰、雕刻、香料……嘴巴嘟嘟的骆驼太可爱了，街角的陶罐是为路人提供饮用水，在室外40摄氏度的高温下，陶罐里的水居然是凉凉的，惊呼神奇之余也感受了一番当地人的热情友好。</p>
<p>整个村子最有名的就是两家酒店，一家就是岸边的kotodool，另外一家名字我已经记不得了，如果在阿斯旺待的时间够长，完全可以在村里住一晚。努比亚村就像一个彩色的大儿童王国，努比亚人他们有着自己独特的语言和文化，一直保存至今，但却没有文字，仅靠口口相传而一脉相承，也是令人惊叹不已。</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="102157025">尼罗河 | 游轮漂流，神庙别走</h5>
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<p>在努比亚村只待了一个上午就匆忙赶往尼罗河沿岸的游轮，由于提前定的船票，没有亲眼见过船长什么样对这次的预订相当失望，一排崭新漂亮的游轮都不是我们所要乘坐的，最后那只破旧老游轮才是我们接下来三天的栖身之所，而且由于我们的到达比较晚，几个房间环境差强人意，小公鸡一度不满到与游轮前台强烈要求换房。</p>
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<p>傍晚的时候，游轮到了Kom ombo神庙，位于尼罗河东岸的山丘上。日落金山，果然是游览神庙最棒的时刻，断壁残日，罅隙靡照，古老宗教的神音依稀回荡巨大石柱之间，斜影长地。</p>
<p>不同于一般的神庙，这是埃及唯一的一座双神庙，左边供奉鹰头太阳神兼战神荷鲁斯（Harus），右边是鳄鱼头的肥沃之神索贝克（Sobek），从墙绘浮雕看到古代埃及日历和法老向诸神祭祀的场景，我喜欢鳄鱼神，凶残神力惊人，同时也是亲切的守护者，一日之内看到活的鳄鱼，又在这里看到了鳄鱼的壁画。鹰头神荷鲁斯代表天空，在努比亚村手上画的海娜图案原来就是壁画上的荷鲁斯之眼，代表着智慧，传说荷鲁斯以左眼为代价杀死了杀父仇人，为了复活自己的父亲又献出了自己的右眼，荷鲁斯之眼也意味牺牲和重生。</p>
<p>浮雕太过精美以至于真的很想拿本速写本在这里画上一天，站在远古的遗迹前，想着这个世界乃至宇宙到底还有多少无尽的未解之谜。</p>
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<p>游轮离岸，登上甲板，神庙远去，抬头望天，千年之前的人们望的也是同片夜空吧。信仰也许等同一种自我催眠，超过理解能力范围，感到矛盾不解，仰赖神的力量化解。作为人过好眼下的生活已经实属难得，没有解决的办法时候，就用大道理催眠自己，大家都一样吧。</p>
<p>点上一杯冰可乐，躺在船顶的沙滩椅上，任由音乐和尼罗河呼呼的风声麻痹耳朵。</p>
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<p>“我还没想好今天要干嘛……”</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0102p120006gpznsb1C9C_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0102p120006gpznsb1C9C_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<h5 class="title5" id="102157236">卢克索 | 晒到昏古七，墙有话要说</h5>
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<p>离开罗七百公里的卢克索，城市千年古都底比斯，阿拉伯的征服者把它改成了现在的名字卢克索，意为“一百个大门的宫殿群”。</p>
<p>卢克索全程最热的地方，十月的天气在这里丝毫感觉不到一丁点的凉意，烈日晒得人欲死，昏沉、懒散。很难理解法老们为什么要把都城和王陵建在这里。</p>
<p>帝王谷位于底比斯最高峰的深处，六十座陵墓中，沉睡着古埃及第十八到二十王朝六十多位法老们和他们的子孙，山谷看起来人迹罕至，甚至于毫无生机，尽管如此也阻挡不了盗墓者的劫掠。其中最值得参观的主要陵墓有图坦卡蒙墓、拉美西斯三世及六世墓、塞提一世墓，游客可以在当中任选三个墓，图坦卡蒙的是需要另外付费的，不在自主选择范围内。</p>
<p>它也是帝王谷中唯一一座没有被盗的墓穴，难以置信小小的三间墓室却能装满整个埃及博物馆的半层楼，留下图坦卡蒙的木乃伊留在墓中，只看得到头部和肩膀的部分，试想，如果法老们的陵墓没有被盗，这些藏品将多么惊人！</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/0100u120006gqztqe5AB1_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/0100u120006gqztqe5AB1_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>通往帝王谷的路上，看到两座巨大的岩石雕像——门农巨像，也成为“哭泣的门农”，由于地震导致眼睛部分出现了裂缝，风吹过发出呜呜声，但是后来经过罗马人的修复，它再也不哭了。</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/0105x120006gr9ko43F3D_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/0105x120006gr9ko43F3D_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/01060120006gr9nwx4BB3_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/01060120006gr9nwx4BB3_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/0102v120006gr9p1kF4AE_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/0102v120006gr9p1kF4AE_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>▼哈特谢普苏特神庙</p>
<p>也被称为女神庙，通往神庙的阶梯毫无遮蔽物，走这条路需要直面烈日的勇气。</p>
<p>神庙一共为三层平台，精美绝伦的壁画记录了女王执政时埃及与邻国商贸往来的空前盛况，以及祭祀的场面。哈特谢普苏特是个特别女人，埃及的唯一女法老，在位功绩可与中国的武则天媲美。她身着男子的服装，戴上象征男性的假胡须，声称自己是太阳神阿蒙之女。想来，她不可一世地站在权力的山顶，也必定经历了一场场波橘云诡的宫廷爱恨情仇</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0104e120006gr9rjdFE64_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/0104e120006gr9rjdFE64_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>双手抱胸的雕像似乎在等待某种神力的召唤。</p>
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<p>▼卡纳克神庙</p>
<p>我们在卡纳克神庙门口遇到一个埃及妹子做向导，她会讲中文，虽然不是很流利，但是听得懂，烈日下几乎没有可以遮阴的地方，眼见她汗水渍着衣服， 开始由衷佩服生活在热带沙漠气候的人类。</p>
<p>一座又一座的塔门，卡耐克神殿一共有十道塔门，它们在现世是保护人们的圣所，通往来生的路上，死者的灵魂也要经过这一道道门，主殿有十分壮观的柱子，柱身和墙壁上满是雕刻和象形文字铭文，图特摩斯三世早就知道，有一天他的丰功伟绩会让成千世人每日观赏知晓。</p>
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<p>神庙中的这座方尖碑是女法老哈特谢普苏特女王所立，古 埃及 文字的研究者译得碑上文字：</p>
<p>“她为她的父亲阿蒙——两片土地王座之主，建造她的纪念物，为他用南方的坚硬花岗石建造了两个大方尖碑，它们的表面镀上了全世界最好的金子。当太阳在它们之间升起时，从尼罗河的两岸看去，它们的光芒照耀着大地。”</p>
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<p>▼卢克索火车站</p>
<p>从卢克索返回开罗坐的过夜火车，火车站是没有几号站台的，靠的都是直觉，过了火车的到达时间，我们要坐的那班依旧没来，问了卖汽水的大叔不下三次，他告诉我们在这里等就对了。过了点终于到了一班车，我坚信这就是我们的那班，被检票员大叔再一次拦下，似懂非懂意思下一班。我被这不守时的火车气到跳脚，汽水都喝空三瓶，最终火车大概晚点了半小时，不知这是常态还只是我们运气不佳。</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="102157251">重返开罗 | 世界万德福wonderful</h5>
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<p>到开罗的清晨，我们在火车上睡了一夜，虽说是卧铺，但是除了车站，大脑处于不分东南西北的混沌，幸亏车站的工作人员帮助才顺利回到吉萨，一开始总是害怕所有的阿拉伯人，警觉的像大草原的食草动物，拒绝一切真假套路，在拒绝同时其实也误会了一些善意。</p>
<p>——离开开罗短短几天，竟也开始想念。</p>
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<p>萨拉丁城堡</p>
<p>最初的建立是为了抗击十字军的东侵，城堡的主题建筑是穆罕穆德阿里清真寺，也是城堡中的最高点，即使我没有信仰，也被素净静穆的清真寺所折服，进入内部是需要脱鞋子的，室内铺着醒目的鲜红色地毯，除了游客，也有当地人前来祈祷，正当我们感受到信仰的力量，一位黑袍少妇居然要求和我们合影，脸上笑嘻嘻“three、two、one”，心里却倍感意外。</p>
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<p>▼悬空教堂</p>
<p>我一直天真的以为悬空教堂是悬浮在半空的，实则并非如此，其实是教堂本堂悬吊在底部的过道上。</p>
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<p>▼哈利利市场</p>
<p>逛集市的意义大于购物本身，这里都是狭窄的石板路，商业氛围有点浓郁，金器银器闪闪发亮，水烟用具、手工艺品、阿拉伯特色的地毯和陶器以及各种纪念品琳琅满目，如果不是恰巧跟着其他的旅行团队伍，很容易迷路，要买些东西记得一定要讨价还价，而且多逛几家，会发现每家店的东西 大同小异。</p>
<p>阿拉伯老板们总是眯着眼微笑，背后是精明的商人头脑，他们看到黄皮肤的中国人，会格外热忱,眼睛发光，“Chinese？”小公鸡在微笑的光头爷爷的几轮轰炸下，老老实实地买了几块看不懂的废铁，不不不，也许真是有趣的宝贝吧。</p>
<p>逛累了就在街头 中东 特色咖啡店抽个水烟品尝阿拉伯的咖啡，我在 埃及 喝得最多的还是可乐，大夏天的满脑子都是拉环“呲啦”声，冒着冷气的白烟，和咕咚咕咚下咽的爽感。</p>
<p>有名的几家香精店被顾客为的水泄不通，本想买点带回国，奈何输给了拥挤的人群。</p>
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<p>在酒店看到了一场苏菲舞，在开罗看苏菲舞最好的去处就是固力宫，但是我们在酒店看到的也很精彩，男性舞者穿着彩色的裙子，不停的旋转旋转。</p>
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<p>之前在沙漠之行认识的几位在埃及留学的中国小哥哥，我们约在开罗面基，晚上还带我们去尝了埃及有名的海鲜餐厅fish market 以及中国人开的火锅店，虽然不能和国内相提并论，但是能吃到就已经感动得痛哭流涕，感谢这位小哥哥！</p>
<p>——埃及总体来说并不是一个安全系数很高的地方，如果不是认识了他们，我们也不太可能会大晚上还在街头游荡，更不可能领略一番夜幕下的开罗。</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="102157135">亚历山大 | 过敏荷鲁斯之眼，地中海嫁衣</h5>
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<p>▼亚历山大 </p>
<p>包车定了亚历山大一日游，距离开罗大约4小时车程，这几天手上的海娜一直过敏，痛痒和灼热感越来越严重，据说是这里的海娜成分不同于东南亚和国内的，而我天生又是过敏体质。画在手上的图案是荷鲁斯的眼睛，代表智慧，然而我现在痒到想放弃这只手。</p>
<p>为了转移目标，还是看风景吧！</p>
<p>——亚历山大是埃及的名城大港，比起开罗的烟尘欺面，实在舒服多了，曾经这里也是盛极一时的都城，拥有美丽沙滩、海堤和建筑名胜，最初对这个城市的印象来自小时候看的埃及艳后。</p>
<p>印象最深的盖贝依堡垒，传说中的世界七大奇迹之一的亚历山大灯塔的位置，后于1480年毁于地震，永远地沉入海底，奥德赛写过：“现在，滔滔大海中躺着一个岛屿， 法罗——灯塔 ，他们这样称呼它，从它近旁的良湾里，航船剪破大海。”</p>
<p>心无所思地聆听海风声，时不时有海鸥划过，岬角尾端的灯塔和想象中的风景出乎意外的一致，海风拂过，声音轻柔。海上蒙着一层绵绵的灰云，“像灯塔一样的孤独”，我不觉得灯塔是孤独的，它只是平静，且沉默。</p>
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<p>流落街头的猫咪随处可见，从它们脏乱的毛发和瘦弱的身躯来看，它们的日子似乎艰难，小公鸡看到这些可怜的小东西秒变低龄女孩，恨不得一只只的全部带回国。</p>
<p>找一家亚历山大图书馆附近的咖啡店，时值学生们放学，店里几乎座无虚席，</p>
<p>被安排到窗边的小桌，看着人群来往，络绎纷纷。</p>
<p>这里依旧是十分悠闲的小巧场所，时间不知不觉中流逝。</p>
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<p>被温柔的海风包围，在城堡里的小窗看到目之所及的海的尽头。</p>
<p>明明拥有超过自己想象的明亮和力量，把该走的路继续走完，那些没有完尽的关系，只要往前走，它会有自动完尽的一天。</p>
<p>人生、活着，这样的字眼过重，愚蠢轻狂如我，尚没有资格高谈阔论，只能说自己是极其幸运幸福的人，嘴上说着厌世的话，却未曾敢有真正轻待生命的念头。</p>
<p>往日执念太深，好比画地为牢，只要想记得，没有一件事情是真正的过去。海自潮汐，爱自来去。</p>
<p>愿，平静如孩童的沉睡、逝者的墓碑。</p>
<p>白色小鸟划过头顶，沉吟叹息，终于了宽恕自己。</p>
<p>——</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="102157349">关于行程</h5>
<p>▼行程</p>
<p>DAY1 开罗</p>
<p>（吉萨金字塔——埃及博物馆）</p>
<p>DAY2 黑白沙漠（黑沙漠——白沙漠）</p>
<p>DAY3 黑白沙漠（ 白沙漠——开罗——阿斯旺 </p>
<p>DAY4 阿斯旺 （努比亚村——尼罗河游轮——kom ombo神庙）</p>
<p>DAY5 卢克索 （尼罗河游轮——Esna神庙——王后谷——尼罗河游轮）</p>
<p>DAY6 卢克索 （帝王谷——女神庙——卡耐克神庙——晚上过夜火车回开罗）</p>
<p>DAY7 开罗 （ 萨拉丁城堡——悬空教堂——哈茨阿尔清真寺——哈利利市场）</p>
<p>DAY8 亚历山大 （蒙塔扎宫——凯贝特城堡——亚历山大图书馆）</p>
<p>DAY9 回国</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="102157353">Hotel&Restaurant</h5>
<p>开罗：</p>
<p>卫报旅馆</p>
<p>Guardian Guest House </p>
<p>可以说是全开罗金字塔景观最好的旅馆，距离狮身人面像也只有五分钟左右步行，但是越有名就越难订，我们住了一晚，总体性价比还算可以。</p>
<p>斯芬克斯美居酒店</p>
<p>Mercure Cairo Le Sphinx</p>
<p>在开罗的后面几天都住在这家，距离金字塔两公里左右 ，整体环境不错，部分设施有点旧，房间也还算干净，花园可以远远地看到金字塔，晚上还有苏菲舞表演，早餐特别优秀，现做的omlete至今让我难忘 。</p>
<p>阿斯旺 ：</p>
<p>Isis Hotel</p>
<p>酒店就在尼罗河岸边，如果不是招牌，几乎以为这是个河边公园。花园风光旖旎，窗户可以看到清楚尼罗河，早餐很一般，种类比较少，我大概就喝了杯果汁，带了两块饼干就上船领略尼罗河了。</p>
<p>阿斯旺 —— 卢克索 </p>
<p>住的是尼罗河游轮，包食宿，一人一晚80美金，到点参观神庙，相当于半个旅行团，船到卢克索时，白天参观帝王谷和女王庙等景点，晚上回到游轮过夜。所以卢克索当地的酒店我们并没有住。</p>
<p>卢克索 —— 开罗 </p>
<p>过夜火车，一个大间两张床，可以体验到沙漠快车的感觉，是我住过最干净的火车卧铺了，还有美味的火车便当：炸鸡、薯条、米饭和面包，埃及人真的很喜欢同时吃好几份主食。</p>
<p>Fish Market</p>
<p>全亚历山大最棒的景观餐厅，早在开罗吃过一次，超大的落地窗视野极佳，地中海就在眼皮子底下，海鲜口味凑活，吃第二次并没有其他惊艳的食物，比较推荐炒饭。</p>
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<p>这家餐厅的名字我实在找不到，只知道是在尼罗河的一条船上，最出名的就是烤鸡大餐。</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="102157200">实用信息</h5>
<p>▼签证</p>
<p>行前在网上办的签证，由于办的时候 埃及 办事处出了些乱子，大概一个月的时间才出签，平时的话2-3周就可以出签。也可以选择落地签，同行的另外几位朋友都是落地签，</p>
<p>签证费用25美金，落地后购买，需要准备以下3样东西</p>
<p>1、返程机票</p>
<p>2、四星级以上酒店订单。</p>
<p>3、2000美金及同等价值的货币</p>
<p>▼交通</p>
<p>大交通：</p>
<p>广州往返开罗 ， 沙特阿拉伯航空，来回转机的城市不同，分别是利雅得和吉达。购买时要注意转机的时间，超过多少小时就会要求要办过境签，而这些转机的城市都是沙特阿拉伯的，签证难于上青天。</p>
<p>埃及境内交通：</p>
<p>开罗市区：由于住的近，金字塔步行可达，其他景点有当地玩乐包车的一日游，剩下的就是uber，在 埃及 打车尤其是开罗要小心司机不按标价来，敲竹杠的事也常有发生，Uber打车相对靠谱些也比较推荐。</p>
<p>开罗到阿斯旺段：飞机，埃及航空</p>
<p>阿斯旺到卢克索段：尼罗河游轮，尼罗河岸边停着很多公司的游轮，出发时间和时长略有不同，可现场订。</p>
<p>卢克索市区：打车</p>
<p>卢克索到开罗段：过夜火车，双床包厢卧铺，提供火车便当，炸鸡面包米饭之类的，还是挺丰盛的。</p>
<p>开罗到亚历山大段：包车一日游</p>
<p>▼通讯</p>
<p>网购埃及电话卡沃达丰 套餐97元 28天+2.5GB ，没时间准备的话，在开罗的机场买也是妥妥的。</p>
<p>▼汇率与消费</p>
<p>在埃及使用美金和埃及镑都可以，如果是落地签入境，会要求美金的数额，建议不要把美金都换掉，一半美金一半埃及镑这样比较好，有些地方美金会更方便。埃及的货币成为埃镑，1人民币≈2.5481埃及镑，像开罗这样的城市消费水平和国内二线城市差不多。</p>
<p>▼安全问题</p>
<p>埃及总体并不是很安全，阿拉伯人看到中国女孩子眼睛会发光，跟团会比自由行好一些，强烈不建议女生独自前往，最好同行结伴，晚上最好也不要一个人出行，打车要讨价还价，说好的价格到目的地会变，可以选择uber，在开罗用uber还是挺方便的，骑骆驼最好跟酒店预订，拍照也要小心附近的人套路你，“我知道哪个角度最好，告诉你……”拍完不给钱，手机就不还你了。</p>
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