三分无聊七分好玩，克拉克、马尼拉奇趣见闻
<div data-seq="948402940" data-index="1" class="article_title _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem"><h2 class="t9"><span class="_j_anchor">旅行提示</span></h2>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="948402787">
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交通部分<br><!-- <img src='h' style='width:hpx;' />--><img src="https://images.mafengwo.net/images/i/face/daily_v2/43.png">
机场<br>克拉克
很小，从机场出来，打出租、用Grab叫车、坐摩托或者吉普尼都可以。建议Grab，明码标价。<br><!-- <img src='h' style='width:hpx;' />--><img src="https://images.mafengwo.net/images/i/face/daily_v2/43.png">
Grab<br>
这边的Grab不是很灵光，常遇到无人接单。<br><!-- <img src='h' style='width:hpx;' />--><img src="https://images.mafengwo.net/images/i/face/daily_v2/43.png">
大巴<br>
往返
马尼拉
与
克拉克
之间，P2P BUS (Point to Point Bus) 是最合适的交通方案。<br>克拉克
停靠点——机场、SM CITY CLARK<br>马尼拉
停靠点——机场1、2、3航站楼、Robinsons Galleria、Trinoma （MRT EDSA）<br>
----NAIA 1、NAIA 2、NAIA 3<br>
----其中NAIA 1、NAIA 2只能下客，出发要到NAIA 3<br>
更详细信息参见<br>https://www.thepoortraveler.net/2017/12/p2p-bus-naia-clark-airport-schedule/
</p>
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<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="traffic"></i>马尼拉机场T3航站楼
</span>
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<img src="https://images.mafengwo.net/images/i/face/daily_v2/138.png">
货币部分<br>
建议提前2天电话预约后，到
中国
银行兑换货币。
菲律宾
境内可以用银联卡在ATM机取现，收取手续费（200/250比索）及有单笔限额。<br>
----ATM相关详细信息可以在这里查询<br>https://www.kylc.com/upatm/phl.html
</p>
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/BD/BE/CoUBGV35DY6ALbrRAA5X_Yir06I29.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/BD/BE/CoUBGV35DY6ALbrRAA5X_Yir06I29.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/BD/BE/CoUBGV35DY6ALbrRAA5X_Yir06I29.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="948449600" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="shopping"></i>SM City Clark
</span>
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="948449602">
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<img src="https://images.mafengwo.net/images/i/face/daily_v2/140.png">
离境税<br>
从
克拉克
国际机场离境，征收离境税600比索。<br><br><!-- <img src='h' style='width:hpx;' />--><img src="https://images.mafengwo.net/images/i/face/daily_v2/191.png">
饮食部分<br>
如果无法决定吃什么就去Jollibee 吧，价格实惠，味道也行。
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:382px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/AE/26/CoUBGV35ABCAezhRAAebNJLNrVA70.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/AE/26/CoUBGV35ABCAezhRAAebNJLNrVA70.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/AE/26/CoUBGV35ABCAezhRAAebNJLNrVA70.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="948445804" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="traffic"></i>克拉克国际机场
</span>
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/AE/B5/CoUBGV35AGOAEOxdAA19l0-5SE039.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/AE/B5/CoUBGV35AGOAEOxdAA19l0-5SE039.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/AE/B5/CoUBGV35AGOAEOxdAA19l0-5SE039.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="948445959" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="traffic"></i>克拉克国际机场
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="948445806">
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在
克拉克
、
马尼拉
期间吃过2家餐厅，可以推荐一下——<br><br>
1.Angry Crab Restaurant @Clark<br>
主要吃螃蟹，大概150人民币一只，胜在食材新鲜。
</p>
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/AF/AF/CoUBGV35AQGAe8gfAAzmFibl8Jo96.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/AF/AF/CoUBGV35AQGAe8gfAAzmFibl8Jo96.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/AF/AF/CoUBGV35AQGAe8gfAAzmFibl8Jo96.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="948446235" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="food"></i>Angry Crab Restaurant
</span>
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2.CoCo Ichibanya Curry House @Manila<br>
专营咖喱的日式餐厅，食材可以自选以及双拼、多拼，辣度也有5级可选。
</p>
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:680px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B0/04/CoUBGV35ATeAaLtDAA-8DFrMnGE93.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B0/04/CoUBGV35ATeAaLtDAA-8DFrMnGE93.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B0/04/CoUBGV35ATeAaLtDAA-8DFrMnGE93.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="948446305" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="food"></i>Coco Ichibanya Curry House
</span>
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:680px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B0/06/CoUBGV35ATmAXj_vAA7PbXJgNl020.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B0/06/CoUBGV35ATmAXj_vAA7PbXJgNl020.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B0/06/CoUBGV35ATmAXj_vAA7PbXJgNl020.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="948446306" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="food"></i>Coco Ichibanya Curry House
</span>
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<div data-seq="948403741" data-index="2" class="article_title _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem">
<h2 class="t9"><span class="_j_anchor">游记开始</span></h2>
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="948403742">
十一月初，彻骨的寒冷从北方席卷而来，势如破竹。我的老家，中部平原地区，在短暂维持了一小段秋高气爽后，也惶惶然掉进寒冷的漩涡。我则是赶在降温前头，结束了在老家的省亲之旅，回到南方——这里的气候，一如往常闷热，对即将到来严寒毫不知情。在寒流进一步南下之前，我便动身前往
菲律宾
克拉克
，没有准备、没有计划、没有同伴。
</p>
<div data-seq="948403877" data-index="3" class="article_title _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem">
<h2 class="t9"><span class="_j_anchor">失望</span></h2>
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="948403878">
克拉克
的秘密，已被缺乏丰富游记、罕见旅行服务给早早透露出来，我却视若无睹，一心只想着爬火山、开小飞机。<br><br>
这地方因其在珍珠港事件后十几个小时，被日军炸得稀烂而闻名于世。伴其
大名
，还有发展已久的服务产业——既是
安吉利斯
市（Angles）市，也是信徒们心照不宣的天使之城。还剩下什么？皮纳图博火山，自1991年爆发一夜成名，独具特色的火山Tour吸引着各地游客前往体验。<br><br>
对皮纳图博火山，我准备在当地随便找个旅行社拼团，哪知以失败告终。事实上，出发前发过邮件咨询旅行社，得到了只能独立成团且价格昂贵的结果。抵达当地旅行社，依旧无团可拼，一人包团依旧昂贵。至于到
克拉克
飞行俱乐部体验开小飞机，马蜂窝上倒是有中文团。可惜在
克拉克
的那几天，一直都未能凑够6人开团。
</p>
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<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="shopping"></i>SM City Clark
</span>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="950267910">
失败到一塌糊涂的开场。
</p>
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/BE/15/CoUBGV35DeqAPqDiAAkSLQCLXiA16.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/BE/15/CoUBGV35DeqAPqDiAAkSLQCLXiA16.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/BE/15/CoUBGV35DeqAPqDiAAkSLQCLXiA16.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="948449640" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="traffic"></i>克拉克国际机场
</span>
</div>
<div data-seq="948403945" data-index="4" class="article_title _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem">
<h2 class="t9"><span class="_j_anchor">美军基地</span></h2>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="948403946">
两项预定计划未能顺利实施，在
克拉克
的时光反倒自在起来。索性无所事事，不如探索下到底有啥好玩。<br><br>
回顾下
克拉克
的过往，故事感满分——<br><br>
----1898年美西《
巴黎
条约》签订，被
西班牙
殖民统治300多年的
菲律宾
落入
美国
人之手。1902年开始，
克拉克
成为
美国
骑兵聚集地。在美军决定将
克拉克
完全改造成第十三航空队的基地之前，这里一度是
美国
骑兵的放牧区。1919年，
美国
人以“航空先驱”哈罗德·
克拉克
的名字将这里正式命名为
克拉克
。此后，这片群山脚下平坦而开阔的土地日渐忙碌；从运输机到大中型轰炸机，越来越多的空军装备汇聚至此，直至上世纪30年代，这里迅速发展成为
美国
在海外的重要的军事基地。
美国
空军甚至将这个控制着太平洋和
印度
洋之间战略要道的地方称为“海外之家”。<br><br>
在这个陌生的国度，触碰到尘封的历史脉络，是在那个傍晚。<br><br>
那晚在 SM City Clark 吃过饭，溜达时遥见一片雪白，信步走过去竟是成片墓地！还记得「拯救大兵瑞恩」的开场吗，镜头缓缓拉开，大片纯白色墓碑整整齐齐铺陈开，规整又肃穆。展现在我眼前的，正是这样的场景。隔着铁栅栏，白色的墓碑上刻着名字，看不太清，它们朝着远方延伸过去，看不到头。我沿着铁栅栏，一直走到大门处，这里是
克拉克
退伍军人墓地 (Clark Veterans Cemetery) 。<br><br>
在外旅行时，我对激烈的文化冲突异常感兴趣。此时此刻，来自完全不同文化背景的壮阔仪式感，深深震撼到我。赶紧手机翻查下，这里是对外开放的。只是再看门口的告示牌，对外开放时间截至5pm，而那时已经接近5：30pm。<br><br>
在这里要分享下我的经验，在外旅行时，一定要不要浪费旅行者的身份。当地人对来自遥远他乡的旅者，总会有那么一点点区别对待。这个好坏参半啦，不过与当地人互动下也是挺好玩的。我跑到门卫处，里面几位老大哥正百无聊赖地葛优躺在椅上休息。堆上满脸微笑，表达了下希望进去逛一圈，十分钟就出来的请求。然后老大哥戒备地迟疑半秒钟就让我进去了。<br><br>
纸上得来终觉浅，只有亲身去经历，那种感受才直抵真实。穿行其间，整齐的墓碑上，刻着各种不同的名字。墓地很大，石碑很小，石碑规制相同，刻着名字，于是独一无二。
</p>
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:259px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/A7/0D/CoUBGV34-9qAMjYCABJufuOSLas45.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/A7/0D/CoUBGV34-9qAMjYCABJufuOSLas45.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/A7/0D/CoUBGV34-9qAMjYCABJufuOSLas45.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="948442902" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="house"></i>Clark Veterans Cemetery
</span>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="948442904">
拍下一张照片后，我便离去。而与墓地间的缘分，后面还要延续，这个放到后面一点再说，在当时我却是完全没想过。<br><br>
如果说美军墓地的遭遇是基于文化背景的碰撞，后来去到军事基地 (Air Force City) 则是大半个世纪前时空的主题公园式情景再现。虽然人去楼空（营地看起来都被挪作他用）、人烟稀少，昔日繁荣依旧以豪华的躯壳透过时光间隙，保留下部分神采。<br><br>
这里保留了几处飞机遗迹，当做主题公园。不少当地人来这边野餐，还有新人在飞机旁拍婚纱照。绕过飞机遗迹，我的下一站是
克拉克
博物馆 (Clark Museum) ，离得不远，准备步行前往。一路都是高尔夫球场般的环境，绿色缓坡此起彼伏，道路洁净，四周散落着三四层高的军人宿舍、医疗室、军官别墅、俱乐部，还有一处体育馆，貌似还在用，有些穿军装的人在里面活动。
</p>
<div id="_j_photo_948448383" data-seq="948448395" data-pid="948448383" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B7/F9/CoUBGV35B5uAJq0_AA3d6xZ0Z0g36.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B7/F9/CoUBGV35B5uAJq0_AA3d6xZ0Z0g36.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B7/F9/CoUBGV35B5uAJq0_AA3d6xZ0Z0g36.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="948448383" alt="">
</div>
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:906px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B8/01/CoUBGV35B6KAFTTiAA6KFW3JyRc76.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B8/01/CoUBGV35B6KAFTTiAA6KFW3JyRc76.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B8/01/CoUBGV35B6KAFTTiAA6KFW3JyRc76.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="948448387" alt="">
</div>
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:906px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B8/02/CoUBGV35B6OAUmbnAArEClRlbOI65.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B8/02/CoUBGV35B6OAUmbnAArEClRlbOI65.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B8/02/CoUBGV35B6OAUmbnAArEClRlbOI65.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="948448388" alt="">
</div>
<div id="_j_photo_948448392" data-seq="948448404" data-pid="948448392" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:906px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B8/07/CoUBGV35B6iAP87UAAX97uX1dGk79.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B8/07/CoUBGV35B6iAP87UAAX97uX1dGk79.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B8/07/CoUBGV35B6iAP87UAAX97uX1dGk79.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="948448392" alt="">
</div>
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</div>
<div id="_j_photo_948448394" data-seq="948448406" data-pid="948448394" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B8/08/CoUBGV35B6uAUScrAAos70IiQoE71.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B8/08/CoUBGV35B6uAUScrAAos70IiQoE71.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B8/08/CoUBGV35B6uAUScrAAos70IiQoE71.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="948448394" alt="">
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="948448407">
大概是维护得好，大半个世纪过去，这里像是才建不到五六年的样子。这也反映出当年美军的后勤补给有多富有，建起的基地现在看起来并不过时，甚至历久弥新。直到路过一处户外吧台，时光的力量展露无疑。也许当年无数美军官兵在这里喝酒泡妞打架，讨论战事，如今只剩残垣断壁，石板中裸露出锈迹斑斑的钢筋，只能从残存的基本形状里依稀遥想当年旖旎。
</p>
<div id="_j_photo_948448617" data-seq="948448621" data-pid="948448617" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B8/03/CoUBGV35B6SAR1j8ABRv0tG_O0A56.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B8/03/CoUBGV35B6SAR1j8ABRv0tG_O0A56.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B8/03/CoUBGV35B6SAR1j8ABRv0tG_O0A56.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="948448617" alt="">
</div>
<div id="_j_photo_948448618" data-seq="948448622" data-pid="948448618" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:906px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B8/05/CoUBGV35B6aAX-XaAAyU0XH4tzA78.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B8/05/CoUBGV35B6aAX-XaAAyU0XH4tzA78.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B8/05/CoUBGV35B6aAX-XaAAyU0XH4tzA78.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="948448618" alt="">
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<div id="_j_photo_948448620" data-seq="948448624" data-pid="948448620" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:509px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B7/FF/CoUBGV35B6CANDmrAA9cQKvVNOw32.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B7/FF/CoUBGV35B6CANDmrAA9cQKvVNOw32.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B7/FF/CoUBGV35B6CANDmrAA9cQKvVNOw32.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="948448620" alt="">
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="948448625">
--翻查资料得知，这座基地初建于1903年，其后规模逐步扩大，到1930s成为成为
菲律宾
地区最主要的轰炸机和重型轰炸机的起降基地。二战期间，伴随着
菲律宾
的沦陷，这个空军基地也易手给
日本
空军，直到1945年的1月才重新夺回。--<br><br>
--
克拉克
空军基地真正大规模的增长是在冷战时期，又因为
菲律宾
极佳的地理位置，在越战中扮演了极其重要的角色，尤其是军事物资的运送方面。到了80年代，
菲律宾
政府和
美国
方面在基地租借的条件上来来回回的谈判，始终难以达成一致，又加上1991年6月，附近的皮纳图博火山大规模爆发，整个军事基地被火山灰掩埋，
美国
政府最后忍痛将军事基地归还给了
菲律宾
政府。皮纳图博火山大规模爆发后，
美国
人撤走，整个军事基地都被火山灰掩埋，据说最深处厚达6米。
菲律宾
政府发动数以十万计的附近居民将城市重新挖掘出来，条件是未来城市发展时，优先提供就职机会。--<br><br>
本是计划前往博物馆，最精彩的部分却发生在去程的路上，对此我相当满意。慢悠悠晃到博物馆时，差不多快接近闭馆时间（在这边大多数地方5pm就歇业），已然尽兴的我，也没太
大兴
致，就没进去了。<br></p>
<div id="_j_photo_948448628" data-seq="948448630" data-pid="948448628" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B7/FE/CoUBGV35B5-AXXHmABafNh9OClI11.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B7/FE/CoUBGV35B5-AXXHmABafNh9OClI11.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B7/FE/CoUBGV35B5-AXXHmABafNh9OClI11.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="948448628" alt="">
</div>
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B7/FB/CoUBGV35B52AWJS9ABF0NCYOJow29.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B7/FB/CoUBGV35B52AWJS9ABF0NCYOJow29.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/B7/FB/CoUBGV35B52AWJS9ABF0NCYOJow29.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="948448629" alt="">
</div>
<div data-seq="948403984" data-index="5" class="article_title _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem">
<h2 class="t9"><span class="_j_anchor">马尼拉</span></h2>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="948403985">
<br>
前文有提，此行至出发，已经变成一场注定一个人的流浪。尝试过做些计划但未
成功
，也没有约到同伴。<br><br>
不过之所以旅行让人向往，很多时候是因为总能遇到预期之外的美好。出发的那个深夜，在前往机场的地铁上，熟悉的马蜂窝铃声响起，却非推送广告，而是带来意外惊喜。我在某篇马蜂窝游记下的留言或者是看到留言后发出的信息，得到了回复。<br><br>
尽管马蜂窝APP的私信功能用起来极为难受，当时的我却是顾不上这些的。有位小伙伴在两天后抵达
马尼拉
，我们约了如果行程对得上，到时可以结伴游玩。
克拉克
的探索有些单调，于是未在我计划之内的
马尼拉
被安排起来。<br><br>
从
克拉克
前往
马尼拉
非常方便，在
克拉克
机场与
马尼拉
机场之间，有车次频繁的P2P巴士。从
克拉克
出发，除了从机场上车之外，还可以在 SM City Clark 正门处上车。那里有工作人员，不清楚时刻的话，直接问工作人员即可。
</p>
<div id="_j_photo_948448825" data-seq="948448826" data-pid="948448825" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px" data-poiid="9089874">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:906px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/BA/EC/CoUBGV35CoaASv94AAwuSi_untk38.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/BA/EC/CoUBGV35CoaASv94AAwuSi_untk38.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/BA/EC/CoUBGV35CoaASv94AAwuSi_untk38.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="948448825" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="shopping"></i>SM City Clark
</span>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="948448827">
抵达
马尼拉
机场之前，会在
马尼拉
Trinoma 停一下，就在MRT EDSA 站下面。车程大概不到2个小时，一路顺畅，进入
马尼拉
之后才开始堵。这里要说下的是，
马尼拉
的轨道交通MRT和LRT两种中，直观感受是MRT速度极其缓慢。
</p>
<div id="_j_photo_948448780" data-seq="948448781" data-pid="948448780" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px" data-poiid="25211">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:906px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/BA/94/CoUBGV35ChSAYNuqAAyJ1kitaDk38.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/BA/94/CoUBGV35ChSAYNuqAAyJ1kitaDk38.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/BA/94/CoUBGV35ChSAYNuqAAyJ1kitaDk38.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="948448780" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="shopping"></i>SM City North EDSA
</span>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="948448782">
从EDSA站到United Nations 站，全程7公里才6个站的距离，谷歌地图告诉我只需要12分钟，但这MRT列车以慢过路旁行人步行的速度开着，生生花了超过40分钟才到。不知道是那趟列车出现什么故障，还是
马尼拉
MRT本就这般不靠谱。如果轨道交通在你的行程之内，一定要预留出额外的时间，避免这种情况打乱计划！<br><br>
经过漫长的等待之后，到达
马尼拉
，与前文提及的小伙伴碰头。<br></p>
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/BB/63/CoUBGV35CwqAXbzKABMA8eDfFyo254.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/BB/63/CoUBGV35CwqAXbzKABMA8eDfFyo254.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/BB/63/CoUBGV35CwqAXbzKABMA8eDfFyo254.jpg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="948448899" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="house"></i>马尼拉
</span>
</div>
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/BB/63/CoUBGV35CwyAFLFzABaNXwRW07Y327.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/BB/63/CoUBGV35CwyAFLFzABaNXwRW07Y327.jpg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/BB/63/CoUBGV35CwyAFLFzABaNXwRW07Y327.jpg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="948448900" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="house"></i>马尼拉
</span>
</div>
<div data-seq="948406468" data-index="6" class="article_title _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem">
<h2 class="t9"><span class="_j_anchor">酒店惊魂</span></h2>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="948406469">
<br>
临时过来
马尼拉
，在马蜂窝上订了当晚酒店。<br><br>
白天除了太晒，游玩顺利。到晚上吃过晚饭，踩着走路太多发酸的脚抵达酒店，却并未如预期那般，入住、梳洗、躺倒吹空调。前台拿着我的护照查下了，告知没有预定信息，而且房间已满。<br><br>
？？？<br><br>
就在此时一条短信跳进手机——
</p>
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:426px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/A9/5C/CoUBGV34_RWAfjAGAAEB8fWAXZ030.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/A9/5C/CoUBGV34_RWAfjAGAAEB8fWAXZ030.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/A9/5C/CoUBGV34_RWAfjAGAAEB8fWAXZ030.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="948444040" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="house"></i>马尼拉
</span>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="948444042">
已至深夜，累到只想躺倒的我除了心里想骂人还能干嘛……坐下来，打各种客服电话。从马蜂窝到携程两边来回转。短信中留下的联系方式居然是携程的，联系过去他们表示并没有看到取消记录！再联系过去马蜂窝，又表示不知道是什么状况，查询后再回复。然后当然是没有回复的。既然是携程的订单，只能再问携程。花了快半个小时，才帮忙重新订了一个附近的房间。<br><br>
意外的是，多说了一嘴打跨境电话好贵，携程客服竟然在后期的补偿上加了一笔电话费。<br><br>
然而本以为换到另外一间价格更高的酒店是赚到了，大厅装修考究、前台彬彬有礼、门童热情周到……到了房间的我，环顾一圈，呆若木鸡，颈后发凉。
</p>
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