北海道：冬日北海道 | 我们的纯白蜜月之旅，爱在这里起航
<h5 class="title5" id="101025648">问：北海道？答：我愿意！！</h5><p>那天，我们在海边的沙滩上散步；</p>
<p>那时候，我们还是普通的情侣关系。</p>
<p>我问你，如果我们结婚了，</p>
<p>你想去哪里度蜜月啊？！</p>
<p>你说：等结了婚再说呗。远着呢！</p>
<p>我厚着脸皮问：我带你去 北海道 ，你愿意嫁给我吗？</p>
<p>你答：愿意。。。。。。。。吧！！！！</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="101025749">先来段视频热热身吧</h5>
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<h5 class="title5" id="101025750">图片预告 | 纯白的世界里，我们走过的路</h5>
<p>要知道，对于一年只有冬夏两个季节的南方人来说，能看到积雪是多么让人兴奋的，以至于我们对于这趟行程充满了期待。毕竟 北海道 跟《情书》这部电影密不可分，我们俩还特意找了一个晚上重温了一下这部电影，好让我们对 北海道 的期待再拔高一个层次。</p>
<p>不过现实给了我们重重的一锤，往年进入十二月份， 北海道 就开始下大雪，两旁的街道都是满满的积雪。今年却是少见的暖冬，直到十二月下旬，雪还是不多，也没有我们期待已久厚厚的积雪，但毕竟这是我们的蜜月之行，跟天气关系不大，跟对的人来就足够了。</p>
<p>前方一波狗粮来袭：</p>
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<p>第一天来到 小樽 ，并没有遇到想象中的大雪，但一条废弃铁道上的积雪玩得已经让我们高兴得像个孩子。</p>
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<p>小樽 的船见坂，因为一部《情书》而火爆的景点，虽然没有遇到那个送信的邮差，但你就是我现实生活中最美的那个女主角。</p>
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<p>朝里，一个临近海边的小村庄，我们在这里堆起了第一个小雪人，而且和“它”牵手合了张影。</p>
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<p>登别 ，用一场大风雪来迎接我们的到来，也是整趟 北海道 之旅中遇到最大的一场雪，饭都顾不上吃就赶紧拍起来了。</p>
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<p>登别 地狱谷的后山上，游客比较少，一路上都是干净的积雪，我们当然就疯玩起来了，不过我说：嘿，你不能再吃了，不然下次我再也抱不动你了。</p>
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<p>来登别怎么能错过真正的硫磺温泉，必须早晚一泡。回到房间，坐在日式榻榻米上喝一杯绿茶，品一口点心，一天就圆满了。</p>
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<p>下了血本订的一家 洞爷湖 的酒店，果然没有让我们失望，也是整个行程中住的最爽，体验感最好的一家，当然拍照也好看。</p>
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<p>日本 的温泉都是男女分开的，好不容易体验了一次属于两个人的私密泡汤，整个蜜月之行也就完美了。</p>
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<p>刚来 函馆 的那个晚上，是大风加上雨夹雪，在7-11买的透明雨伞没想到成了我们拍照最好的道具。</p>
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<p>都说来了 函馆 ，就一定要品尝这里的海鲜。我们俩花了差不多1000块钱买下了这只帝皇蟹，心在滴血，但口水在流。</p>
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<p>回到 札幌 的时候去了趟 北海道 大学，假装和她谈一场“校园恋爱”。</p>
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<p>北海道 旧本厅舍外有个小湖，这里的鸭子和乌鸦成了“天敌”，相互争抢游客手上的面包，一点都不“害羞”。</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="101025665">在高空上许下的约定</h5>
<p>“老公，老公，快醒一下，你看远处那是 富士山 吗？”</p>
<p>从梦中惊醒的我往窗外瞄了一眼，顿时就精神了，赶紧拿出相机拍下了这张照片。</p>
<p>在我的认知范围内，在 日本 长这个样的是 富士山 无疑了吧！！</p>
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<p>她继续补充道：“你说，我们在飞机上都能这么幸运地看到 富士山 ，是不是给我们什么暗示啊？要不我们结婚一周年就去看 富士山 吧！”</p>
<p>我心想这都能联系上一起，那好吧，我们就暂时许下这个约定。去不去得成，就看缘分吧！</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="101025841">朝里 | 一个浪漫小资的海滨小镇</h5>
<p>现在说到朝里，也许很多人对这个地方已经不陌生了，毕竟每个来到 小樽 游玩的一定不会放过朝里。准确来说，它其实就是一个海边小镇，五颜六色的小房子挨着海边建造，就是因为这样的小资成了我们眼里最美的风景。</p>
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<p>我们第一天来到 小樽 的时候已经是晚上了，所以基本就是吃完东西就回酒店休息，把朝里和 小樽 的行程全部安排在了第二天。</p>
<p>今天的行程就是 小樽 —朝里— 小樽 市区— 札幌 ，这样安排的目的是朝里离 小樽 只有两站的距离，朝里又没有寄存行李的地方，所以一大早就把行李寄存在酒店前台，朝里回来之后就把 小樽 逛一遍，晚上回到 札幌 住，第二天就出发到 登别 。</p>
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<p>朝里是一个小站，所以搭乘JR之前一定要看清楚列车的车次，特急的列车是不停靠朝里站的。</p>
<p>从 小樽 到朝里，只要10分钟的车程，但这一路风景一定不能错过，特别是有一段可以看海的，那感觉就跟 斯里兰卡 的海上火车有点像吧。光顾着看景，都忘记拍照片了，就自行脑补一下吧。</p>
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<p>朝里下车的人不多，从穿着打扮来看，几乎都是国人。走出车站就能看到海边上五颜六色的小房子，整齐划一，来左边跟我一起画个龙，在你右边画一道彩虹，画面太美，没忍住就唱起来了。</p>
<p>有些房子明显就已经废弃了，但有些还住着人，这样每天晚上都能伴着海浪的哗哗声入眠，已经也算是一种享受吧。</p>
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<p>一看到这个铁道口，我就对上了眼，是不是有点在 镰仓 的错觉。反正我是对这样的铁道口有一种执念，一定要等到火车过来拍一张，我才觉得是来过了。</p>
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<p>虽然有点冷，但我们还是坚持等了一趟又一趟的列车才罢休，两个处女座就是这么的固执。</p>
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<p>因为来朝里的游客不多，雪还没来得及化，我们两个看到一点积雪就能high起来，你一脚我一脚就开始“打”起来。</p>
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<p>堆雪人一直都是她的梦想，记得很多次她跟我提起过，如果有机会去到下雪的地方，一定要对一个跟她齐高的雪人。明显这次还是没能完成愿望，毕竟积雪不多，但是迷你版的小雪人还是可以的，于是就诞生了这个还勉强过得去的雪人吧（头发，眼睛，鼻子和手等等这些原来都是路边的野草，创作力还可以）</p>
<p>一做完就兴高采烈地向我展示她的得意作品，有时候南方人的快乐，就这么朴实无华，且简单。</p>
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<p>给她们“母子”两人拍完还不行，他还强烈要求我们三要来个合影。没错，就是这张我们一家三口手牵手的照片了。</p>
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<p>日本 国内对无人机的管控比较严，在市区里是严禁飞无人机的，但既然来到小村庄且比较空旷，我就试飞了一下，想俯瞰一眼这座 临海 小镇的神仙美景。</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/100e1f000001glwx74594_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/100e1f000001glwx74594_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>我们只花了一个上午的时间在朝里，也没有过多地深入了解，只是在海边逛了下，我觉得如果能有多一点时间走进小镇里，应该能发现更多有趣好玩的东西。毕竟，另外一头的 小樽 一直在呼唤着我。</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="101025779">小樽 | 用脚步去丈量美景</h5>
<p>小樽 应该是很多来 北海道 旅行者的必选目的地，毕竟电影《情书》里所刻画的画面和故事情节都太令人向往了。很多时候我们确实会因为一部电影而憧憬着一个地方，一座城市，也许只是电影里一个普通的镜头，一段无关紧要的对白，但就是无缘无故地戳中我们的内心，而无比向往。</p>
<p>出发前，我们在房间里，又重温了一遍电影。</p>
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<p>下飞机的第一件事，就是寻找JR外籍旅客服务处，兑换我们在国内提前买好的JR兑换券（JR怎么坐，后面攻略部分我详细说一下），一切还算比较顺利，毕竟出发前我最担心的就是交通问题，因为 日本 的铁路网络真的太发达了，看着就头大。</p>
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<p>北海道 的冬天 日照 时间很短，再加上这几天天气还不好，来到 小樽 时已经天黑了。不过一切对于我来说都是新鲜的，拿起相机就是一顿狂拍。</p>
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<p>来到一个新地方，我都会习惯性地周围先逛一下，熟悉一下地形，所以我们到酒店放下东西就立刻往街上跑了。显然这两天的温度又有所提升了，街道上的积雪开始慢慢融化了。</p>
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<p>冬季的 北海道 不仅天黑得快，店铺也关得早，一路上很多店铺都关门了。问了好几个当地人，才找到这条寿司街，寿司果然才是入夜 小樽 的深夜食堂。政寿司在网上实在太火，像我们这种没有预定碰巧遇到的基本没戏，我们还是继续寻找一些不知名的小店吧。</p>
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<p>最后我们在4家寿司店中选择了这家，没错，颜值控的我们可能就是因为门面装修得精致一点就可以把我们吸引进去。 日本 餐厅的用餐环境其实我一直都不太习惯，太过于安静了，感觉少了些市井气息。</p>
<p>我们特意选了个吧台的位置坐下，虽然语言不通，但也只是好奇看看他们做寿司的全过程。入乡要随俗，寿司据说要配清酒，那就煮上一壶吧。</p>
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<p>我们两眼一对，就知道彼此的意思了，毕竟都是吃货，双人份套餐先来一个，甜虾，三文鱼，海胆都是我们的最爱，海鲜控的我们再多来了一份海鲜刺身。 日本 料理从颜值上就能征服我们，这道三鲜蒸滑蛋（名字我瞎起的，具体忘记了，里面有一只虾，一个蟹钳和鱼子）看起来就让人食欲大增。</p>
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<p>经过一晚上的充电，元气满满地迎接第二天的行程。上午我们去了一趟朝里，回来的时候在JR南 小樽 站下车了，因为从这里出发，一路上可以先经过童话十字路口的八音盒堂，北一和大正哨子馆， 小樽 运河，然后再走到船见坂。</p>
<p>从南 小樽 出来，可谓一步一景，远处复古的出租车，和《情书》同款的邮差，穿过十字路口的列车，每一个画面我都爱得不行。</p>
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<p>童话十字路口，这个名字起得还挺贴切，远远就能看见这个颇具风格得建筑，特别是门前这个复古的大摆钟，原来它就是小杜一直心心念的八音盒博物馆。</p>
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<p>走进里面简直就是一个硕大的音乐盒，耳边萦绕着各种轻音乐，虽然繁多，但是并不吵杂。八音盒堂分为三层，室内全都是木质结构，每一层的音乐盒种类都不一样，对于选择困难症的我是无法下手的。因为临近圣诞，室内的装饰也很有氛围，还专门设置了一个圣诞音乐盒专区。</p>
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<p>是的，这里是一个会让人少女心泛滥的地方，所有小时候的童话幻想在这里也可以逐一实现。</p>
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<p>从八音盒堂出来，沿着商业街一路走，两旁几乎都是各式的硝子店，北一和大正的硝子馆最多。 小樽 最出名就是玻璃工业，这也让这个城市有了“灯的故乡”等美誉，看精致的玻璃工艺，也是 小樽 另一种浪漫。琳琅满目的玻璃用具、艺术品及家饰罗列满街， 日本 的工匠们从海洋中获得了灵感，所以硝子有不少使用蓝色和淡绿色，正是大海的象征。</p>
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<p>午饭时间我们找的一家拉面馆解决的，在 日本 找吃的，我觉得寿司，拉面和烤肉就是标配的三大件。 日本 拉面的味道还真不错，汤底浓郁，拉面劲道。</p>
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<p>饭后一根冰淇淋，也一样赛过活神仙啊！！</p>
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<p>我们边吃着冰淇淋，边往 小樽 运河的方向走去。没有积雪的 小樽 运河好像少了点意思。当时我还一直跟小杜说，如果过两天从 函馆 回来下雪了，再过来 小樽 一趟吧，她连忙答应了。</p>
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<p>毕竟是第一天来到 北海道 ，拍摄的想法总会有点多，在酒店收拾的时候我就一股脑的把所有的摄影器材都带上，三脚架，无人机，长焦镜头。她又不忍心我一个人背，就把一些器材放到包里，以至于逛到下午她已经累得不行了，倚着栏杆跟我抱怨说：老公，我们这趟旅游不是来度蜜月的吗，为啥要这么辛苦背那么多器材拍照，好累啊！！</p>
<p>她这句话前前后后跟我说了起码三遍，后来我想了想，确实啊，很多时候我都太在乎照片呈现出来的东西，感觉反而丢失了一些旅游本身带给我们的乐趣。所有后面几天我都尽量轻装上阵，能简则简。</p>
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<p>在去往船见坂的路上，经过了一条废弃的铁路，因为走的人比较少，积雪还没完全化掉，这里立刻成了我们的乐园。架起三脚架，各种POSE，各种打闹就开始拍起来了。</p>
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<p>说到船见坂，首先想到的就是《情书》这部电影，一个镜头把这条通向海边的马路带火了。那天天气不太好，一直都是阴天，也没有下雪，一路的斜坡往上走，一回头便看到尽头的海，电影一幕幕仿佛就出现在眼前。</p>
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<p>既然一直没有等到送信的邮差，那我们就充当了一次男女主角吧，一个向左，一个向右，我们说不定就能在下一个街口相遇呢。</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="101025801">登别 | 大雪和温泉简直绝配</h5>
<p>登别 我在出发前考虑了很久，到底要不要去呢？温泉无疑是 登别 的一大吸引点，但是后面的 洞爷湖 也是一个温泉点，且景色更加好。唯一让我确定下来的就是这里真正的硫磺温泉。</p>
<p>作为 广东 人的我，其实是不缺泡温泉的机会的，缺的是真正的地热硫磺温泉，据说泡完皮肤滑溜的很。泡过各种“药材”温泉的我，最终还是说服了自己，决定把 登别 定下来一探硫磺温泉的奥秘。</p>
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<p>第三天一大早，我们就从 札幌 出发前往 登别 ，1个多小时的车程到了JR 登别 站后，需要再转巴士前往温泉街， 登别 的大部分酒店都在温泉街，到站之后走路即可到达。</p>
<p>关于巴士票：在JR 登别 站出站后就可以通过自助购票机购买，也可以到人工售票口购买。因为我们明天需要回到这里坐JR到 洞爷湖 ，所以直接买的来回，一起640日元（如果需要来回的，直接购买来回的，分开购买价格会贵一点）。从后门上巴士的时候，记得拿整理券（用来证明你的乘坐起点的），到站后车票和整理券一起放进回收口就ok了。</p>
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<p>一下车我就知道我当初的选择是没错的， 登别 用一场大雪来迎接我们的到来。啊啊啊啊啊，终于盼来了啊，雪花飘飘的感觉真美。预定好的酒店还没来得及去找，就先把箱子里的厚衣服翻出来穿上，先拍照再说啊。</p>
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<p>温泉小镇其实并不大，一条街直通到地狱谷。到酒店寄存好行李已经是下午1点多了，赶紧又找了家拉面馆填饱肚子。对于吃，我们都是认真的，昨天也是拉面，今天也是拉面，总得来点不一样吧，于是我们狠下心，点了一碗帝王蟹腿的海鲜拉面（差不多花了250RMB），味增的咸盖过了海鲜的鲜味，不推荐。不过后面那盘烤鱿鱼非常推荐，搭配 沙拉 酱竟然莫名的好吃。</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/100k1f000001gnczsF4AF_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/100k1f000001gnczsF4AF_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/100h1f000001gkr2x8EA6_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/100h1f000001gkr2x8EA6_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img489644741" data-likeid="489644741|3944951" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="489644741" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="489644741|47692559" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/10041f000001gi5s6691D_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/10041f000001gi5s6691D_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>午饭后出来，竟然狂风大作，雪也越下越大，才刚出来一分钟，帽子和衣服都已经挂满了雪花。当然这对于我们来说完全不是困扰，简直就是上天的恩赐，终于盼来了一场像样的大雪，终于有点来到了冬季 北海道 的感觉了。</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/100g1f000001gjvcs1CAC_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/100g1f000001gjvcs1CAC_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>看来这场雪也是很多人期待着的，看，远处的小姐姐也来不及穿上点衣服就往外跑，真佩服她们的御寒能力。整个温泉小镇感觉一秒进入了冬季，刚才还清晰可见的石板路，一眨眼的功夫就铺满了白雪，嗯，这才是我要的感觉。</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100t1f000001gj7jk9E72_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100t1f000001gj7jk9E72_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>大风雪继续肆意的下，我们也继续我们的“表演”，这家复古的商店门前成了我们最好的背景，这画面美得有点像韩剧里的男女主角啊。说真的，在这样的风雪里拍照，一定要备好围巾和帽子，雪花可真会见缝插针。</p>
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<p>雪停了，我们就继续沿着温泉街往地狱谷的方向走去，前方一个一直往外冒雾气的地方吸引了我们，越靠近就越闻到一股臭鸡蛋的刺鼻味道，那么可以断定下面肯定就是硫磺温泉了。</p>
<p>只是没想到泉水竟然那么“躁动”，一直往外喷涌而出，伴随着的是浓浓的水蒸气和硫磺味， 登别 丰富的地热和温泉资源由此可见。</p>
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<p>再往里走，就看到有一座神社和 登别 经典的红蓝鬼雕塑。虽然它们面目有点狰狞，但是 登别 这个地方，大街小巷都被各种形色的鬼怪雕塑所充斥，来到 登别 ，就仿佛来到了的鬼的家乡。</p>
<p>实际上在 北海道 ，人们把鬼当作保护神，有祈愿鬼、生意 兴隆 鬼、恋爱结缘鬼等等，就如咱们摆放貔貅、财神是差不多的道理。而红鬼和蓝鬼则是 登别 温泉的守护神和吉祥物了。在温泉街，你可以随处买到很多两只鬼形象的纪念品。</p>
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<p>地狱谷是免门票的，未见其景先闻其味，整个地狱谷的山体都是这种黄白黄白的颜色。也多亏了 登别 的地狱谷，才造就了 登别 “ 北海道 第一温泉名乡”的美称，又有“温泉的百货公司”的名号。</p>
<p>登别 所有酒店的温泉都是从地狱谷引流过去的，富含各种矿物质，像这样可以亲身看到源头的硫磺温泉真的少之又少了。</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/10071f000001gzv1m76CF_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/10071f000001gzv1m76CF_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/100c1f000001gltorD2EA_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/100c1f000001gltorD2EA_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>地狱谷的观景平台有两条木栈道，一条通向下方的观景平台，可以更加靠近去感受硫磺带来的刺激感；另外一条通往山上，可以从高处俯瞰地狱谷，人相对少一点。</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/100t1f000001gj88vD5A6_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/100t1f000001gj88vD5A6_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img489644793" data-likeid="489644793|3944951" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="489644793" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="489644793|47692559" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/100h1f000001gkr47366D_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/100h1f000001gkr47366D_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>山上的积雪明显要厚很多，又到了我们撒欢撒狗粮的时刻，请接好。</p>
<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img489644792" data-likeid="489644792|3944951" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="489644792" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="489644792|47692559" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/100o1f000001gi0rm0765_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/100o1f000001gi0rm0765_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>来到山顶，有几条分叉小路，有一条能走到山的另一面，可以看到有一个更大的天然“温泉”，有点像块蓝宝石。</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/10091f000001glkz26A04_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/10091f000001glkz26A04_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/10021f000001gq9caA7CA_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/10021f000001gq9caA7CA_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>我们俩把自己称为“见雪疯”，意思就是看到厚厚的积雪，我们就成了神经病，时而开心大笑，时而闭目沉思，可以呆若木鸡，也可以原地打转300圈。</p>
<p>我那个经典的单手支撑动作已经被很多人吐槽了，说我胖了，肉眼可见地越跳越低，看来再不减肥就要跳不动了。</p>
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<p>入夜的 登别 又是另一种感觉，一日游的游客慢慢散去，这个小镇又逐渐变回了平静。</p>
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<p>入夜气温明显下降了，雪又慢慢下大了。在 登别 ，大家晚上的节目基本就是回酒店泡温泉，然后再品尝一顿精致的日式料理，所以街上基本很少人，整条马路都被我们承包了。</p>
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<p>据说到了一年一度的地域祭期间，地狱之王率领妖魔鬼怪出现在温泉街上，各色鬼怪配合着吓人的吼叫，黑夜里鬼的影子和人的影子交替，使温泉街真正变成了一条鬼街，据说在今年的地狱祭期间，还曾吓哭过小孩子呢。听着还觉得有点吓人呢，我们还是赶紧回酒店吧。</p>
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<p>我们订酒店的时候定的是一泊两食，包含了双人的早晚餐。入住的时候前台会让你确定晚上吃饭的时间，然后到点就会直接送到房间，菜品也是酒店固定好，不用自己操心。</p>
<p>不得不感叹， 日本 人做的餐食确实精致，从一碗一碟中可以看得出来他们的别出心裁。饭后服务员就过来给我们收拾好，还把榻榻米的床被铺好，也真的是用心服务了。</p>
<p>饭后一杯茶，休息一下，我们就开始了一天的重头戏 ———— 泡温泉啦啦啦！！！</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="101025731">洞爷湖 | 温泉界的神仙享受</h5>
<p>同样是温泉界的翘楚，我觉得 洞爷湖 和 登别 的体验是完全不同的，算是各有特色吧。 登别 有其天然地热资源的优势，硫磺温泉是它独有的吸引力；而 洞爷湖 更多的是美景加温泉结合，从视觉和体感上获得的双重感受。</p>
<p>简单来说就是， 登别 重在泡温泉，而 洞爷湖 重在它的美景。所以我把重金砸在了 洞爷湖 的酒店上，到底有多重，值不值得，往后面看你们就知道了。</p>
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<p>第二天离开 登别 的时候，竟然是个大晴天，我是该庆幸呢还是该庆幸呢？ 登别 用一场大风雪来迎接我们，用一个大晴天来送别我们，完全就是我最爱的天气啊，我还记住你的好意的。</p>
<p>从 登别 坐JR到 洞爷湖 ，1个小时就能到达，然后还是需要再换乘大巴前往 洞爷湖 的酒店，往返券一起购买620日元。</p>
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<p>这里要提醒一下，可能当时我在车上睡懵了，再加上出发前攻略没有作仔细，误以为 洞爷湖 温泉站就是末站，所以一到站就下车了，也没有多想。后来到了酒店才发现，原来我们入住的酒店马路对面就是公车站，站名是中央通巴士站。害！！！我们白白在雪地了走了一站的路程，还好天气还行，积雪不是很厚，不然要哭了！</p>
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<p>出发前在选择 洞爷湖 的酒店时，也是让我左右为难，在 温莎 和乃之风之间选择不定： 温莎 在山上，可以俯瞰整个 洞爷湖 景，虽然有接驳车下山到 洞爷湖 小镇上，但是有时间限制很不方便；乃之风就在小镇上，出门就可以在湖边闲逛，欣赏美景。</p>
<p>最终让我定下乃之风是因为其楼顶的户外温泉和大堂的这个全落地观景平台，简直就是出片利器，怎么拍都好看。没错，爱好摄影的我就连选酒店也变得如此不可理喻，竟然屈服于一块玻璃上，哈哈哈哈。</p>
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<p>北海道 大部分酒店都是下午3点才开始办理入住的，我们寄存好行李就到外面觅食去了。因为来得比较早，街道上几乎没有什么游客。跟国内情况不一样，餐厅都是打开门做生意，而在 洞爷湖 这里如果不是门前竖着个“营业中”的牌子，还以为餐厅正在“旺铺转让”呢。他们也真是佛系做生意。</p>
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<p>看这家餐厅，大门紧闭，外面也非常冷清，如果不是那块红色的“open”牌子，我们还真不敢推门而进。餐厅是两夫妇在经营，做的都是简餐为主，味道过得去但没有什么惊喜，中规中矩。</p>
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<p>午饭后出来闲逛，误打误撞来到了这条彩灯星空隧道，其实离我们酒店也就几百米的距离。每年11月1日到次年的3月1日，这里都会搭建起这条彩灯星空隧道，晚上6-10点就会亮灯，一定不能错过。千万不要像我们，沉迷于泡温泉，完全忘记了时间。</p>
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<p>那天 洞爷湖 的天气一直都是阴天，可能是靠近湖边的缘故，风还很大，我们就直接放弃了坐船游的念头，选择在湖边逛逛拍拍。</p>
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<p>洞爷湖 湖面在冬天也不会冻结，是 日本 最北端的不冻湖，一年四季荡漾着清丽的湖水。每年的4月下旬到10月中旬，每天都举行礼花燃放活动，可惜冬季行完美地错过了。</p>
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<p>滴，一人一张打卡 成功 ，小杜为了上镜也是拼了，脱了厚厚的外套单薄出镜，也许女人真的是天生抗冻的吧。</p>
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<p>在 日本 ，几乎随处可见自动贩卖机，这也成了一道靓丽的风景线。我记得有一个摄影师，就是专门拍 日本 的自动贩卖机火起来的，由此可见，贩卖机的普及程度有多高，都可以创作出一系列专门的题材。</p>
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<p>下午4点左右，我们就回酒店了，游客明显多了很多，都在排着队办理入住手续。等我们拿到钥匙进房间看到的那一刻，才觉得贵确实是有道理的。</p>
<p>房间无论是软硬件方面都是我们整趟 北海道 行程下来最“高配”的，在房间就可以直接看到 洞爷湖 景，这个简直就是神仙窗户。房间还配有小茶点，再泡上一壶热茶，我们真的就可以在这边上发呆一下午了。</p>
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<p>因为我们在 洞爷湖 只呆一个晚上，明天也是一大早就离开，晚饭前我就跟小杜说，到外面逛逛吧，再看看这座小镇的夜景。</p>
<p>果然温泉小镇的夜生活都一样，大家早早都回到酒店，晚饭后休息一会就去泡温泉，街道上都是空荡荡的。</p>
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<p>趁天色还没完全黑，我又掏出了我的无人机，原来高空俯瞰下的 洞爷湖 小镇美得如此梦幻，这简直就是我们俩一直所期望的那种退休生活，感觉他们就是生活在画里啊！！</p>
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<p>因为第一天晚上私人温泉已经预约满了，所以我们只能约到第二天早上7点的。离开 洞爷湖 前最后一泡温泉，不过也是无奈 日本 的温泉都是男女分开，明明是一趟蜜月之行，也不能老是分开“各自行动”，恰巧酒店又有私人泡汤的服务，怎么也得试一试啊！！</p>
<p>可惜，那天的早上也是阴天，没有日出，不然整个泡汤会更加锦上添花。（关于私汤攻略后面酒店部分详细说噢！！）</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="101025952">函馆 | 夜景和海鲜一个都不能少</h5>
<p>函馆 是一个港口城市，渔业非常发达，所以我们来这里的第一个目标非常明确，就是奔着海鲜来的； 函馆 山是 函馆 市内唯一的一座山，能够俯瞰到整个 函馆 市， 函馆 的夜景被称为世界三大夜景之一，响当当的名堂，又有些许浪漫的气氛，不就适合我们这些新婚小夫妻吗，哈哈哈。</p>
<p>所以，我们不远千里来 函馆 的目的就是吃海鲜，看夜景。世间最美好的不是诗和远方，对于我们来说，是吃和远方。</p>
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<p>经过漫长的3个小时车程，基本都是一路睡过来的。一出车站，感觉就能闻到淡淡的海水味，名副其实的海港城市。下着雨，刮着风，这让本来毫无准备的我们，雪上加霜。我们只能拖着行李，冒着雨直奔酒店去。</p>
<p>办理入住的时间还早，寄存好行李就到外面找吃的，这就是我们的惯用伎俩，走着。</p>
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<p>出发前就早有耳闻其 大名 ，作为 函馆 的著名快餐品牌——小丑 汉堡 ，竟然在饭点这个时候出现在我们眼前，那么不用找了，午饭就安排给你吧。</p>
<p>这家小丑 汉堡 （ 函馆 站前店）非常好找，就在朝市的斜对面，算是一家比较小的分店。</p>
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<p>汉堡 是一定不能错过的，牛肉和鸡肉 汉堡 各一个，再配了些薯条 沙拉 。说实话，量可以说是非常足的，芝士薯条是真的香，反正我觉得随便乱点都好吃，可能是我们都饿坏了吧。</p>
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<p>饭饱酒足，我们就往金森仓库方向走去，顺便先踩踩点。一路上几乎都是各种纪念品商店，又赶上圣诞期间，商店里的装饰让圣诞气氛更加浓厚。</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/100v1f000001gu8o8A9C8_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/100v1f000001gu8o8A9C8_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>其实我们一开始的计划是中午前来到 函馆 ，饭后逛一会刚好坐缆车上 函馆 山看日落的，但明天今天的天气不允许，大风雪肆虐， 函馆 山早早就发出了停止缆车运行的通知，所以我们临时改变计划，就在金森仓库，八幡坂这块区域先走一圈。</p>
<p>当时我心想：明天可千万别又是这样的天气啊，我们可是等着上山看夜景的啊，来一趟多不容易啊。但是看到现在风雪交加的情况，心里其实已经心灰意冷了。</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100v1f000001gu8kc0CEE_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100v1f000001gu8kc0CEE_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>查了一下地图，原来八幡坂和金森仓库离得很近，拐过一个路口就能看到，路的尽头其实就是 函馆 山，缆车索道完全看不到，能见度非常低。</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/100w1f000001gp82s3C40_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/100w1f000001gp82s3C40_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/100j1f000001giocr359B_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/100j1f000001giocr359B_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/10061f000001gjt644E7F_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/10061f000001gjt644E7F_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>八幡坂跟船见坂有点像，路的尽头都是大海，但明显八幡坂路更宽，街景更加现代化一点。路灯的光刚好映衬在雨水打湿的石板街上，让画面更加梦幻。</p>
<p>可以说照片有多好看，当时就有多狼狈。雨夹雪，还刮着强风，刚买的透明雨伞早就抵挡不住，“骨折”了，外套几乎也是全打湿了，拼了拼了。</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/100t1f000001gj8l23361_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/100t1f000001gj8l23361_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>装饰的彩灯也亮了起来，应该是天气的缘故吧，街上的路人非常少，也真的只有我们还冒着雨在狂欢，完全把刚刚还在担心明天行程的坏心情抛诸脑后。</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/100s1f000001gq2gn2A04_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/100s1f000001gq2gn2A04_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>等衣服都湿得差不多了（其实是已经拍够了），我们就原路返回金森仓库了。回去的时候终于被我遇上了，就是这里的有轨电车，喜欢拍照的人应该都懂，电车的出现无疑给照片带来了更多的偶然性，让照片看起来也复古了很多。</p>
<p>然后我就站在十字路口里，等了一辆又一辆.......到后面，只要是好看的车都不会放过，哈哈哈</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/100t1f000001gj8lzEA15_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/100t1f000001gj8lzEA15_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>雨时大时小，风一直没停，入夜后气温更加低了，我们在户外呆久了实在是受不了，就干脆一个一个仓库进去打卡。里面感觉其实就跟我们国内的创意园差不多，由以前的老工厂改造后，摇身一变成为高大上的艺术空间，里面尽是各种美食，纪念品，艺术品等等。</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/10031f000001gkx1j391D_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/10031f000001gkx1j391D_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>虽然冷，但是外面一样还是很热闹，原来每年圣诞期间，金森仓库外都会“种上”一棵巨型圣诞树，每天晚上都会有一些当地特色的文艺表演，刚才还空空的街道顿时就围满了人。街上还有很多圣诞老人，可以随意和他们合影呢。</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/10031f000001gkx1nF8A1_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/10031f000001gkx1nF8A1_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>回酒店的路上我们绕了一下路，竟然又被我发现了一辆可爱的有轨电车，黄色的外衣搭配卡通公仔，它就是这条街最靓的“仔”了。</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/10041f000001gi66wD307_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/10041f000001gi66wD307_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/10061f000001gjt7b4340_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/10061f000001gjt7b4340_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/10021f000001gq9piC1C5_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/10021f000001gq9piC1C5_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>天黑了，饭点又到了，一般来说我们在吃饭的安排上，基本都是中午快餐将就着吃（省时间），晚上可以再好好吃一顿。但是今晚有点特殊，毕竟好戏还在明天，所以晚上我们只是在食街随便找了家拉面馆解决。</p>
<p>最有意思的是我们发现了很有日式风格的居酒屋，短短的300多米之间，就挤了10几家居酒屋，虽然房间有点小，但我想它们应该是胜在情调和出品上吧，去的也基本都是 日本 当地人。</p>
<p>本来我们也想找一家这样的，两个人安安静静吃点烤肉啊，喝点小酒啊，但是很多小店都已经满座了。</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/10051f000001glp1u067A_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/10051f000001glp1u067A_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100o1f000001gi1505AE5_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100o1f000001gi1505AE5_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/10081f000001gjdupAE17_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/10081f000001gjdupAE17_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>最后我们选择了一家拉面馆，宣传广告上打着有中文，所以我就选择了这家。后来证实了一下，味道确实也很“ 中国 风”，贴近我们的口味。</p>
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<p>第二天起来，打开窗户，“哇噢”，终于迎来了大晴天，我们两几乎同时喊了出来，看来今晚的日落和夜景是有戏了。</p>
<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img489645598" data-likeid="489645598|3944951" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="489645598" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="489645598|47692559" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/10011f000001gw45d067A_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/10011f000001gw45d067A_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>为啥今天要早起？！没办法，因为今天的首要任务就是吃，海，鲜！！！</p>
<p>函馆 朝市是 北海道 最热闹的集贸市场之一，也是当地特色的大型海鲜市场，大大小小的店铺有几百家，简直就是海鲜爱好者的天堂。每天新鲜打捞上来的海鲜都会在这里售卖，一直营业到中午，所以记得要调闹钟哦。</p>
<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img489645599" data-likeid="489645599|3944951" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="489645599" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="489645599|47692559" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/100l1f000001gjcw50C6C_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/100l1f000001gjcw50C6C_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/10071f000001gzvfkEACF_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/10071f000001gzvfkEACF_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>在众多的海鲜中，我们独宠螃蟹。朝市里卖得最多的也是螃蟹，其中毛蟹和帝皇蟹是最畅销的。你可以自己去选择整只新鲜的，也可以选择冰冻的，当然也可以只买已经烤好的蟹腿，从价格上就可以看出其中的优劣。</p>
<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img489645620" data-likeid="489645620|3944951" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="489645620" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="489645620|47692559" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/100m1f000001gsjp44ACB_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/100m1f000001gsjp44ACB_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100n1f000001gi91h908C_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100n1f000001gi91h908C_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/10071f000001gzvft488D_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/10071f000001gzvft488D_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/100q1f000001gkhaf4B9D_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/100q1f000001gkhaf4B9D_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/10091f000001glld403C3_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/10091f000001glld403C3_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>经过我们俩再三商量，最终我们还是在两者中选择了帝皇蟹。跟老板谈过价格之后，以1000元人民币左右购入一只重1.78公斤重的帝皇蟹，真的是我吃过最贵的一顿海鲜了，赶紧合影纪念一下，不然白吃了。</p>
<p>根据老板推荐的做法，帝皇蟹最常见的吃法就是拿两根腿来做赤身，其他就用来烧烤。我觉得如果想要吃它的鲜甜的话，一定是赤身的吃法最好，最大程度保留了海鲜本身的风味。</p>
<p>后面还加了个 北极 贝刺身，花了100多左右，这个性价比相对就高一些，味道确实非常鲜甜爽口，推荐！！</p>
<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img489645619" data-likeid="489645619|3944951" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="489645619" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="489645619|47692559" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10051f000001glp2f401A_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10051f000001glp2f401A_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img489645642" data-likeid="489645642|3944951" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="489645642" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="489645642|47692559" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/100k1f000001gndf934A4_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/100k1f000001gndf934A4_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img489645643" data-likeid="489645643|3944951" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="489645643" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="489645643|47692559" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100h1f000001gkri98636_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100h1f000001gkri98636_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>除了海鲜，水果也是来 函馆 必吃的，特别推荐这里的葡萄和 哈密 瓜。</p>
<p>北海道 的 哈密 瓜正确来说应该叫夕张 哈密 瓜，出了名的糯甜，汁水非常多，一般都是切开来卖，像上面这样一瓣卖到350日元左右。而这里的葡萄也是一绝，上面这样一串我们花了3000日元，葡萄的香味确实会比较浓，甜度我觉得刚好，不会太腻。</p>
<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img489645610" data-likeid="489645610|3944951" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="489645610" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="489645610|47692559" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/100h1f000001gkri7E704_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/100h1f000001gkri7E704_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img489645641" data-likeid="489645641|3944951" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="489645641" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="489645641|47692559" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/100i1f000001gi0cyCB0E_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/100i1f000001gi0cyCB0E_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>除了新鲜的海鲜和水果，这里的海鲜干货也成了很多游客回国的必备手信之一。</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/100i1f000001gi0cu099A_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/100i1f000001gi0cu099A_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>走的时候，我们发现了这个好玩的档口，现场钓墨鱼，钓上来之后商家直接给你处理成赤身食用，果然还是 日本 人会玩，吸引了好多游客。</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/100p1f000001gibom74A3_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/100p1f000001gibom74A3_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img489645635" data-likeid="489645635|3944951" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="489645635" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="489645635|47692559" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10091f000001glld5F3E4_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10091f000001glld5F3E4_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img489645644" data-likeid="489645644|3944951" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="489645644" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="489645644|47692559" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/100q1f000001gkhaj0A21_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/100q1f000001gkhaj0A21_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>血拼完海鲜大餐后，我们又回到了金森仓库群这边逛逛。</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/100s1f000001gq2isD2A9_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/100s1f000001gq2isD2A9_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/10011f000001gw43jFB9C_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/10011f000001gw43jFB9C_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/100b1f000001glkv75ED6_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/100b1f000001glkv75ED6_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/100q1f000001gkham9B08_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/100q1f000001gkham9B08_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>都说女人的胃很奇怪，有时候像在吃“猫食”，有时候却又饭量惊人。刚吃完海鲜没多久，小杜又说饿了。原来我们走到了小丑 汉堡 餐厅来，她看到又饿了。那就把上次没试过的点一些来吃呗。</p>
<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img489645655" data-likeid="489645655|3944951" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="489645655" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="489645655|47692559" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/100e1f000001glxvhFEC9_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/100e1f000001glxvhFEC9_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img489645647" data-likeid="489645647|3944951" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="489645647" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="489645647|47692559" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/100o1f000001gi15w3306_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/100o1f000001gi15w3306_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>饭后继续散步。嗯！！天气好的八幡坂确实不一样，远处的海景清晰可见。</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/100q1f000001gkhaoBAC6_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/100q1f000001gkhaoBAC6_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/10041f000001gi67xA6E2_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/10041f000001gi67xA6E2_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/100m1f000001gsks62EAD_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/100m1f000001gsks62EAD_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img489645639" data-likeid="489645639|3944951" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="489645639" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="489645639|47692559" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/100l1f000001gjcwj6382_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg08.c-ctrip.com/images/100l1f000001gjcwj6382_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img489645650" data-likeid="489645650|3944951" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="489645650" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="489645650|47692559" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/10021f000001gq9qnB296_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg03.c-ctrip.com/images/10021f000001gq9qnB296_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>沿着八幡坂往上走是 函馆 的天主教元町教会，这一片还有很多这样大大小小的教堂，都是可以免费参观的。这些教堂和当地的居民的房子错落分布在山上，形成了一道别样的风景线。</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100c1f000001glu3eE803_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100c1f000001glu3eE803_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<img data-original="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/100f1f000001gj7loF4C2_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg05.c-ctrip.com/images/100f1f000001gj7loF4C2_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img489645731" data-likeid="489645731|3944951" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="489645731" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="489645731|47692559" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100v1f000001gu8n3FBF1_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/100v1f000001gu8n3FBF1_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>山上基本都逛了个遍，也提前踩了一下傍晚坐缆车的点，时间还早，我们干脆就跟着地图一直走到 函馆 的另一个海边来，具体名字忘记了，应该不是一个景点，毕竟一个游客都没有，但我就比较喜欢这样安静的地方，终于有时间享受一下“二人世界”。</p>
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<p>边上有个咖啡厅，我觉得老板肯定也是一个有情怀的人，不追求人来人往的客流，只选择一个面朝大 海安 静的地方。</p>
<p>傍晚的阳光很柔和，还有你脸上洋溢的笑容，我想这趟旅行应该足够让我回味很久。</p>
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<p>趁着路上没啥车，合影走一波，不然我们俩都没有其他合影机会了。</p>
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<p>我们掐着点往回走，来到缆车索道时游客已经多了很多，慢慢到了上山高峰期了，赶紧买票登顶。记得尽量站在窗户边上哦，一路上的风景也不可以错过哦，看远处的山已经被夕阳染红了，夜景马上要来了。</p>
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<p>来到山顶，才发现观景台几乎站满了人，好不容易才找到一个好机位。所以如果想要有好位置看夜景，最好4点左右做缆车登山，不然就只能被挤在外围，想要拍好照片几乎不可能了。</p>
<p>山上的风非常大，我想拍一段日落延时，无奈没有带手机脚架，就只能手举，到后期手几乎冻得没知觉了。</p>
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<p>随着天色变暗，城市的灯慢慢亮起来，这个号称“世界三大夜景”之一的 函馆 夜景逐渐露出了它的真容。那一刻我就在感叹，幸好老天眷顾，昨天还是风雪交加，今天就大晴天，才让我们看到如此清澈绝美的夜景，值了，感恩！！</p>
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<p>照片拍好了，我们就赶紧下山了，因为晚了要排很久的队，我们还要赶8点多的JR回到 札幌 ，毕竟 函馆 的任务已经完成了，可以功成身退了。</p>
<p>观赏夜景tips：</p>
<p>1.缆车费用（往返)：成人1280日元，儿童640日元；</p>
<p>2.冬季推荐4点前坐缆车上去，不然排队的人多，而且山顶也没有很好的观赏点；</p>
<p>3.一定要做好御寒措施，山顶风很大，温度低，衣服不够很快就受不了；</p>
<p>4.山顶观景台下有两家餐厅，有靠窗的位置，也是一个非常好的欣赏点，进去就一定要消费，不过要提前预定，毕竟边享用着晚餐边欣赏日落夜景，不用受冷风吹，来的人还是非常多的。</p>
<p>5.想要拍照的一定要带好三脚架，提前上去占好位置哦！！！</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="101026098">札幌 | 期待和不舍都留在了这里</h5>
<p>我们把最后一天留给了 札幌 ，这是出发前“领导”再三叮嘱的，最后一天一定要回到 札幌 ，拿出一天时间来给她安排。</p>
<p>我说：“ 札幌 没什么好玩的哦。”</p>
<p>她说：“噢，那没关系，玩不玩不重要，买才是正事。”</p>
<p>我.....谨遵指示。</p>
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<p>经过昨晚完美的一觉，又是元气满满的一天，原来 札幌 昨晚下了一场大雪。</p>
<p>我们第一站来到了 北海道 大学，整个校园都是白茫茫一片，学生也开始往教室方向赶。每次走进大学里，都会回想起以前大学的美好时光，那种无忧无虑的感觉真好。</p>
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<p>大学里的美好，除了那些无忧无虑的生活，当然还有那段爱情萌芽的青涩时光。过往的所有经历，都是为了现在遇见的你。你虽然没有陪过走过来时的路，但未来的人生还很长，我陪你携手到老。</p>
<p>和你一起走走大学，就假装一下我们都回到学园恋爱的美妙时光呀！！</p>
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<p>从 北海道 大学出来后，我们就按着导航的方向向狸小路走去，途中经过了 北海道 厅旧本厅舍。但这里吸引我的不是这座建筑物，是湖边的鸭子和乌鸦。</p>
<p>乌鸦在 日本 真的是神奇的存在，我们一般认为乌鸦是不好的，但对于 日本 人来说却相反。而且它们的个头还很大，一直在湖 边和 这里的野鸭子抢食，那画面真的是相当有趣。</p>
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<p>狸小路，对，这里就是女生的天堂，男生的“地狱”。</p>
<p>其实这里跟我们之前去 大阪 的心斋桥差不多，就是一条商业街。据说狸小路已经有140年的历史，是 北海道 历史最悠久的商业街之一，药妆，饮食，娱乐，服装等等应有尽有，这就是为啥小杜要把 札幌 安排到最后一天的原因啦。</p>
<p>有个不成熟的小建议：来这里购物，女生一般就是药妆店，一般来说有中文导购的价格都会稍贵一点点，即使同一品牌的药妆店，不同的分店价格也略有差别，记得一定要货比三家。</p>
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<p>除了狸小路商业街外，附近还有很多大型商场和奢侈品店，一定能满足所有女生的购物欲望。有些商场会有打折劵提供，凭护照就可以领取，另外再加上退税，优惠力度还蛮大的。</p>
<p>小杜回国后盘点自己的战利品时，就在那感叹：哎，每次出国买东西，感觉花别的国家的货币好像不太心疼，但回头折算起来心又在滴血。话虽这么说，但每次还是一样买得开开心心。</p>
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<p>本来打算买完东西就回酒店，然后出去觅食的，毕竟那些化妆品提起来还挺费劲的。但途中看到了大通公园亮起了花灯，还有圣诞集市。为了欣赏花灯，我们来回徒步了差不多半个小时，主要还提着很重的东西，也是够拼的。</p>
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<p>圣诞集市上主要卖各种圣诞主题的小饰品，还有各种 日本 当地美食。我觉得他们有一个做法还值得我们借鉴的，在买吃的时候他们会把餐具的费用给你算上一起收，等你吃完把餐具拿到回收台的时候，他们就会把餐具收的那部分钱退还给你，这样大家都会自觉收拾好餐具，减少工作量的同时还干净卫生。</p>
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<p>小吃只能让我们俩的胃口打开，接下来才进入我们的正餐环节。这家烤肉店我们已经是第二次来了，性价比非常高，而且味道还赞。两人吃的话推荐他们的两人的牛肉套餐，还有牛舌也不错，再来一杯冰啤酒下肚，爽！！！</p>
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<p>第二天我们就离开 札幌 回国了，把所有的不舍都留在了这里。</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="101026015">攻略部分在这里</h5>
<p>我把攻略部分放在最后，仅供大家参考，有什么疑问的话欢迎提问。</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="101026117">关于行程安排</h5>
<p>我们这次 北海道 蜜月之行总共花了8天7夜的时间，具体安排如下：</p>
<p>12.10 : 深圳 — 札幌 — 小樽 （ 小樽 运河夜景，寿司街）</p>
<p>12.11 ： 小樽 — 朝里 — 小樽 （八音盒堂，硝子馆， 小樽 运河，船见坂） — 札幌</p>
<p>12.12 ： 札幌 — 登别 （地狱谷，温泉街，酒店泡汤）</p>
<p>12.13 ： 登别 — 洞爷湖 （ 洞爷湖 小镇，酒店泡汤）</p>
<p>12.14 ： 洞爷湖 — 函馆 （小丑 汉堡 ，金森仓库，八幡坂）</p>
<p>12.15 ： 函馆 （朝市，金森仓库，元町教堂群， 函馆 山夜景） — 札幌</p>
<p>12.16 ： 札幌 一日游（ 北海道 大学，狸小路，大通公园，各大购物商场）</p>
<p>12.17 ： 札幌 — 深圳</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="101026019">关于酒店选择</h5>
<p>个人对于旅行体验来说，首先景色一定是首先考虑的因素，其次就是酒店体验，好的酒店体验能给整趟旅行加分。毕竟自己也不是富二代，出于对整个行程费用的考虑，我们这趟8天7晚的 北海道 之旅一共选择了5家酒店，费用在379元---2201元之间。众所周知，冬季 北海道 酒店价格偏高，我们在选择酒店的时候，会从便捷度，价格，餐食，是否含温泉，舒适度等方面去考虑，享受得了高档的温泉酒店，也住得下实惠的便捷酒店，毕竟旅行就是一次体验，好的不好的都得尝试。</p>
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<p>1. 小樽 豪华多米酒店（544元/晚，双早）</p>
<p>选择这家酒店是考虑到价格和便捷性的原因， 小樽 酒店价格普遍比 札幌 要高，选择性也没有那么多。因为我们第二天的行程是 小樽 -朝里- 小樽 - 札幌 ，所以考虑到出行因素，我们就选择在 小樽 JR站旁边的这家多米酒店，出站马路对面就是。房间比较小，刚好可以打开一个大行李箱，非常干净，考虑便捷性的可以考虑。</p>
<p>关于温泉：酒店的温泉在2楼，开放时间是3:00PM-9:00AM，男汤需要刷房卡，女汤则需要入住时前台提供的密码纸输入密码进入的。泡完温泉，酒店还免费提供了每人一份拉面的宵夜，提供时间是21:30-23:00，味道还不错噢。</p>
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<p>2. 札幌 站前 里士满 酒店（479元/晚，双早）</p>
<p>第二天我们从 小樽 连夜赶回来 札幌 ，一是因为这里的酒店性价比比较高，二是因为第二天我们需要从 札幌 JR站出发到 登别 。酒店离JR站有800多米，有点远，特别是冬季在雪地 里拉 着行李箱非常不方便，所以后来我们再住 札幌 的时候就换酒店了。酒店很新，但房间很小，打开行李箱就基本很难走路了，没有温泉，早餐中规中矩，并没有太多的惊喜；</p>
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<p>3. 登别 汤本温泉酒店（1514元/晚，双早，双晚）</p>
<p>登别 的酒店选择非常多，出发前可是挑得我眼花缭乱。我建议可以从两方面去考虑：价格和温泉。首先看自己的预算，一分钱一分货，贵肯定有它的道理。而汤本温泉酒店的特色在于它的榻榻米房间，房间空间非常大，在 日本 来说可谓大得有点奢侈。我们订的是包含双份早，晚餐的，晚餐是酒店安排好餐食，按照你定的时间直接送到你的房间（6:00-7:30PM，6:30-8:00PM，7:00-8:30PM，7：30-9:00PM这四个时间段可选），吃完会有服务员过来收拾然后给你铺好床。餐食从照片可以看出来非常的精致，样式也非常多，味道还算不错，建议预定房间的时候一起预定晚餐。</p>
<p>关于温泉：真正的硫磺温泉是 登别 酒店的一大卖点，这家酒店的温泉分别在2和3楼。第一天男汤在2楼，女汤在3楼，开放时间是1:00PM-2:00AM；然后4:00AM-9:30AM，就调换过来，男汤在3楼，女汤在2楼。凌晨2-4点是打扫时间，是不允许泡的。这样设计的话早晚一泡，就可以把酒店的温泉都泡个遍啦。温泉区里有很多个不同的分区，最值得泡的当然就是真正的硫磺温泉， 登别 最不缺的资源就是这个，还有一个小小的半露天温泉也可以尝试一下。</p>
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<p>4. 洞爷湖 景乃之风度假酒店（2201元/晚，双早，双晚）</p>
<p>乃之风是整个行程里最贵的一家酒店，也是舒适度最高的一家。酒店就坐落在 洞爷湖 边上，在房间就可以直接眺望到湖景，再加上房间准备好的三套衣服（浴衣，作务衣，白色睡衣（仅限房间使用）），拍照非常赞。全落地玻璃的大堂就是一个非常火的打卡点，无论是硬件，还是软件，这家酒店都能给你满满的惊喜。我们订的是包含双份早，晚餐的，都是自组餐，餐厅可以边吃边欣赏 洞爷湖 景，不过窗口位非常抢手。</p>
<p>关于温泉：乃之风最吸引人的无疑是位于9楼的露天温泉，全露天，可以边泡温泉边欣赏 洞爷湖 美景。开放时间是3:00PM-11:00AM（男女浴场交换清扫时间是深夜的2点-4点），比较推荐傍晚来泡，可以欣赏到 洞爷湖 景的日落。</p>
<p>另外提一下的是，乃之风还有包房的私人温泉提供，适合情侣，夫妇家庭预定，属于封闭式的房间，也可以眺望到 洞爷湖 ，一个房间最多容纳4人，每个时间段只有两个房间，每次50分钟，另外付费3300日元，需要提前到前台预定。</p>
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<p>5. 北海道 函馆 站前朝市东横INN （397元/晚，双早）</p>
<p>选择这家酒店的原因很简单，就是性价比高，地理位置好。 函馆 酒店的价格相对较低，选择也比较多。这家酒店的优势就在于它离JR站很近，步行5分钟就能到。离朝市更近， 非常适合第二天一大早有吃海鲜计划的。唯一的缺点就是房间空间比较小，但只是晚上回来睡个觉是完全足够的。早餐可以不用预定，毕竟第二天需要放开肚皮吃海鲜，我们提前预定的早餐也没吃到，有点浪费。</p>
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<p>6. MYSTAYS 札幌 Aspen酒店（379元/晚，无餐食）</p>
<p>再次回来 札幌 住宿，有了上次的经验，这次的选择明智多了，价格更便宜，房间空间更大，而且还更近地铁站。所以我的经验之谈就是：如果不是特别热门的酒店，当地酒店选择比较少的话，可以不用出发前预定，到了目的地提前一天再订酒店可能有更多的惊喜。</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="101026027">关于交通和费用</h5>
<p>【关于飞机航班】</p>
<p>去程：12月10日： 深圳 （05:40-10:35）- 名古屋 （春秋航空）</p>
<p>名古屋 （13:15-15:00）- 札幌 （天马航空） 共1876元</p>
<p>回程：12月17日： 札幌 （17:25-19:20）- 名古屋 （全日空航空） 1366元</p>
<p>名古屋 （22:40-02:20）- 深圳 （春秋航空） 1278元</p>
<p>北海道 的冬季是旅游旺季，所以机票都会有所上涨，加上又临近圣诞节，更是价格暴涨。所以我们选择在圣诞节前回来，这样机票的预算上就可以少很多。从 深圳 飞往 北海道 的航班选择很多，直飞价格上天不考虑，中转的话可以选择 大阪 ， 东京 ， 名古屋 等 日本 国内的机场，这样机票价格可以节省一大半。</p>
<p>对比了很多的方案，我最终定下来这个方案是因为国际航班最便宜的肯定就是春秋，然后再选择 日本 国内航班的时候优选廉航带行李额的，天马航空就是一个优秀的例子。有计划到 北海道 旅行的话可以提前重点可以关注一下全日空航空，经常会有一些特价机票放出噢。</p>
<p>【关于 北海道 交通】</p>
<p>关于 北海道 的交通攻略，简单可以总结为：坐车时间越长，走的地方越多，越值得购买 北海道 周游券JR PASS。</p>
<p>那应该怎么决定到底要不要买周游券呢？我自己是这么操作的，手机下载一个“换乘案内”的APP，上面可以点对点查到JR的车次和价格，然后根据自己的行程来核算一下整体的费用，再对比一下周游券的价格，哪个划算买哪个。</p>
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<p>以我自己的行程为例，乘坐JR的线路： 新千岁机场 — 小樽 —朝里— 小樽 — 札幌 — 登别 — 洞爷湖 — 函馆 — 札幌 — 新千岁机场 ，总费用在1480元左右，而我购买JR PASS 7日券才1100多，所以总体还是购买周游券便宜。</p>
<p>关于 北海道 JR PASS周游券：只要持有该券，就可以在指定时间内无限次 北海道 所有的 JR 列车和部分 JR 巴士。 北海道 铁路周游券分为 3 日用、5 日用、7 日用票券，可在选定的使用开始日起，连续使用 3 天或 5 天或 7 天；以及任选 4 日畅游券，无法指定使用开始日，购买或兑换任选 4 日畅游券的当天被视为第 1 天，在 10 天内，不论连续或不连续可任选 4 天搭乘列车。</p>
<p>更多关于JR PASS周游券的资讯可登陆：</p>
<p>http://www2.jrhokkaido.co.jp/global/</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="101026134">关于拍摄设备</h5>
<p>1.照片拍摄：佳能5D3，适马24-70mm，全程几乎都在用这个镜头，风光和人像都能兼顾，省去换镜头的麻烦；原厂16-35mm，主要是拍摄室内时用，使用几率比较少；</p>
<p>2.视频拍摄：大疆御2专业版，大疆OSMO Pocket，小蚁相机；</p>
<p>（无人机航拍注意事项jQuery17103056552729151616_1587692434690： 日本 对于无人机的使用非常严格，国内很多地方都禁飞，我在网上看到了一篇关于 日本 无人机航拍的注意事项，大家可以参考一下：</p>
<p>https://zhuanlan.zhihu.com/p/22195568 ）</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="101026207">其他小Tips</h5>
<p>一.穿衣建议：</p>
<p>帽子，围巾和手套很重要：冬季的 北海道 非常冷，尤其遇到大风雪的时候，风雪可谓见缝插针，把自己露在外面的皮肤包裹得严严实实才是硬道理；另外帽子和围巾又是搭配衣服拍照的最佳伴侣；</p>
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<p>出发前我们在服装搭配上纠结了很久，而且感觉每次出门最缺的就是衣服，拍个照真不容易。但是到了目的地后你又发现，衣服啥的，够穿，保暖就好了，每天匆匆出门，都懒得去纠结怎么搭配好看。</p>
<p>所以个人建议厚的外套两套基本够了，保暖为主，颜色最好是浅色系的，或者稍微鲜艳一点都可以，毕竟白茫茫一片，你才是最闪耀的那一个。</p>
<p>二.货币兑换：</p>
<p>汇率我就不多说了，货币兑换的话一定是在国内换好是最划算的，但是一定一定要准备一个小的零钱袋，因为每次找零真的太多太多的硬币，那一刻你会觉得我们的在线支付是多么的便利，人性化。</p>
<p>换钱基本就是预算好吃的，和景点门票的费用，虽然 北海道 现在很多地方也有支付宝等线上支付，但毕竟还没普及，所以还是得提前换好日元。</p>
<p>三.电话卡：</p>
<p>关于网络问题，这次 北海道 之旅用的是达摩DOCOMO手机上网卡，有3/4/5/6/7/8天之分，40GB（总量）4G流量（不含通话），无限3G流量，也就是说总量用完了就会降速，亲测网络稳定，刷，发朋友圈没有压力。我们买的8天卡，43元/张。</p>
<p>.........................................................................?..............................................................................</p>
<p>北海道 的冬是纯白的，就像你结婚那天穿起的那套婚纱一样雪白；</p>
<p>北海道 的夏是彩色的，我们这次把 北海道 的 美瑛町 ， 富良野 落下了，就是想等着我们周年纪念日的那天，重新回来 北海道 这里，看繁花盛开，闻花香，听鸟语。</p>
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