菲律宾民都洛（二）
<div data-seq="245796366" data-index="1" class="article_title _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem"><h2 class="t9"><span class="_j_anchor">D5 6.1Sablayan</span></h2>
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="245807273">
晴转阴雨Halo Halo<br><br>
6点醒过来，天已大亮。处在Mindoro的西端，没想过去寻找初升的太阳，就独自在床上享受着片刻的宁静。约莫20分钟，发好呆，紧紧拥着相机去树林里随意走走。<br>
这度假村仅有十余幢小楼，近看时发现每一幢的配置都有不同，Carolina House Duplex/Maria House等等，原来推荐给我的还不是最经济型的，发现其中一幢放着青旅的床位，应该更便宜。
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="245807354">
度假村占地面积庞大，椰子树和黑色沙滩占据了大部分空间，若论与自然的亲近，可称一流。但所有房间都没有热水，空调也不是标配，以天朝人的眼光来看，难免有些山寨感。靠近海岸的林子里立着几间简单的棚屋，配有长椅和木桌。我进来时瞅见吧台附近有价格牌，写着门票、棚屋、木桌&长椅、进出Pandan等等活动项目的价格，猜测那对应的就是这些设施，想必是写给非住店客人的。黑色沙滩上，只有排球网孤单的身影，南北Pandan二岛像两个忠实的伙伴立在水中，洁白的云朵在他们背后蔚蓝的天空中肆意变着花样撒娇，它们一起陪伴着这片大地。
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="245807475">
海岸边有一架小推车好像在凹造型；远处海面上能看见早起的渔人已经开始奔波劳作；再远处，群山在雾霭中隐隐约约、层峦叠嶂，透着谦逊
平和
的气息。树林里，狗妈妈带着四个孩子矫健敏捷得穿梭奔走；店里，员工的孩子靠在椅子上无聊的按着遥控器，电视机沙沙的响着……
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="245807669">
回屋稍事休息，8点多我又跑出来一次，看到的景色并无二样，在排球网上晒了昨晚洗的一件衣服，带着9比索的干粮去吧台吃早饭。Suanie递给我电视机遥控器，叫我一切自助。早餐的时间还算清闲，之后的整个上午就一直被工作折磨着。邮件、电话来来去去，偏远之地信号时好时坏，工作效率极其低下。原来一早赶往Gustav的想法暂时搁置。
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="245808183">
10点多去和Suanie商量自己的行程，说着说着就跑了题。<br>
Suanie与Lito相同，60年代生人。她的老家在吕宋岛北部，年轻时在
苏比克
城附近的大学读商务管理，在企业、酒店从事管理和行政秘书多年，至今孑然一身，过着独立的单身生活。曾经有位
加拿大
的客人真诚的追求过她，在相夫教子与追随内心的自由之间，她还是毅然决然选择了后者。如今作为50多岁的度假村经理，仅看这个矮胖女人的外表，难以再觅到她年轻时苗条伶俐的身形，但当你与她深入交谈，你能感受到存在于她内心的那种自信、善于变通的女王气质。她的目光已经不再像少女般清澈，但仍然随时散发出或多情的魅力，或是坚毅的魄力感。自从十多年前她在Manila遇到度假村的前老板，便开始与这块土地携手直到今天。前老板生命垂危之际，曾经最放心不下的就是Suanie这样可靠的助手，Suanie答应继续照看老板的产业，直到今天。如今，Suanie在Sablayan小镇早已尽人皆知。每天，这位女士穿着随意的汗衫短裤或坐或躺，没有给自己标榜任何高贵的标签，同时低调经营着镇上的一家收费电台，就这样过着平静而有序的生活。<br>
最后说到Fun Dive，Suanie突然告诉我，不必要为了Fun Dive而换地方，这里一直有Fun Dive的DM。原来她误以为我的目标只有Apo Reef，而我以为我已经表达的十分清楚。很快，我见到了驾着越野摩托车飞驰而来的DM Toto。加上另一个徒步的向导，我们四个人又继续大聊特聊了一个多小时，天朝人、霓虹国人、泡菜国人……各种人群有趣的事情。天朝始终是人们目光的焦点，国家政客之间的岛争完全不在我们的讨论范围之内，谈的更多的是人本身。曾经有人在水下独自脱队与珊瑚亲近，DM着急的找了十几分钟；曾经一票人马的潜水经验参差不齐，吵着闹着请DM带他们深潜。Toto满脸坎坷，长得像个下地的农民，大学专业竟正是农作物研究。原来做DM只是兼职，他在镇上农业所有固定的工作，老婆暂时不在身边，自己照顾两个孩子，这两天正忙着张罗请一位钟点阿姨来照顾家人的起居。聊的兴起，Toto问我是否尝过Halo Halo。我看到过“Halo Halo”写在吧台的小黑板上，知道那是一种食物。他像个带头大哥似的，豪爽的挥手招呼服务员，给每人叫来一份Halo Halo——原来就是一大杯五颜六色的冰沙甜点饮料，投入了奶昔和各种颜色鲜艳的果子，视觉效果远好于实际的口感。如此相谈甚欢，当天的安排就继续定在Adventure Park，约定下午1点半潜水，续住一晚。我问Suanie青旅床位的价格，她给了我第一晚的折扣价，不让我再换房间，这样，咱必须得领情啊。<br>
我回房拿东西，又被邮件缠住，磨蹭到1点1刻才出门吃饭。<br>
阳光直射在脖子上，烧灼滚烫，感觉自己很快就会成为熟透的烤肉。<br>
市场里吃饭时，抬头瞅见柜台上色彩鲜艳的玻璃瓶整齐排着队，恍然发现里面盛的正是Halo Halo的原料。若不是Toto的热情款待，我对这片彩色又要浑然不觉的擦肩而过了。拐到邮局求戳时，遇到小小的意外。两个邮政大哥一本正经的向我解释邮资与邮寄的正规性要求，甚至很挂怀的问我，到底是谁在我的明信片上盖了邮戳。我有点着急，手舞足蹈的讲述自己身兼快递员的角色。两位大哥久经风浪，心静如水，听懂时和没听懂时神态、语速没有任何变化。言语之间又花了点时间，好在最终对方终于明白了我的意思，皆大欢喜，拿到邮戳，为共建天菲两国
友谊
出了把力。
</p>
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="245808605">
等我跑回来已经1点50，迟到20分钟。Toto等的有些无聊，他指着树林外的天空，说远处云层会过来，有要下雨的迹象，两潜估计没戏，我只有点头。检查装备时发现气瓶居然都不满，我们上船先跑到North Pandan
法国
人开的度假村，换了满装的气瓶，再绕到小岛北部下水。<br>
头一次直接迈大步入水，Toto只是在下面催促，没有任何指点。我自己心生焦虑，面罩受冲击进水，呛得很不舒服。后面整个过程都是这样催促的压力下完成的。外面天气晴转阴，水下能见度对应降低。自己的面罩总是持续进水，Toto老司机又很喜欢在拉开距离时，敲自己的气瓶示意，水中声音传递的更清晰迅速，但我的感受并不好。<br>
回程到Adventure Camp岸边时，发现浅海中布满了嬉戏的游客，这里俨然是当地人的天然水上乐园。在Sabang河与南北Pandan二岛的自然演化下，Sablayan小镇角落里的这块黑沙滩水流平静温暖，海床平缓细腻，一面背靠婆娑的椰林，另一面得到两座岛屿的庇佑，每天不同时段上演着不同的色彩和魅力。十多年前，Suanie已过世的前老板从Manila远道而来选中这块土地，真是极具风水大师和战略性的前瞻眼光。<br>
Toto上岸后一直在打电话，他一手握着电话，另一只手登记了我的潜水手册，North Well， Pandan Island，时间下午5点。我带着相机去海边静静的等日落。这里西面向海，看日出没戏，等日落是来时看着地图给自己许下的小小愿望。<br>
远在天朝的房东打来电话，轻轻松松要涨房租。我没有当场应答，只说考虑考虑。我其实是不想被纯粹的经济算计，打扰了眼前这片宁静的海。人，从远古海洋中单细胞生物漫长演化而来；每一个人，又是在一片温暖的血泊与羊水中挣扎而来；如今，在Mindoro Strait温暖的夕阳下，人们带着欢笑回归这片平静的水域，仿佛是回到自然母亲的怀抱。这景象熟悉又陌生，有点震撼，又很宁静，让人久久难忘。
</p>
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:450px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/38/E8/wKgBZ1m-KQ6AZPMoACeEQBvFrj898.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/38/E8/wKgBZ1m-KQ6AZPMoACeEQBvFrj898.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s10/M00/38/E8/wKgBZ1m-KQ6AZPMoACeEQBvFrj898.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="245801557" alt="">
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="245808888">
村里的孩子们在一艘搁浅的破船边耍着简单的游戏，从他们的神态中看得出他们在生活里承受着不同的东西。有的孩子对我怀里的相机表示好奇，我仍然希望镜头中能够留下他们最自然的瞬间，倘是刻意摆拍，再多的留念也都是重复。
</p>
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="245809094">
Suanie说有个
韩国
孩子下午过来询问Fun Dive，问我次日是否继续下潜。想到下午潜水的压力给左耳朵带来疼痛感，我告诉她第二天早晨视情况再定。<br>
夜里狂风大作，骤雨来袭，空气沉闷，寄居蟹憋晕了脑袋，一个劲儿的往我房间里撞。五六米长的椰子树枝从高空坠落，“嘭”的一声巨响，砸在地上，这要是落在脑袋上，非死即伤啊！我悄悄走向吧台，自己的衣服已经被人收到避雨的地方，这里真的更像一个简单的家。
</p>
<div data-seq="245796426" data-index="2" class="article_title _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem">
<h2 class="t9"><span class="_j_anchor">D6 6.2Sablayan</span></h2>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="245817028">
晴 Lito的摩托车<br><br>
工作持续侵扰，破坏了我的旅行。是的，旅行本身不是完美的，旅行会无聊，会黯淡；但是，这次是工作破坏了我的旅行。<br>
后半夜里风扇停转，热醒了。那是第二次停电，第一次会在午夜12点前。困倦中转过身把头放的更低一些，继续入睡。再次醒来时，见得天光大亮，想到闹钟没叫，知道时间还早，便又混沌过去。再醒来时，已从东方见得阳光，那代表着太阳爬过了Mindoro的最高峰，时间是清晨6点钟。<br>
我斜躺在床上，看着
朝阳
射出的光，透过树林层层的叶子在纯白色床单上慢慢移动，就像一根没有边际的时针在无声的走动。面对日复一日滚滚而来的工作、生存压力，忧愁和犹豫，像这样安静的、清醒的躺在床上赖着，也是一种难得的幸福。<br>
不喜欢重复，同时更是出于对新事务的憧憬，让我下定决心离开这里，换个地方。而且头天的下潜确实带来了左耳的不适，也只有推掉今天上午的潜水计划。和Suanie打招呼商量离开，她的眼睛还是那样会说话似的在动情的挽留我，但我必须离开。早餐时，她告诉我头天的西瓜还在冰箱里，需要的话自己去取。我去拿出来给大家分了一半，大家都还挺高兴。而且经过一天的冷藏，果肉中的水，分离出来，口感明显更甜了。<br></p>
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