2018年菲律宾宿雾薄荷岛游记（蹦谷跳崖，沙丁鱼风暴，鲸鲨）
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="321315717"><br>
5月初我到
菲律宾
宿雾
周边玩了一转，感觉此行可玩性非常高，而且这次挺多朋友对行程安排都有兴趣，我就详细写一篇游记吧，也免得以后年老忘记了。<br><br>宿雾
是
菲律宾
的第二
大城
市，是一个狭长型的巨大岛屿，我一开始觉得行程都在一个岛附近，应该交通出行很轻松。
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然而做行程时发现我错了，
澳门
面积是32平方公里，而
宿雾
有4700平方公里！薄荷也有4200平方公里！
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所以其实每个景点离得特别远，见下图。
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="321317103">
我的主要路线是“
宿雾
- 墨宝 - 奥斯洛布 -
邦劳
- 薄荷 -
宿雾
”这样一个逆时针游玩。至于
杜马盖地
和锡岛，我认为没有特别吸引我的地方，所以就直接跳过了。
</p>
<div data-seq="321317775" data-index="1" class="article_title _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem">
<h2 class="t9"><span class="_j_anchor">DAY1 香港飞宿雾</span></h2>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="321317776">
<br>
原本可以从
澳门
直接搭1小时快船到
香港
机场，然而码头没有和
宿雾
太平洋航空合作。意味着我需要先搭船去
香港
上环，再转两次地铁前往机场。。。出师不利，还好时间留的充足。<br><br>香港
到
宿雾
大约飞行3小时，出机场后可搭白色的士到酒店，第一晚住的酒店是Red Planet，这个品牌因为之前在
芭提雅
住过印象很好，结果
宿雾
却不是那么回事，周边环境一般，酒店设施也比较简单，对比在
宿雾
的最后一天入住的Bay front（赛步海湾酒店）差了不少。建议在
宿雾
停留的都可直接选择后者。<br></p>
<div data-seq="321318018" data-index="2" class="article_title _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem">
<h2 class="t9"><span class="_j_anchor">DAY2 卡瓦山蹦谷</span></h2>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="321318019">
在
香港
机场候机时认识了两个也去墨宝的朋友，于是便约好第二天一起包车由
宿雾
前往墨宝，用
东南亚
打车神器GRAB叫车1500-2500P。大约3小时车程到达了墨宝镇，那两位去出海浮潜，我则首先前往巴迪安峡谷蹦谷。<br><br>
蹦谷英文叫canyoneering，费用是1500P一人。我和一个
菲律宾
家庭一起组队，由巴迪安峡谷沿着溪流一直徒步到卡瓦山瀑布，全程4-5小时。中间至少会有7次跳崖的体验，从2米到最高的13米！当然不跳也是有路线可以走下去的。徒步过程中通过爬坡，游泳，跳崖等穿越整个峡谷，沿途还顺带观光了。特别是到
达卡
瓦山瀑布后沿着一条清澈的小溪往外走，一路看见还有那么多本地人生活在这个峡谷当中，他们提着菜走在险要的木桥上，又或是孩子们三三两两在溪流中玩耍，太有生活气息啦。我觉得蹦谷的体验算是这次行程中最棒的一天！
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="321340789">
我的5米跳
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="321345067">
以及最后的12米瀑布跳。。。站在边上有些腿软
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="321352327">
蹦谷结束后被同一组的
菲律宾
家庭邀请一起聚餐，吃饭前大家还手拉手做了祷告，感觉挺新鲜。然后
菲律宾
阿姨还一本正经地把她女儿介绍给我。。。
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他们实在太热情了，让我下次再来玩就住他们家里哈哈哈。<br>
愉快地与这个可爱的大家庭告别后，我在路边搭了辆摩托返回墨宝镇。从卡瓦山回去还有20公里的路程，此时已经下午五点多，夕阳透过海岸边的一颗颗椰子树把余晖撒在公路上，坐在摩托上看着身边蔚蓝的大海，迎面吹着清新的风，这一刻太惬意了！<br></p>
<div data-seq="321356093" data-index="3" class="article_title _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem">
<h2 class="t9"><span class="_j_anchor">DAY3 墨宝沙丁鱼风暴</span></h2>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="321385439">
在墨宝的住宿我选择的是Pescadores Seaview Suites（
澎湖
湾海景套房酒店），好处是就在观赏沙丁鱼的海岸边，并且非常安静，大约走几分钟又可到海岸最热闹的区域。前台还给了配套设施的指引，包括：浮潜用具和救生衣可以免费租借，有透明小船可以租借，也可以在房间里做马杀鸡（400p/h）<br></p>
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="321388808">
早上7点我就醒了，因为昨晚跟海边的潜店预定了中午12点深潜。还有那么多时间，当然不能浪费了。在酒店吃完早餐后，跟前台拿了件救生衣，就兴致勃勃地下海浮潜，就在住的房间门口出去！整个一片海域一个人都没有，只有几艘螃蟹船停靠着！<br><br>
往外游了100米左右，到了螃蟹船的位置，这里有一个明显的断层，浅的位置大约有五六米水深，而另一边则应该有三十米左右，海水呈现出深蓝色。我没再往外面继续游，停留在船附近看鱼。在那里浮潜了半个钟头，一个人感觉实在有点无聊了。。。便往回游，中途经过一片珊瑚礁时，身下有个大东西动了一下，把我吓了一跳。原来是一只大海龟！这种感觉太让人惊喜了，没有一点准备的不期而遇，是我闯入了它的领域吧。
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="321424967">
陪着海龟游了一阵，我回到房间休息片刻，养精蓄锐准备中午深潜看沙丁鱼风暴。墨宝是一个潜水旅游重镇，许多潜水爱好者都会到此游玩，不仅因为这里有适合浮潜的Pescador岛，更因为在这里可以看到巨大的沙丁鱼群。沙丁鱼基本算是大海中的肉鸡，本身不特别，不过正因为弱小，它们只好靠聚集在一起来确保自身的安全和种群的延续，这就形成了壮观的沙丁鱼风暴。
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="321432852">
日本
人开的潜店，M&L DIVER TOWN，价格公道，装备新净。体验潜水一次2000P。<br><br>
下海游到断层附近，潜导便指向一片黑压压的区域示意我游过去。那边能见度这么差，还有个峭壁下去，好歹我也是无证潜水好么。实际上潜导小黑除了在岸上帮我带装备，全程没碰我，离我也比较远，当然这样帮我拍照会更好。不过有一两次我硬是在15米左右的深度左看右望没找到他人在何处。
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还好之前有过潜水经验，对于基本的水下操作也算熟悉了，我觉得第一次深潜的朋友在下海之前一定要跟潜导交代清楚，千万让他把你拎紧了。<br>
话说回来，往那片黑云越游越近，数以百万的沙丁鱼群呈现在了我的眼前，看上去就像是移动着的一扇巨墙。靠得更近，甚至被它们包围了起来，这种感觉太震撼了，真的就像置身于海洋的暴风眼中。。。<br></p>
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/F8/27/wKgBEFr1vJyAAH26AAWe6d4gdUI75.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/F8/27/wKgBEFr1vJyAAH26AAWe6d4gdUI75.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/F8/27/wKgBEFr1vJyAAH26AAWe6d4gdUI75.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="321445832" alt="">
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="321459019">
心满意足的在水下待了四十五分钟后上岸，肚子也饿了。午餐便在酒店旁边的焚潜水度假村解决，一个咖喱鸡套餐+蔬菜
沙拉
+饮品和冰淇淋一共450P，味道还不错。出发前看网上很多人说
菲律宾
的饭菜难吃，这次我总体感觉下来其实还OK啊，难道是我对食物的要求太低了吗。
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接下来需要前往
宿雾
岛的另一面，奥斯洛布。我采用了搭乘公共大巴转车的方式，两程大巴需要3.5小时。具体搭车路线如下：首先坐TuTu到墨宝的大巴搭乘点，搭乘黄色大巴由墨宝至Bato总站，再由Bato总站转乘前往
宿雾
市的黄色大巴，中途在奥斯洛布下车。全部费用200P搞定。<br><br>
到达奥斯洛布之后步行几分钟就到了今晚的民宿，malonzo pension house。在出行前我与民宿主人沟通好了，让他们帮忙预订观看鲸鲨行程和前往
邦劳
海滩的单程船票。办理完check in，趁还未日落，我便拿着相机在奥斯洛布镇上游荡起来。<br></p>
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/02/C2/wKgBEFr11QSASNUtAAH1i-_fn3E45.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/02/C2/wKgBEFr11QSASNUtAAH1i-_fn3E45.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/02/C2/wKgBEFr11QSASNUtAAH1i-_fn3E45.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="321463600" alt="">
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="321464484">
奥斯洛布是一个很少有游客停留的偏僻小镇，人口仅有几千，这里还有一些17,18世纪
西班牙
殖民时的建筑遗迹，像教堂更是一直使用至今。<br></p>
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/03/87/wKgBEFr118yAZnrAAAkxzl4ylFo84.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/03/87/wKgBEFr118yAZnrAAAkxzl4ylFo84.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/03/87/wKgBEFr118yAZnrAAAkxzl4ylFo84.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="321465401" alt="">
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="321465661">
整个小镇最热闹的地方是这片靠海的草坪，乡民们在这里唱歌跳舞，小孩子则追逐嬉闹着，大家都挺会自娱自乐的。
</p>
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/03/C6/wKgBEFr12QOAVwN3AAcnQFS-V9842.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/03/C6/wKgBEFr12QOAVwN3AAcnQFS-V9842.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/03/C6/wKgBEFr12QOAVwN3AAcnQFS-V9842.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="321465848" alt="">
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="321465948">
一个自带仙气的小妹妹<br></p>
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/04/24/wKgBEFr12bKAf8kSACUQy6ypFfU16.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/04/24/wKgBEFr12bKAf8kSACUQy6ypFfU16.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/04/24/wKgBEFr12bKAf8kSACUQy6ypFfU16.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="321466359" alt="">
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="321466615">
天色渐晚，人们慢慢散去。
</p>
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</div>
<div data-seq="321470385" data-index="4" class="article_title _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem">
<h2 class="t9"><span class="_j_anchor">DAY4 奥斯洛布的鲸鲨</span></h2>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="321777274">
今天的行程是我最期待的与鲸鲨共游，早上5点半民宿老板的
皮卡
车就在门口等着了。看鲸鲨的最佳时间是早上6点到11点，当地的渔民会在观赏点投放食物吸引鲸鲨前来进食，最多会有十来条鲸鲨到来。<br>
从奥斯洛布镇到鲸鲨观赏点还有15分钟的车程，来回车资加看鲸鲨一共1100P，到达目的地后司机便帮忙购票，并且无需等待就安排上了看鲸鲨的小船。清晨六点多，已经有二十条小船在海面以弧形的队形排开，近的大概离岸50米，远的有200米。我们的船往外划时还险些出了意外，船体两侧的竹竿差一点点撞到一个浮潜女孩的头，我们大声的叫喊，就在竹竿冲着她去的前一秒，她回头看了眼然后刚好躲开，真的太危险了！
</p>
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/CE/6E/wKgBEFr3HbCAIyiYAAjftLQNnY451.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/CE/6E/wKgBEFr3HbCAIyiYAAjftLQNnY451.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/CE/6E/wKgBEFr3HbCAIyiYAAjftLQNnY451.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="321792815" alt="">
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="321793003">
我认为看鲸鲨的场面是比较混乱的，整体体验并不算好。一艘小船大约坐了十个游客，船头船尾各有一个工作人员，但他们好像心不在焉，三心二意的。像刚才的情况两头船员应该盯仔细才是，如果就这么撞过去那个女孩不当场晕掉马上拿我去喂鱼！停好船后，小黑就示意大家下海，救生衣没有硬性要求，水性不好的一定记得穿上。
</p>
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