一个人的妈妈岛潜水之旅
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="403333124">旅行目的：潜水。只有潜水。<br>
目的地：
菲律宾
马拉帕斯加岛，俗称妈妈拍丝瓜岛。<br>
时间：2018.11.9-2018.11.17<br>
行程：
重庆
-宿务-马拉帕斯加-宿务-
重庆
<br>
预算：8k，实际花了6k+，因为没潜到计划的那么多。很多花费没记，说下大概：<br>
-机票 1789人民币<br>
-潜水 9潜14250比索 <br>
-住宿 约700人民币（住了两晚免费宿舍）<br>
-设备：买电筒195+买潜水头套39+租潜水壳240+租潜水表130=604人民币<br>
-签证 235人民币<br>
-保险 108人民币<br>
-电话卡 48人民币<br>
剩下的基本就是交通和饮食，岛上在餐厅吃饭的话消费不低，很普通的也在200p左右，摊上便宜些，但围着一堆苍蝇，虽然有盖子盖着，但还是很毁食欲。水果也不算便宜，买过两根小香蕉40p，芒果3个145p。其实岛上旺季的住宿也不便宜，我11月10号去岛上已经开始进入旺季了，下面介绍下我选的潜店。<br>
住宿和潜店我选择的是岛上的Thresher Cove Dive Resort，它是个有自己潜水中心店度假村，它有床位，也有小木屋（经济房）和所谓的豪华房，床位三四十人民币，应该算是岛上最便宜的落脚处之一了。我开始想选鱼兄弟的，但他们提供的住宿需要补房差。我是一个人去，定位也是穷游，就在岛上搜床位，然后要潜水的话住宿和潜店一定要够近，最后就找到了这家。这家店单独在岛的北边，评论都说很安静，我觉得应该会很适合我这种不想凑热闹的。后来我在tripadviser上看到他家有个限时优惠，说是一天潜水两次就可以有免费宿舍，于是我通过tripadisor上他家的邮箱发邮件询问了这个优惠是不是有，顺便问了下潜水的收费标准。这个动作为我省了一笔小钱，因为回复我的Mark（应该是老板）跟我确认了这个优惠，而且他回复给我的价格比我之前在其他游记里看到的他家的官方价格要低一些，设备也是免费的。后来我去的时候前台的员工并不清楚（而且好像也不相信）这个优惠，但出示邮件记录后还是顺利拿到优惠了。值得一提的是结算的时候你一定要检查他打出来的单子，我这单子就改了两遍。一遍是虽然我来之前已经给他看过Mark的邮件，他还是以官方价格收的费，我指出来后又给他看了遍邮件他才改了一遍，但这一遍单价改了单价后面的合计数没改，还多收了我的手电筒租用费，我是有自己的手电筒的，于是又改了一遍。以下是最后的潜水收费清单：
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这里面除了fundive的费用还有650的各潜点的税费和远一些潜点的船费，我觉得收费还是合理的。<br>
再来讲讲Thresher Cove Dive Resort的住宿。这儿位置远离村庄，出行要靠摩托车，白天单程20p，晚上40p，走路我慢慢走大概二十几分钟。坏处是出去吃饭买东西都不方便，好处是安静，有一块私人沙滩，潜水的话直接在这里出发，只有他们自己的船停靠，环境比较单纯，潜水中心，住宿和沙滩靠得近潜水也很方便。再说房间，我只住过他家宿舍和小木屋（海滩cabana）。之前说过在这儿潜水两次一天就有免费宿舍，但第一晚我提前定了小木屋，我很喜欢。小木屋一开门就是私人沙滩，走动的人很少，基本就是几个打扫和巡视的员工和旁边小木屋的住客。周围没什么光污染，晚上就躺在沙滩上的躺椅看星星，特别棒。<br></p>
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="405031461">
但小木屋很抢手，没订到连续的几天，最后就断断续续定了几次，没位置就搬去宿舍，结果最后我住了两晚宿舍，其他几晚把3间小木屋都住了一遍……那儿员工肯定觉得我很麻烦，我自己也觉得挺折腾的。主要是确实不太喜欢宿舍，宿舍有十四个床位，没有窗，而且宿舍靠近养鸡的地方，早上很早就会被鸡叫吵醒。但宿舍有空调，小木屋只有风扇。不过其实11月的天气不是很怕热的话不需要开空调，我在小木屋连风扇都没怎么开，开着门吹海风就够了。三间小木屋中间的最小，目测6平米，只能放一张0.8米的单人床和一个小床头柜，床边放行李，落地扇在床头柜上。这间定的时候网站显示是经济单人间。另两间稍大，但也就床大一点点，可能一米或一米二吧，但网站上显示的是经济双人间。我觉得睡两个人会很挤。三间小木屋后面几米的地方有厕所和浴室，分开的，浴室只有冷水，要洗热水澡要去餐厅后面的厕所，也不远。这岛上我最不喜欢的就是他们没有日用的
淡水
，洗澡洗衣服的水是岛上的井水，但妈妈岛实在太小了，井水黄黄的咸咸的，呆了一周回来我头发变得很干涩毛躁。总的来说条件挺简陋的，不过岛上应该都差不多。<br>
说一下潜点吧。店里一般一天安排4潜，早晚基本是确定的，早上看长尾鲨晚上看麒麟鱼，中间人够的话去外岛两潜，不够的话就在附近的潜点。你也可以提要求，去附近特定的潜点或在附近多潜一次，他们都可以安排。很推荐去外岛，虽然要多交些船费，但真的很漂亮。我最喜欢的是aquariumm island,大片大片的珊瑚，很多鱼，生命力极强。那儿还有个很小很小的岛，岛上有一个老人和一条狗，上岛要收100p，但很漂亮，适合拍照，推荐去看看。<br></p>
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="404972586">
<br>
吃饭的话，度假村里有餐厅，但价格比外面贵些，味道还行。我在餐厅吃的次数不多，大概只有两三次，带了3次
三明
治当去外岛时的午餐，最后结算花了1120p。我第一次在餐厅吃的是这个tinola，当时我潜水回来晕船，胃很不舒服，让服务员推荐的。记得是看见里面有姜就要了，想驱驱寒。端上来后看上去让人很没胃口，味道却是不错，菜都挺新鲜的，确实也比较开胃，我都吃光喝光了。这算是我在这餐厅吃的最好吃的东西，后面的都一般。<br></p>
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="404977945">
岛上餐厅的通病是上菜慢，只有你一个人也可能等半个小时。后来有次晚上餐厅人很多，我懒得等，就准备坐摩托跑村里觅食。下来发现度假村下面搭棚子卖鲨鱼木作的地方居然在卖烧烤，就决定就在这儿吃了，结果他卖的烧烤只有三种：鸡爪/某种猪肉肠/五花肉。连个鸡腿鸡翅都没有啊，宝宝心里苦。要了两串五花肉一串猪肉肠试水，看到旁边还有一锅汤，问了听起来像是mango soup，好奇也要了一碗。店家很淳朴，其实他们这种店卖的东西当地人都是用塑料袋装着带走的，没有吃的地方，但他们特意把备菜的桌子收拾出来，给我准备了碗和餐具，让我坐着吃，感动。后来
汤加
热端上来，跟芒果并没有什么关系，就是咸的绿豆汤，可能还有别的什么，没吃出来。串呢烤得很焦，酱是甜甜的那种，我不太喜欢，就没再要了。吃完又在旁边橘色房子的小卖部买了点零食，一顿晚饭就糊弄过去了。后来我又去这个小棚子吃过两次，其实它主要是卖早餐的，早上种类多一些，也有绿豆汤（绿豆汤应该是他们一早熬的，没见有冰箱，所以还是不建议晚上喝了）。下午他们会卖炸香蕉，感觉是黑暗料理但我看见好几个摩托车小哥在吃就也要了一个，很神奇的口感，香蕉不像是我们平常吃的那种。当时觉得说不上好吃，但后来有天我发现自己居然有点想念它，很神奇。<br>
在村里我也跑了几家餐厅，都是在tripadvisor上评价较好的。一家是
大名
鼎鼎的
安吉
丽娜，点了空心粉和提拉米苏，挺失望的。我不懂它是不是正宗，单就这两道菜的味道来说我觉得这种水平在
重庆
挺普通的。价格还贵，花了我600p。
</p>
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:906px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/40/E5/wKgED1wCVGyAcCFqAAx_36wV-bg69.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/40/E5/wKgED1wCVGyAcCFqAAx_36wV-bg69.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/40/E5/wKgED1wCVGyAcCFqAAx_36wV-bg69.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="404988064" alt="">
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:906px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/40/E6/wKgED1wCVG2AboRIAA5yy3fikfI30.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/40/E6/wKgED1wCVG2AboRIAA5yy3fikfI30.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/40/E6/wKgED1wCVG2AboRIAA5yy3fikfI30.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="404988069" alt="">
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:906px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/40/E7/wKgED1wCVG-AOh77ABDBN2WdFL440.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/40/E7/wKgED1wCVG-AOh77ABDBN2WdFL440.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/40/E7/wKgED1wCVG-AOh77ABDBN2WdFL440.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="404988073" alt="">
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="404988407">
我在岛上吃的最好吃的一餐是在villa Sandra guesthouse，它是一家带素食餐厅的民宿，也对外提供食物。那天我又晕船，让她推荐分量小的，或许可以缓解我晕船的食物，她开始一直不明白，后来推荐了一种炒粉和有机茶，我是菜端上来才知道点的是炒粉。。平常我都很少吃的，但这个味
道真
的很不错。有机茶很小一杯，味道非常好，我后来加点了一杯。<br></p>
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:906px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/43/1B/wKgED1wCVq6AdwQDAA0tFehE9Yc24.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/43/1B/wKgED1wCVq6AdwQDAA0tFehE9Yc24.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/43/1B/wKgED1wCVq6AdwQDAA0tFehE9Yc24.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="404990379" alt="">
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="404990833">
后来还去了mr kwiz吃有人推荐的蓝带鸡排，是鸡排里塞进了奶酪来炸，我吃的那块中间是生的……
</p>
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:906px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/5E/59/wKgED1wCcViAB8JIAA2dmAqCsuc74.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/5E/59/wKgED1wCcViAB8JIAA2dmAqCsuc74.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/5E/59/wKgED1wCcViAB8JIAA2dmAqCsuc74.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="405027894" alt="">
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="405027896">
又去了bakhaw kiwi，没留下什么印象。后面两天我已经对探店失去了热情，对岛上的食物也厌倦了，几乎靠水果和小卖部的牛奶零食度日。但后来我遇到了我在岛上的“贵人”，是度假村里只搭过一次话的妹子，因为他们来得比较早，我向她问过岛上有没有什么好吃的。第二天晚上我在度假村的前台旁边蹭网，她突然提着一只烤鸡出现了，说是特意为我带的，碰运气看我在不在，刚好就发现我在那儿。开始我不相信，让我吃我也没好意思吃，后来她同伴回来，说真的是给我带的，他们都吃过了，真的超级感动。而且烤鸡本身味道也很好，是岛上养的斗鸡，用锡纸包着烤的，不像岛上一贯的烧烤爱烤焦的那种。一顿烤鸡，把我从零食和对火锅的思念中解救出来了。我不知道是他们在哪里买的，不过如果你在岛上发现有卖锡纸包着的烤鸡，可以一试。<br>
吐槽一下，
菲律宾
这么热的天气，当地人却很喜欢吃很干很燥热的食物，很多油炸的烧烤的
汉堡
三明
治的，回宿务去逛sm也很多披萨啊面包啊烤乳猪之类，真的搞不懂。<br>
交通方面，很多帖子已经说过了，我就不再啰嗦了。唯一有点之前好像没看人提到的是，我回程那天从妈妈岛回maya，到的好像是老maya，我是花了50p坐了摩托车去大巴发车的地方。我不知道是不是我上的船的问题。那天卖票的小亭子没人，是据说是船长的人来收的钱。50p我没讲价，按路程来看感觉是贵了。不过也是小问题，总的来说还是挺顺利。<br>
从maya回宿务那天是星期六，堵车严重，大巴开了接近6个小时。大家要预留好时间。我晚上9点多的飞机，下午到宿务后原计划是把行李寄存在宿务汽车北站后去逛几个景点，结果车站居然找不到寄存的地方，只好打grab去sm寄存，顺便吃个饭。车上司机跟我说sm有个traveller lounge，建议我去那儿，可以休息寄存甚至洗个澡，当然是收费的。那儿确实不错，我行李寄存三四个小时好像是收了30p。
</p>
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<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/67/56/wKgED1wCeieALIIKAA2V1ROUbtY03.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/67/56/wKgED1wCeieALIIKAA2V1ROUbtY03.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s12/M00/67/56/wKgED1wCeieALIIKAA2V1ROUbtY03.jpeg?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="405039195" alt="">
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="405039197">
后来累了也怕堵车，没去逛景点，就在sm逛了几个小时。sm很大，完全够逛，就是人超多，很多都要排队，星巴克/dq/面包新语甚至贡茶都排着队。<br>
更新一下：晚上到机场交离境税，现在已经是收850p了。
</p>
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<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="405039785">
最后再说一下这次潜水之旅的感受吧。这次潜水之旅，给我的感受是还不错，但远没前几次计划的出游那么让自己心满意足。我觉得最大的原因是目的地妈妈岛的选择。这次我是第一次去
菲律宾
，心中还是有点担心安全。定妈妈岛为目的地是我计划出行之初就确定的，当时一方面是觉得在岛上呆着比较安全，一方面是去年考了潜水证后一直没有潜水，想找个适合新手的地方练练技术。所以即使之前我看过一些评论说妈妈岛没什么看的东西，我还是定下了在妈妈岛呆7天的行程。当时我有个b计划是不好玩就早点离开，去墨宝看我很想看的沙丁鱼风暴。但从妈妈岛去墨宝实在太折腾了，后来这个计划被我放弃了。我原计划在妈妈岛呆的几天，每天3潜，总共18潜，实际最后只做了9潜。现在回头看来，水下的景色很大程度影响了我的积极性。妈妈岛水下多是小东西，我对这些并不怎么感兴趣，甚至长尾鲨也没让我激动，因为大家排排跪远远的看着，能见度也不太好，还不如在水族馆。这次潜水最让我难忘的是那一大片珊瑚，抬头看去，目之所及都是珊瑚，非常震撼人心。我想我要是看到沙丁鱼风暴一定也是，那才是能让我反复回味的风景。所以我觉得我被自己“想提高潜水技术”的想法蒙蔽了，说起来我一年也就一次出游机会，刷瓶没有意义，最应该考虑的是自己最感兴趣的地方，而不是最适合呆几天刷瓶的地方。潜水若失去了乐趣，可是个苦力活。在最后，提醒一下跟我一样是新手想刷瓶的小伙伴，你真正想要的是什么？
</p>
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