带女友玩转菲律宾宿雾（一）探寻环球航海家麦哲伦死前的足迹
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新浪微博：@白嵩首先要感谢菲律宾旅游局此行的邀请，我和女朋友坐在一楼的餐厅里已经是午后，我隔着窗户望着湿漉漉的街道，街上的人皮肤略黑，缓慢的走在街上，看着过路人脸上的表情和着装我猜测着屋外的气温和湿度，昨夜4个半小时午夜飞行所带来的疲惫已散，菲律宾，宿务，一个充满着传奇色彩的城市，接下来的几天我要探寻这里的细枝末节
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菲律宾
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今天恰好是周日，对于宿务来说周日是尤为神圣的一天，这一天你最能体会到信仰的震撼。菲律宾85%的人信奉天主教，起因是1521年一个即将完成人类伟大航海梦想的葡萄牙人带领着他的西班牙船队停靠在宿务的港口，他既是一位航海家同样也扮演着传教和殖民者的角色，此人正是第一个完成环球航海的航海家--麦哲伦，他把一个巨大十字架立在了宿务的街头，如今这座十字架以他的名字命名“麦哲伦十字架”依旧屹立在广场上，十字架身后就是圣婴大教堂，每逢周日，全城的天主教徒都会齐聚圣婴大教堂做弥撒
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圣婴圣殿
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圣婴圣殿
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雨越下越大了，我挤在拥挤的人群中，教堂内外聚集了成千上万虔诚的教徒，每个人都撑着雨伞静静地矗立在雨中，眼神中都闪耀着清泉般的透彻，他们注视着远方的教父，每一个身躯都像是一道光，那是一种来自于内心无声的力量，是信仰让人们如此平静
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圣婴圣殿
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十九世纪前西班牙人统治了菲律宾300多年，信仰也被留存了下来，西班牙人走后菲律宾还遭到了另外两个国家的殖民，分别是美国和日本，我沿着大教堂一路向南大概不到500米就到了圣佩特罗堡，这里已是宿务南部的港口，美国殖民时这里曾是军营，二战时这里是用来抵抗日军的地方
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圣佩特罗堡
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城墙地面的青砖大部分已经改成了土地，我将拖鞋放在一旁，光脚走在如绿毯般柔软的草地上，嫩芽与松软的土轻抚着脚掌，我喜欢这种无需做作的触碰，曾经用于抵抗侵略守护文明的炮台依旧陈放在墙边，炮口指向曾经侵略者来袭的方向，不久一对恋人在炮筒上停留，曾经的武器变成了爱情的长廊，曾经的战场变成了充满生机的花园，爱与和平，这是对历史最好的敬意，对文明最好的诠释
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圣佩特罗堡
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我一路沿着麦哲伦在宿务留下的足迹，感知着这个历史巨人对异国的影响，伟大的革命者也好艺术家也罢，最终的伟大是在于他把生命留给了别人，麦哲伦如有雷同，世界第一个完成环球航海梦想的人，在美梦成真前，命丧此地
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麦哲伦登陆纪念碑
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夜色以至，远处非常典型的西班牙建筑被光点缀的异常夺目，古旧斑驳的建筑上布满了沧桑的色泽，建筑物的棱角之间被星星点点的绿色植物所填充，他像一个静立在远处不语的绅士，虽然身上的西装有些老旧，但那让他的气质更加醉人，这里是麦哲伦登陆关岛的地方，也是埋葬他的地方
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麦哲伦登陆纪念碑
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我环绕在纪念碑的周围，当地的年轻人抱着吉他在这里欢笑歌唱，像是用生活的无暇来与一位长居于此的老者分享着心灵的阳光，纪念碑的正后方有座小亭，亭中屹立着一块不到两米的铜碑，我要找的就是他了
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麦哲伦登陆纪念碑
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在书中我曾感慨过这碑的独到之处，一块碑，正反面分别雕刻着两个敌对人物的名字，麦哲伦和拉布拉布，正面写“1521年4月27日，拉布拉布和他的战士们，在这里打退了西班牙入侵者，杀死了他们的首领麦哲伦。由此，拉普拉普成为击退欧洲侵略者的第一位菲律宾人”
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麦哲伦登陆纪念碑
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碑的反面写着：“费尔南多·麦哲伦，1521年4月27日，死于此地。他是与拉布拉布的战士们交战中死亡的。麦哲伦船队的一艘船只——维多利亚号，在埃尔卡诺的指挥下，于1521年5月1日升帆驶离宿务港，并于1522年9月6日返抵西班牙港口停泊，第一次环球航行就这样完成了。”
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麦哲伦登陆纪念碑
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这就是历史，那些伟大的人物在历史面前已没有好坏之分，只是站在自己的立场上完成内心使命后塑造成了一个个未来的转折点，这些人之所以堪称伟大是因为他们都在遵循内心，而留下的都是历史的回味
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菲律宾
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陌生的夜里，陌生的味道会通过味蕾让身体变的兴奋，用餐的地方叫做Ibiza Beach Club，环境和氛围都是我觉得一个东南亚度假最该有的样子，身后是海滩，酒吧、餐厅、泳池，焰火点缀在围墙的周围，热情与微笑待你进入到最舒适的东南亚频道
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菲律宾
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菲律宾
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晚餐一共有11道菜，主要以各类的烧烤为主，服务生会把烤好的虾、牛肉、鸡肉送到你的餐桌旁，冷暖交替的光线洒在白色的桌布上，耳边传来的是歌手高质量的表演，宿务不愧是菲律宾的音乐之城，这里的音乐人素质都非常高，餐厅内的音响设备同样也为整体效果增分不少
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菲律宾
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食色生香，只有在满足以后你会格外的放松，远离了寒冬，在西太平洋的岛上慢慢的过上一天悠闲的生活，宿务是一座能为你打开一扇门的后花园我在历史的角落等待你与我相遇，完美的一天，给宿务
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本文版权仅归@白嵩 个人所有，转载至其他网站需征求作者许可作者新浪微博：@白嵩各大旅行平台KOL资深媒体人旅行体验师酒店试睡师电视旅游节目主持人2014被“中国电视周”评为“中国十佳旅游节目主持人”中国首届邮轮音乐节“荷尔蒙邮轮音乐节”创始人/总导演新媒体“荷尔蒙电台”创始人/主播
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