菲同凡响的马尼拉
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决定出发时在才蓦然发现，这路上的风景太多太多了，要好好去欣赏，远方还有远方；
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去年7月的盛夏，正好认识一位在 菲律宾 留学过的友人，和她聊起许多关于 菲律宾 的话题。对那里的认知不多，网上更多的是 菲律宾 的海岛潜泳旅游信息，对别的介绍都少之又少...印象中对它较深刻的只是水果， 比如 吕宋芒、香蕉。偶尔会蹦出一个关于 中国 南海 岛屿主权问题，在新闻上会听到它的名字— 菲律宾 ，这就是最初印象了。
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五一假小长假，决定启程去一趟首都 马尼拉 走走
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选择 马尼拉 似乎也没有什么特别理由，就是想看看 菲律宾 的首都
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没想到的是看完后，感触之深，何其之多。
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<h3>马尼拉的落差</h3>
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马尼拉 ，是我听过那么多国家的首都里，中文翻译比较好听的一个了。常说名字是一种美好祝愿，不管是人名还是地名，但是 菲律宾 的这个首都似乎没有得到上帝的眷顾。现金今贫富悬殊的生活差距，让人们感觉不少落差。对于这里的低层人民来说是不幸的，不过也会看到她们为了生计不断去努力赚钱养家生活，没有太多生活以外追求，这不知是不是我理解的知足常乐?
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学会看不同的世界，毕竟当下不一定懂得远方。世界看多了，自然会看到世界的本真，学会不同的包容。
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是的，在 中国 一样有着巨大的贫富悬殊社会，网络有个流行用语——低端人口。多么有讽刺性的词语。现实的生活不会怜悯谁，不会因为谁的身世和身家低而会得到特别的照顾，生活总要继续，我们为之奋斗的是过上美好的生活。我们也没有理由去歧视或者嘲笑别人的低贫，这个世上比我们 富裕 的人很多，比我们穷困的人也很多，所以每当新的一天起来我们都要为自己的生活去努力，只有这样的生活才会充盈，内心才有尊严。
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马尼拉 一行，第一站来到老城区Carriedo Quiapo,这里也是平民百姓较多居住的地方。下榻的酒店在附近，楼下是一排排的骑楼建筑，路中央的天桥上就是轻轨，整条公路白天几乎被遮住阳光。路旁还有各种小贩档口，时不时就有脸吉普车或者三轮摩托车从身边擦过，惊险极了。
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走在Quiapo的路上，看到老旧的城区建筑，老旧的交通路灯，还有各种交织横乱的电线，一时难以想象这就是首都的样子！难怪我的朋友说 马尼拉 这个城市有点可怕。但也没什么特别不好印象，毕竟这需要慢慢发展。生活在这里的人们也许都习惯了这里的一切，车水马龙道路，在拥挤中鱼贯而入的行走，每天都需要奔波在忙碌的生计中。
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但愿彼此生活安好！
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来 马尼拉 行走最方便最不塞车的交通就是乘坐它的轻轨交通。 马尼拉 的轨道交通目前运营的是3条路线，每条线路之间换乘是必须要出站买票再入站（确实有点麻烦~）引外人瞩目的是除了配套设施落后之外，就是它就算不是上下班的高峰期也一样的人多拥挤！线路规划较少，而且比较集中在老城区人口密集的地方，所以不管什么时候的 马尼拉 轻轨都是那么人在搭乘。另外有些车厢比较老旧，空调不足是常事，关键 马尼拉 又是赤道城市，所以会在车厢里看到还有乘客自己拿着扇在摇。值得注意的是，马尼拉 轻轨的出入口很多都是单向的，如果走错出口就要穿过马路回到对面出口去，所以一定看清楚出口信息。
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<h3>马尼拉的中国城</h3>
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马尼拉 的 中国 城位于老城区里，走进点去看各种老式建筑和杂乱的电线交织街道，让人遐想到八九年代的风貌。这里是 菲律宾 最大的唐人街社区，深巷众多一不小心就会进了死胡同。不算宽阔的街旁人流熙攘显得窄小许多，倒是两旁的商铺的中文招牌的文字显得格外熟悉。
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不知道这里已经奋斗了多少代华人了，都说海外的华人很勤奋很聪明很会拼搏，所以才会今天如此傲人的成就。可惜没有遇到多少的华人，因为这里店铺虽然是华人老板但员工都是当地 菲律宾 人，少有见到华人老板在店里。偶尔会在中式菜馆会听到一些华人相聚在一起谈笑风生，除此之外就很少在 中国城见到华人了。
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<h3>Intramuros西班牙王城</h3>
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好像这里是 马尼拉 必游的一个景点，确实很有历史感。从前这里是 马尼拉 的殖民中心， 西班牙 人在这里修建了很具规模的一个王城区。许多游客会在乘坐各式各样的游览车巡游城区，但我自己没有去czuo，就想走走看看。
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沿着城墙一路走去，看着被岁月赋予沧桑的墙块像似在向世人诉说它应有的使命。在城区里头最著名的就是Cathedral 马尼拉 大教堂，华美而庄严内部，彩色的窗户散发出各种异彩景象。教堂至今还是一个宗教场所，平日还会有祷告礼拜活动，所以进去还是要小心翼翼，避免惊扰正常的宗教活动。
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<img class="product-img" m="图片加载_成功_帖子详情" data-src="https://p4-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/A0/49/wKgBEFteFn2ADGOaAAt3cJrWYvM72.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" src="https://p4-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/A0/49/wKgBEFteFn2ADGOaAAt3cJrWYvM72.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90">
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马尼拉大教堂
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<img class="product-img" m="图片加载_成功_帖子详情" data-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/A0/4A/wKgBEFteFoSAHWs7AApuP4bt8iw04.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/A0/4A/wKgBEFteFoSAHWs7AApuP4bt8iw04.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90">
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离开大教堂就前往下个景点St.Agustin Church 圣奥古斯丁 教堂，这个教堂准确点来说更像一个宗教修道院，里面有教堂，还有修道人员的住所和学习生活的地方。超过四百年历史，还被列入联合国世界文化遗憾名录，据说历代 菲律宾 的高官和宗教人士都在此埋骨，可见这里的人民对宗教的虔诚。
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惊叹的是墙壁上得石刻浮雕富丽堂皇，很值得一看里面还珍藏不少古董，印象最深的就是一把源致 中国上海 制造的百灵牌的小提琴，看年份已过百年历史了。
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<img class="product-img" m="图片加载_成功_帖子详情" data-src="https://b3-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/A0/AB/wKgBEFteGbGAf4OaAAooLRXRK_Q39.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" src="https://b3-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/A0/AB/wKgBEFteGbGAf4OaAAooLRXRK_Q39.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90">
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逛完 圣奥古斯丁 教堂后，就走到最里面的景点圣地亚哥城堡。据说这是当年 西班牙 殖民者为为了防止敌人入侵而修建的一处工事，当时城堡也是当时殖民权力的中心，里面还有各种城防要塞和炮台的遗址，不过在二战时期毁于战火，现在大家看到的都是战后重建的景观。
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<img class="product-img" m="图片加载_成功_帖子详情" data-src="https://b2-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/A1/0A/wKgBEFteHJmAGQAxAArvQulYbB042.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" src="https://b2-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/A1/0A/wKgBEFteHJmAGQAxAArvQulYbB042.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90">
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圣地亚哥城堡
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<img class="product-img" m="图片加载_成功_帖子详情" data-src="https://b3-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/60/62/wKgBEFtof7qAeMhxABAtJ4QI8tg72.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" src="https://b3-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/60/62/wKgBEFtof7qAeMhxABAtJ4QI8tg72.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90">
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<h3>黎刹公园不友好的印象</h3>
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黎刹公园是为了纪念 菲律宾 国父Rizal（黎刹)而命名的一个休闲公园，附近还有几个博物馆，在 马尼拉 是比较有名的旅游景点之一。当初选择到公园是想看看园里的黎刹雕像和附近的博物馆，但一进园里就遇到不好的印象了。
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首先是被一位欧美的帅哥在销售卡片，有点诧异之外没什么特有趣的，而且我也习惯在国内被街边的销售人员随机搭讪销售，倒是知道怎么敷衍了事。完了后没走过远，遇到两位中年 菲律宾 女士前来搭讪，用着浓厚的菲式英语口音和我聊起旅游事宜，当她们知道我来自 中国 后，便一个劲推荐带我去 马尼拉 中国 城（刚好前一天我已经去完了），也不知道她们俩有什么意图，所以我只好解释还要去看附近博物馆没空前去 中国 城，这才撇下她们的纠缠。经历两回不知所措的搭讪后，我也提高了意识感，不知道为什么有这么奇葩的事会落到我身上，还是自己有过多的揣测...之后临走时，又遇到了一回和之前两位女士一样的搭讪，还是一样推荐去 中国 城，还说坐jeep车去便宜，我依旧用同样的方式婉拒了。
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<img class="product-img" m="图片加载_成功_帖子详情" data-src="https://n4-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/64/B3/wKgBEFtoiiiAT7rQAAndvPWcOJA28.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" src="https://n4-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/64/B3/wKgBEFtoiiiAT7rQAAndvPWcOJA28.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90">
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<img class="product-img" m="图片加载_成功_帖子详情" data-src="https://p3-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/64/AE/wKgBEFtoihuARgcdAA_RwGhETtU51.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" src="https://p3-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/64/AE/wKgBEFtoihuARgcdAA_RwGhETtU51.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90">
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<img class="product-img" m="图片加载_成功_帖子详情" data-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/64/B4/wKgBEFtoiiqANVwsAAgjighwnH498.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/64/B4/wKgBEFtoiiqANVwsAAgjighwnH498.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90">
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<img class="product-img" m="图片加载_成功_帖子详情" data-src="https://n3-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/64/AB/wKgBEFtoihOAav1_AAgMOZZAr_Q01.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" src="https://n3-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/64/AB/wKgBEFtoihOAav1_AAgMOZZAr_Q01.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90">
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国家人类学博物馆
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<img class="product-img" m="图片加载_成功_帖子详情" data-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/64/AF/wKgBEFtoih2APOVgAAyPmA1Wskw33.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/64/AF/wKgBEFtoih2APOVgAAyPmA1Wskw33.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90">
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<img class="product-img" m="图片加载_成功_帖子详情" data-src="https://p2-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/64/B0/wKgBEFtoih-AY4c3AAn3_UTp6Rw73.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" src="https://p2-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/64/B0/wKgBEFtoih-AY4c3AAn3_UTp6Rw73.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90">
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那天想看黎刹雕像被围栏封住维修，而且天色逐渐暗淡下起短暂小雨，所以不假思索直接奔去博物馆参观了。主要去了 菲律宾 国家博物馆，建筑本身建于1901年，已经上百年历史，本是就是一个文化遗产。里面展览各种人文、艺术、自然、天文、生物、考古等各种藏品展览。有点像是美术馆和历史博物馆的结合，而且门票免费，博物馆是 菲律宾 历史的一个缩影，里面有三层的展览空间，完全走完差不多花掉两个小时左右，里面的艺术作品很真实，至少不像国内赝品展览那样多。如果来 马尼拉 游玩有时间还是可以过这边参观。
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<img class="product-img" m="图片加载_成功_帖子详情" data-src="https://p2-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/64/B1/wKgBEFtoiiGAAWq-AAicWKYczg014.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" src="https://p2-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/64/B1/wKgBEFtoiiGAAWq-AAicWKYczg014.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90">
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<img class="product-img" m="图片加载_成功_帖子详情" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/64/B2/wKgBEFtoiiOAKtmUAAlqlr69VKQ75.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/64/B2/wKgBEFtoiiOAKtmUAAlqlr69VKQ75.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90">
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<img class="product-img" m="图片加载_成功_帖子详情" data-src="https://n3-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/64/B3/wKgBEFtoiiaAcw8BAApsdSCLtwc78.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" src="https://n3-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/64/B3/wKgBEFtoiiaAcw8BAApsdSCLtwc78.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90">
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<h3>走走马卡蒂</h3>
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马卡蒂 算是 马尼拉 CBD了，在这里一眼看尽是摩天高楼和繁华商业街区，与老城区脏乱景象截然不同。这里有各类高档品牌购物广场，休闲娱乐餐厅，还有各国使馆都在此区。不过这里的交通也是相当拥挤，之前试过打的从 马卡蒂 到SM of Asia商场，短短的几公里路程，结果堵了40分钟车程。似乎对于购物不怎么感兴趣的我，也是来走走看看。偶尔想起在老城区看到清贫的景象和这里繁华喧嚣的市貌有着鲜明的对比，心里多少也是有些感概。
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<img class="product-img" m="图片加载_成功_帖子详情" data-src="https://b2-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/5E/98/wKgBEFtofJWAN4YbAAoJP0puDVs48.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" src="https://b2-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/5E/98/wKgBEFtofJWAN4YbAAoJP0puDVs48.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90">
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<img class="product-img" m="图片加载_成功_帖子详情" data-src="https://p4-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/5E/9E/wKgBEFtofJiAaWfGAAbqRvn8tvM81.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" src="https://p4-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/5E/9E/wKgBEFtofJiAaWfGAAbqRvn8tvM81.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90">
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<img class="product-img" m="图片加载_成功_帖子详情" data-src="https://n3-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/5E/FB/wKgBEFtofVaARFTOAArmHDdxcNI66.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" src="https://n3-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/5E/FB/wKgBEFtofVaARFTOAArmHDdxcNI66.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90">
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<img class="product-img" m="图片加载_成功_帖子详情" data-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/5E/A6/wKgBEFtofJ6AUh90AAlj2o7Td4c21.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s11/M00/5E/A6/wKgBEFtofJ6AUh90AAlj2o7Td4c21.jpeg?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90">
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<h3>马尼拉湾的日落</h3>
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马尼拉 湾的黄昏， 像个羞涩的姑娘，含羞地望着无边的天地，不忍离去。感觉是种熟悉的美，在心里徜徉久久。不得不说，这是我对 马尼拉 之行最好的暂别，看完日落后我就要回国。好喜欢这样的黄昏日落，恰好是最向往的一种相别之情，没有难过悲伤，因为我知道过后的夜晚，还有璀璨的星辰陪伴。
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马尼拉 湾的海风吹的正是柔情，吹拂在耳畔还有一丝丝暖意。仿佛再问“何日君再来？”我想不在久远了，因为已念在心里了。
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<h3>临别回国感想</h3>
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短短7天行程，在 马尼拉 走了遍。周边的额城市和其它热门海岛没有去，来 菲律宾 不是专门来潜水游泳，就是想来首都游览一下。之前在马蜂窝上看过一篇关于 马尼拉 的游记，描述了 马尼拉 是"一眼望穿天堂，转瞬瞥见地狱"贫富悬殊的现实生活。在王城区的百姓居住区里，看到她们的房子都是自己用木板简易搭建，没有隔热层，生活简陋，在城区被污染的河道里，看到有贫穷的老百姓用污水洗头，这一幕幕的画面看着触目惊心...
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但是生活还需要继续，他们依然为之努力奋斗，那我们没有不需要什么悲观看待。 菲律宾 是个天主教的国家，她们相信上帝，他们更相信上帝会眷顾努力的人，不然这世界多不公平。
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最后临别回国时，当时是在 SM of Asia商场那边打Grab去机场。因为定错了位置，导致司机绕了整个商场一圈才找到，而且司机一 边和 我保持通话一边在寻找我，顿时感觉人太好了。好不容易上了车，在拥堵的路上和司机有说有笑，一下子忘了路上的拥堵。到达机场时司机还主动加我Facebook，并希望我下次再来 菲律宾 游玩。就这样带愉悦的心情飞回国去， 马尼拉 一行感触很多，看到的世界更加广阔，是我的一次“菲”同凡响之行，下次或许会计划去海岛游，我们下一站再见！
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