在菲律宾的前两大城市看人文：抹不去的殖民印记
<div class="video_wrapper"><div class="add_video _j_seqitem " data-vid="2774599" data-seq="976664682" data-url="http://www.mafengwo.cn/rest/app/note/video/2774599?jsondata=%7B%22data_style%22%3A%22jump%22%7D&type=.m3u8" data-type="2" data-ready="1" data-width="1920" data-height="1080" data-audit="0">
</div>
<div class="video_more _js_needFocus _js_needInitVideoInfo">
<div class="filmming_place place_suggest">
菲律宾
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="976664705">
长车羊第54篇纪行——
菲律宾
（一）<br><br><br></p>
<div data-seq="976665568" data-index="1" class="article_title _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem">
<h2 class="t9"><span class="_j_anchor">一</span></h2>
</div>
<div id="_j_photo_976664249" data-seq="976664293" data-pid="976664249" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px" data-poiid="26151">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:906px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7D/E1/CoUBGV5zsMKAfLDNACI-k-BNDqA342.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7D/E1/CoUBGV5zsMKAfLDNACI-k-BNDqA342.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7D/E1/CoUBGV5zsMKAfLDNACI-k-BNDqA342.JPG?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="976664249" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="house"></i>卡撒马尼拉博物馆
</span>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="976664736">
<br>
去的地方多了，比起想去哪里，有时我更倾向于，哪里便宜去哪里。<br>比如
经常在头条新闻出现的
菲律宾
，就是白菜机票促成的目的地之一。<br><br>
2019年国庆当天
宿务
太平洋航空小放促销，
北京
往返
马尼拉
含税481元就能拿下。尽管廉价航空红眼航班，性价比也算高了，何况我持有十年多次美签，可免签停留7+1天。为了省下行李托运的费用，还特意网购了一个18英寸的登机箱。<br>
此后，又陆续搞定两段菲国境内的航程：
马尼拉
飞
宿务
139元，
薄荷岛
回
马尼拉
103元。票价都很便宜，没想到将要离开却发生一些不愉快：
邦劳
机场值机后安检前被一大妈拦下，背包一起称重略超规定的七公斤，逼着在柜台支付1100比索，官网提前四小时的双倍价格，折合人民币比机票还多二分之一。<br>
实际上整个箱子重量刚好，即使塞着国内穿来的冬衣。亚航如此严格、小气，还要面临航线集体延误，已过起飞时间许久，前序航班仍未出发，难免着急慌乱一肚子气。纵然留出四个小时中转，纵然改签到前一班，也不禁提心吊胆，喝口水都顾不上，毕竟很大可能下一程误机。<br>
到了
马尼拉
，争分夺秒连奔带跑，拦私家车换航站楼，终于赶在截止前五分钟，站在了值机柜台前列。<br><br>
这是我至今为止花费最少的一次出国游，一周下来总共开销大概在2500元。除了四程机票和六晚房费，也包括上网卡，
北京
接送机，当地乘车坐船，
薄荷岛
连续两天参加一日游等吃喝玩乐所有支出。当然，
马尼拉
接机被放鸽子的赔偿，还有晚点三个小时信用卡保险贴补的六百块，都抵扣在内才合出这个预算。<br><br><br></p>
<div data-seq="976665582" data-index="2" class="article_title _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem">
<h2 class="t9"><span class="_j_anchor">二</span></h2>
</div>
<div id="_j_photo_976664250" data-seq="976664294" data-pid="976664250" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7D/F3/CoUBGV5zsMiAJT5gABXF5yy52XE534.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7D/F3/CoUBGV5zsMiAJT5gABXF5yy52XE534.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7D/F3/CoUBGV5zsMiAJT5gABXF5yy52XE534.JPG?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="976664250" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="house"></i>薄荷岛
</span>
</div>
<div id="_j_photo_976664251" data-seq="976664295" data-pid="976664251" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px" data-poiid="5472831">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7D/FE/CoUBGV5zsMuAdrnIABGjLI11PQw848.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7D/FE/CoUBGV5zsMuAdrnIABGjLI11PQw848.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7D/FE/CoUBGV5zsMuAdrnIABGjLI11PQw848.JPG?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="976664251" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="house"></i>巧克力山
</span>
</div>
<div id="_j_photo_976664252" data-seq="976664296" data-pid="976664252" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px" data-poiid="6537404">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/07/CoUBGV5zsM6AJuI4ABHFmj8ADwc869.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/07/CoUBGV5zsM6AJuI4ABHFmj8ADwc869.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/07/CoUBGV5zsM6AJuI4ABHFmj8ADwc869.JPG?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="976664252" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="house"></i>罗博河
</span>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="976664743">
<br>
言归正传。<br>
此行先在
马尼拉
待了两天，接着到
宿务
住了两晚，然后坐船至
薄荷岛
，海上陆地轮番观赏自然风光。<br>薄荷岛
的相关留给下回来讲，这一篇主要谈谈
菲律宾
两个最重要的城市——第一大的
马尼拉
和第二大的
宿务
。<br>
那些西方舶来的教堂和城堡，为何成了这个国家最拿得出手的人文景点？而只在市内转悠看殖民建筑的我，又有怎样的见闻和感受？<br><br></p>
<div data-seq="976665594" data-index="3" class="article_title _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem">
<h2 class="t9"><span class="_j_anchor">三</span></h2>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="976665595">
<br>
首都
马尼拉
，真的是一个很难给人留下好印象的地方。<br><br></p>
<div id="_j_photo_976664253" data-seq="976664297" data-pid="976664253" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:906px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/15/CoUBGV5zsNGAYXKZABKn3e1ObmA357.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/15/CoUBGV5zsNGAYXKZABKn3e1ObmA357.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/15/CoUBGV5zsNGAYXKZABKn3e1ObmA357.JPG?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="976664253" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="house"></i>马尼拉
</span>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="976664761">
<br>马尼拉
民风之差劲我早有耳闻，频发欺诈案乃至爆炸事件，治安可谓公认的不好，被称
亚洲
罪恶之都，或绑架之都。<br>
“迷魂党”劫财的报道让我心生戒备，再者彻夜飞行势必又累又困，为此事先安排了商务车接机。我头一回如此足以证明有多么谨慎，以前在国外最多就是搭出租车，一般情况下都选择地铁轻轨或大巴客车之类省钱的公共交通，即使午夜凌晨落地。<br><br>
早上七点左右入境，到达大厅和行车道来回找了个遍，没看到写我名字的牌子。未收到短信更无人联系，给商家发消息打电话得不到回复，订单里的司机信息还是错的。尽管如此，一夜未眠的我，仍秉承信任担心错过，前后耗了两个钟头。<br>
取现也不太顺利。几台ATM反复试过，明明标有银联LOGO，结果只支持VISA单标卡，一笔差不多50元手续费。最好多准备一些现金，
菲律宾
刷卡并不普及。<br><br>
按照攻略提示，到指定位置打车。都说
马尼拉
的出租车，黄色外观比白色的靠谱，在我强烈要求下，才开启打表器，见我紧盯导航，对方没敢绕路。<br>
后来得知并下载了Grab，网约车计费更加透明，可绑定信用卡支付。或许与
美国
有关的缘故，英语为第二官方语言，仅次于他加禄语通行。<br><br>马尼拉
的市容市貌简直了，以“脏乱差”形容一点不过分，城区道路拥挤不堪，乌烟瘴气不时堵车，才七八公里的路途，花了将近一个小时。<br><br></p>
<div id="_j_photo_976664254" data-seq="976664298" data-pid="976664254" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px" data-poiid="26151">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:906px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/20/CoUBGV5zsNWAAjkPACGaraELP5E251.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/20/CoUBGV5zsNWAAjkPACGaraELP5E251.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/20/CoUBGV5zsNWAAjkPACGaraELP5E251.JPG?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="976664254" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="house"></i>卡撒马尼拉博物馆
</span>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="976664783">
直抵White Knight Hotel Intramuros，号称拥有百年历史的网红酒店，藏在城中城深处。<br></p>
<div class="video_wrapper">
<div class="add_video _j_seqitem " data-vid="2774602" data-seq="976664786" data-url="http://www.mafengwo.cn/rest/app/note/video/2774602?jsondata=%7B%22data_style%22%3A%22jump%22%7D&type=.m3u8" data-type="2" data-ready="1" data-width="606" data-height="1080" data-audit="0">
</div>
<div class="video_more _js_needFocus _js_needInitVideoInfo">
<div class="filmming_place place_suggest">
西班牙王城
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="976664964">
前台坚持下午两点以后才能Check In，大堂沙发躺着两个女生睡得正香。花园走了走花开正好，我便打算顶着困意四周转转。<br>
酒店与卡撒
马尼拉
博物馆（Casa Manila Museum）相连，穿过门楼另有天地，已然挂上圣诞装饰，东西方风俗的融合。<br></p>
<div id="_j_photo_976664255" data-seq="976664299" data-pid="976664255" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:906px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/2A/CoUBGV5zsNiAdl4lABYWvNrWKzM226.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/2A/CoUBGV5zsNiAdl4lABYWvNrWKzM226.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/2A/CoUBGV5zsNiAdl4lABYWvNrWKzM226.JPG?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="976664255" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="house"></i>马尼拉
</span>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="976664968">
西班牙
王城于16世纪建造，即时就是
西班牙
在
菲律宾
的行政、军事和宗教中心，
菲律宾
最早的大学、教堂和修道院都坐落于此。一度只许合法的“白种人”居住，如今城墙、城门古旧略显破败，附近一大片低矮潦草的贫民窟。<br></p>
<div id="_j_photo_976664256" data-seq="976664300" data-pid="976664256" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px" data-poiid="26049">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:906px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/37/CoUBGV5zsNyAbdSYAClNEmKksmo231.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/37/CoUBGV5zsNyAbdSYAClNEmKksmo231.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/37/CoUBGV5zsNyAbdSYAClNEmKksmo231.JPG?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="976664256" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="house"></i>圣.奥古斯汀教堂
</span>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="976664982">
没几步来到四百多年的圣.奥古斯丁（San Agustin）教堂，上下两层各参观了一圈。<br></p>
<div id="_j_photo_976664257" data-seq="976664301" data-pid="976664257" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px" data-poiid="26049">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:906px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/43/CoUBGV5zsOCAFATGAC1iqJmbrhU150.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/43/CoUBGV5zsOCAFATGAC1iqJmbrhU150.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/43/CoUBGV5zsOCAFATGAC1iqJmbrhU150.JPG?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="976664257" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="house"></i>圣.奥古斯汀教堂
</span>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="976664984">
这座历经地震、台风和战火而不倒的石造天主教堂，还是个珍藏着文物与宗教油画的博物馆。<br></p>
<div id="_j_photo_976664258" data-seq="976664302" data-pid="976664258" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px" data-poiid="26049">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/4F/CoUBGV5zsOOAZsOjABU-x8YH_lI178.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/4F/CoUBGV5zsOOAZsOjABU-x8YH_lI178.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/4F/CoUBGV5zsOOAZsOjABU-x8YH_lI178.JPG?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="976664258" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="house"></i>圣.奥古斯汀教堂
</span>
</div>
<div id="_j_photo_976664259" data-seq="976664303" data-pid="976664259" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px" data-poiid="26049">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/58/CoUBGV5zsOaANaF0ABU624xd7tQ587.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/58/CoUBGV5zsOaANaF0ABU624xd7tQ587.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/58/CoUBGV5zsOaANaF0ABU624xd7tQ587.JPG?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="976664259" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="house"></i>圣.奥古斯汀教堂
</span>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="976664988">
外墙石块上的浮雕细致逼真，内部中庭名叫布兰科植物园，个人比较喜欢二楼四方围绕的窗户，其中一间里屋可以凭栏俯瞰，教堂大殿尽收眼底。<br></p>
<div id="_j_photo_976664260" data-seq="976664304" data-pid="976664260" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px" data-poiid="17430">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/62/CoUBGV5zsOqATluqABNZnJT3-BA361.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/62/CoUBGV5zsOqATluqABNZnJT3-BA361.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/62/CoUBGV5zsOqATluqABNZnJT3-BA361.JPG?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="976664260" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="house"></i>西班牙王城
</span>
</div>
<div id="_j_photo_976664261" data-seq="976664305" data-pid="976664261" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/67/CoUBGV5zsOyAb-NFABVlOl9Br2A143.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/67/CoUBGV5zsOyAb-NFABVlOl9Br2A143.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/67/CoUBGV5zsOyAb-NFABVlOl9Br2A143.JPG?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="976664261" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="house"></i>马尼拉
</span>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="976664992">
天气阴雨不定，漫步石块路上，坐地乞讨的孩童络绎不绝。总有马车、三轮车的车夫紧随揽客，越是礼貌谢绝越是穷追不舍，自
罗马
广场
马尼拉
解放碑起就死缠烂打，看他枯瘦佝偻瘸腿残疾，同情心泛滥却也害怕。网上被坑受骗的忠告屡见不鲜：要小心“得寸进尺”更要严防“出尔反尔”。<br></p>
<div id="_j_photo_976664262" data-seq="976664306" data-pid="976664262" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px" data-poiid="26151">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/6C/CoUBGV5zsO-AIDhBAAcndfSgC84697.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/6C/CoUBGV5zsO-AIDhBAAcndfSgC84697.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/6C/CoUBGV5zsO-AIDhBAAcndfSgC84697.JPG?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="976664262" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="house"></i>卡撒马尼拉博物馆
</span>
</div>
<div id="_j_photo_976664263" data-seq="976664307" data-pid="976664263" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px" data-poiid="26151">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/70/CoUBGV5zsPGAJEv5ABNH1ZpuKyU526.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/70/CoUBGV5zsPGAJEv5ABNH1ZpuKyU526.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/70/CoUBGV5zsPGAJEv5ABNH1ZpuKyU526.JPG?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="976664263" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="house"></i>卡撒马尼拉博物馆
</span>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="976665020">
回到酒店。补觉等候的两位已办妥手续上楼入住，我依旧得到“还在打扫”的答复，半躺着正要睡着，突然通知房已开好。<br>
阴暗潮湿陈旧，淋浴忽冷忽热，Wi-Fi一言难尽，手机信号微弱。失望在所难免，还好只睡一夜，算了不纠结了。整理、洗漱、休息，直到傍晚出门。<br><br>
和
北京
并无时差，五点多天就黑了。奔赴黎刹公园（Rizal Park），车多人多谁都不让谁。擦肩而过俩妇人热情搭讪，我冷着脸顾自前行不回应，十一月就祝圣诞节快乐，又问来自哪里，看起来不怀好意。<br>
黎刹公园因纪念
菲律宾
国父约瑟·黎刹(Dr.JoseRizal)得名，1896年黎刹在正门惨遭当局杀害，这里安葬着他的遗骨，高耸着他的石碑。<br>
林荫、草地、人工湖、喷水池、雕塑、旗帜、广场，构建成
马尼拉
最具代表性的市民公园，园内多个专种各国花卉的国际花园，
比如
中国
花园、
日本
花园等，
中国
花园门口矗立着中式牌坊。<br></p>
<div id="_j_photo_976664264" data-seq="976664308" data-pid="976664264" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px" data-poiid="6419881">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:906px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/75/CoUBGV5zsPSAQOQ1ABNGWpFsdSo232.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/75/CoUBGV5zsPSAQOQ1ABNGWpFsdSo232.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/75/CoUBGV5zsPSAQOQ1ABNGWpFsdSo232.JPG?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="976664264" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="house"></i>马尼拉市政厅
</span>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="976665063">
饿了整整一个白天，搜索餐厅搜出SM商场，距离不远在市政厅后面。特别难走的一段路，眼看转个弯就到了，交警告知前路不通，只好原途折回绕道。<br>
仅仅圆顶钟楼亮着光，
马尼拉
市政厅淹没在夜幕中，墙上几盏五角星彩灯，隐隐约约预告着节日气氛。<br><br></p>
<div data-seq="976665620" data-index="4" class="article_title _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem">
<h2 class="t9"><span class="_j_anchor">四</span></h2>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="976665621">
<br>
第二天中午退房，依次游览
马尼拉
大教堂和
圣地亚哥
城堡（Fort Santiago）。<br><br></p>
<div id="_j_photo_976664265" data-seq="976664309" data-pid="976664265" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px" data-poiid="17429">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/7C/CoUBGV5zsPeAPbZHABB3JnWMFKg597.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/7C/CoUBGV5zsPeAPbZHABB3JnWMFKg597.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/7C/CoUBGV5zsPeAPbZHABB3JnWMFKg597.JPG?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="976664265" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="house"></i>马尼拉大教堂
</span>
</div>
<div id="_j_photo_976664266" data-seq="976664310" data-pid="976664266" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px" data-poiid="17429">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/82/CoUBGV5zsPmAe6x5ABQxVqVnVX4208.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/82/CoUBGV5zsPmAe6x5ABQxVqVnVX4208.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/82/CoUBGV5zsPmAe6x5ABQxVqVnVX4208.JPG?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="976664266" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="house"></i>马尼拉大教堂
</span>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="976665090">
1581年始建的
马尼拉
大教堂，已是经过六次修复的容貌，属于典型的
罗马
式拱券结构，具有山形墙和坡屋顶。正面六尊宗教人物立像，顶端缀着小天使和十字架。<br></p>
<div id="_j_photo_976664267" data-seq="976664311" data-pid="976664267" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px" data-poiid="17429">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:906px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/8D/CoUBGV5zsP2ARIUMACDP3NZ4Sz4693.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/8D/CoUBGV5zsP2ARIUMACDP3NZ4Sz4693.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/8D/CoUBGV5zsP2ARIUMACDP3NZ4Sz4693.JPG?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="976664267" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="house"></i>马尼拉大教堂
</span>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="976665095">
迈入层层递进的拱门，五彩缤纷的玫瑰窗大放异彩，边上三间礼拜堂
马赛
克装饰。<br></p>
<div id="_j_photo_976664268" data-seq="976664312" data-pid="976664268" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px" data-poiid="26053">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:494px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/98/CoUBGV5zsQCAIFMNAAwFlhXmxYc542.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/98/CoUBGV5zsQCAIFMNAAwFlhXmxYc542.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/98/CoUBGV5zsQCAIFMNAAwFlhXmxYc542.JPG?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="976664268" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="house"></i>圣地亚哥城堡
</span>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="976665113">
离开
马尼拉
大教堂，不远处穿过街道，即是
圣地亚哥
城堡售票处。入门途经长方形的园地，尽头护城河对岸城门瞩目。<br></p>
<div id="_j_photo_976664269" data-seq="976664313" data-pid="976664269" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px" data-poiid="26053">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/A1/CoUBGV5zsQKAEQ0EABJ7OfR0NF8349.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/A1/CoUBGV5zsQKAEQ0EABJ7OfR0NF8349.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://n1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/A1/CoUBGV5zsQKAEQ0EABJ7OfR0NF8349.JPG?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="976664269" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="house"></i>圣地亚哥城堡
</span>
</div>
<div id="_j_photo_976664270" data-seq="976664314" data-pid="976664270" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px" data-poiid="26053">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/AD/CoUBGV5zsQaABidUABeXoCm5mTU663.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/AD/CoUBGV5zsQaABidUABeXoCm5mTU663.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/AD/CoUBGV5zsQaABidUABeXoCm5mTU663.JPG?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="976664270" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="house"></i>圣地亚哥城堡
</span>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="976665124">
眼前刻有雕画颇具特色的城门，明信片上
马尼拉
代表画面。四百多年前
西班牙
侵略者将城寨改建石堡，以火山石蘸鸭蛋清为建材筑起厚达10米的城墙，城墙上又筑起塔楼和炮台架建成防御要塞。岁月变迁城堡数度易手，不变的是重要军事设施的职能，更挖出幽深水牢用来关押反抗的人民。<br>
二战美日争夺期间，在美军炮弹猛轰之下，城堡遭到严重炸毁。
菲律宾
独立建国以来，其中的官邸辟为黎刹纪念馆，陈列黎刹生前的资料和文献，供民众和游客阅览了解。而曾经的军营现在没了屋顶，火烧的痕迹显而易见。<br></p>
<div id="_j_photo_976664271" data-seq="976664315" data-pid="976664271" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px" data-poiid="51332260">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/B7/CoUBGV5zsQiAFRL9ABbEB7-ih4s396.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/B7/CoUBGV5zsQiAFRL9ABbEB7-ih4s396.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://p1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/B7/CoUBGV5zsQiAFRL9ABbEB7-ih4s396.JPG?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="976664271" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="house"></i>帕西格河
</span>
</div>
<div id="_j_photo_976664272" data-seq="976664316" data-pid="976664272" class="add_pic _j_anchorcnt _j_seqitem" style="width:680px" data-poiid="51332260">
<img class="_j_lazyload _j_needInitShare" style="height:510px;width:680px;background:#FCF2DC" src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/C5/CoUBGV5zsQyARboOABR6TPn_BhA055.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/C5/CoUBGV5zsQyARboOABR6TPn_BhA055.JPG?imageView2%2F2%2Fw%2F680%2Fq%2F90%7CimageMogr2%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-rt-src="https://b1-q.mafengwo.net/s15/M00/7E/C5/CoUBGV5zsQyARboOABR6TPn_BhA055.JPG?imageMogr2%2Fthumbnail%2F1360x%2Fstrip%2Fquality%2F90" data-pid="976664272" alt="">
<span class="pic_tag">
<i class="house"></i>帕西格河
</span>
</div>
<p class="_j_note_content _j_seqitem" data-seq="976665181">
登上破损的城墙眺望，见证战乱摧残的
帕西
格河（Pasig River)缓缓流淌，对面河畔高楼大厦生机勃勃，一种水生植物一丛一簇漂浮在河面上，它们形成于吕宋岛内湖水位上涨。<br>
骤然下起了暴雨，
大树
底下避了一阵，雨小了赶紧往外走，走到城门又哗啦啦大响，一堆人躲在一起，耳目瞬间热闹起来。<br></p>
页:
[1]