德国：圆一场童话梦,探索德国城堡,体验中世纪的奢华！
<p>五年前的萧瑟冬日，在海德堡的老桥旁边，我遵循着当地传说的做法，握住铜猴的手指，据说有一天会回到 海德堡 ，没想到，铜猴真的让我如愿以偿，2019年的夏末初秋，我竟然跟着再次踏上海德堡 的旅行，而这一次德国之旅，不仅有海德堡 ，还有路德维希堡 、 罗滕堡 、 纽伦堡 、科堡……</p><p>曾经和闺蜜规划德国旅行的时候就很想去体验一下 德国的童话之路和古堡之路，这次旅行让我实现了一部分古堡之路的旅行计划，先简单介绍一下 德国 的古堡之路吧：</p>
<p><strong>古堡之路，从拥有全德国最宏伟的巴洛克式城堡的曼海姆为起点，经过著名的大学城海德堡 ，中世纪古城罗滕堡，纽伦堡和水乡班贝格 ，之后是历史悠久的盛产王子之城科堡，与德国著名作曲家瓦格纳颇具渊源的城市拜罗伊特 ，最终延伸到捷克的布拉格，全长1000多公里，沿途有77座古堡、城堡遗迹、王宫和宫殿。</strong></p>
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<p><strong>海德堡</strong></p>
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<p><strong>路德维希堡</strong></p>
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<em class="name">斯图加特</em>
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<p><strong>斯图加特</strong></p>
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<p><strong>保时捷和奔驰博物馆</strong></p>
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<p><strong>罗滕堡</strong></p>
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<p><strong>纽伦堡</strong></p>
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<p><strong>科堡</strong></p>
<p>说到城堡，几乎每个孩子从童年开始就对城堡心生向往，公主总是在华丽而神秘的城堡等待王子的到来，我们总是梦想着走进童话世界的梦幻城堡。如果你喜欢旧日奢华的氛围，喜欢厚重的历史风仪，喜欢探寻巍峨庄严的古堡背后的皇室趣闻，喜欢游走穿越在中世纪浓郁的小城探索每一个角落。那么你一定要来德国感受一次自由深度的古堡之旅，一起来实现童年的梦想吧！</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="100305891">D1&2海德堡，留下了谁的心？</h5>
<p>搭乘汉莎航空，10小时飞行，再次抵达法兰克福，这座“美茵河畔的耶路撒冷”城市，没有深入法兰克福城市，在机场搭乘德铁直奔距离最近的一站海德堡，关于德铁的攻略，我后面会专门分享。不到1小时，我们便抵达海德堡。</p>
<p>17:23-18:16 在法兰克福机场搭乘德铁ICE579去海德堡,中途在曼海姆转车</p>
<p><strong>TIPS：想要第一时间获知德铁的时间车次，记得提前在手机里下载DB Avigator的APP哦！</strong></p>
<p>在海德堡的两日，我们都入住在老城外的海德堡万豪酒店，这家酒店面对着美丽的内卡河，晚餐的时候可以对着内卡河大快朵颐欣赏落日，而且每天的早餐让人都很期待，尤其是第一天的无限供应车厘子！不过这家酒店距离老城有一段距离，需要搭乘电车5-10分钟前往。</p>
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<p>第一天晚餐，Merlin</p>
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<p>海德堡之所以闻名于世，第一它是德国浪漫主义的发源地，第二是因为坐落于王座山上结合歌特式巴洛克式及文艺复兴三种风格的海德堡城堡，第三因为这里有一座开放式的建于14世纪的海德堡大学。美丽的内卡河把海德堡分成两半，南边是老城，对面是新区。新区也就是海德堡大学新区的所在地。</p>
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<p>坐登山缆车登上海德堡城堡，这是德国最古老的翻山车道，据说最陡的地方有38度。缆车一共三站，我们只到第一站， 海德堡 城堡，第二站是个废弃的疗养院，第三站是王座山最高处。</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100305971">19世纪以来德国最浪漫城堡：海德堡城堡</h5>
<p>“美景之美，在于忧伤。” 海德堡城堡即是如此，它在变迁的历史中披星戴月地走出来，童话婚礼的祝福，闪电火灾的侵扰，战争炮火的洗礼，置于死地的破坏……每一代人都在它的身上烙下印记，无论是祝福、破坏、摒弃，它默默忍受一切，不动声色。若干年后，当我们看到它面目全非的样子，沉重、悲怆、凄美，没有鸟语花香、富丽堂皇，而那种深邃历史下时间的味道却耐人寻味。</p>
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<p>建于13世纪初的以内卡河砂岩筑成的海德堡城堡坐落在美丽的王座山上，几百年来静静俯瞰着内卡河。它不是一蹴而就地建成，而是历时400多年，几经扩建添砖加瓦才慢慢完工，最终形成哥特式、巴 洛克 式和文艺复兴三种风格的混合体，与其说是 海德堡 城堡，不如说是 海德堡 城堡大院更有可视感。</p>
<p><strong>来到海德堡城堡，奥特海因里希宫、巫婆咬、骑士跳、大酒桶，不可不看，不可不知。</strong></p>
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<p><strong>弗里德里希宫</strong>，以选帝侯弗里德里希命名，建筑外立面上雕刻着15位选帝侯，还有一位是智慧女神雅典娜。</p>
<p><strong>奥特海因里希宫</strong>，是德国境内阿尔卑斯山以北最重要的建筑，也是德国较早出现的文艺复兴时期的建筑，以及德国风格主义建筑的代表建筑之一，上面有16位圣经中的英雄人物。</p>
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<p><strong>巫婆咬<br></strong></p>
<p>在进入城堡的大门中有一个小门，门上挂着一个沉重的门环，现在还可以看到一道缝隙，据说有一天城堡的主人心血来潮，昭告四方谁能咬断门环就将城堡送给他，有个巫婆妄图当城堡的主人，于是她用尽力气把她的牙齿咬入铁环，结果只是咬出一道很小的缝，从此之后，这条缝就被叫做“巫婆咬”了。</p>
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<p><strong>大酒桶<br></strong></p>
<p>在海德堡城堡地窖里有一个超级大的大酒桶，大到竟然要上下楼梯才可以将其视察完。这个酒桶是 海德堡 历史上第三个大酒桶，由130根橡树干箍成，8.5米长，7米高，可以容纳221726升葡萄酒，人们可以顺着楼梯爬到大酒桶的顶上。在巨大的箍桶匠所用的工具旁边，会发现一条老化了的管道，这是一个泵装置尚存的部分，借助它可以将大酒桶里的葡萄酒抽到上面的酒吧间去，这样在给客人上酒的时候就不用来来回回爬楼梯了，不要小看这一装置，据说当时古堡里住着的酒量惊人的人们以及他们的客人一天要消耗2000公升的葡萄酒。</p>
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<p><strong>骑士跳</strong></p>
<p>在弗里德里希楼后身的 海德堡 城堡平台上，如果不仔细看或者不提前做功课会很容易错过一个细节，它是一个凹陷的脚印形状，人们称之为骑士跳。相传有一天弗里德里希楼着火了，在最上层的一个骑士刚刚穿戴好承重的骑士盔甲，发现着火了已经不能通过楼梯逃生，于是快速打开窗户从楼上跳了下来。人们惊讶地发现他并没有受伤，而是留下了一个大脚印。当然还有一个说法是倒霉的骑士被捉奸在床，究竟真实情况如何恐怕只有当事人才能说清了。</p>
<p><strong>海德堡城堡TIPS：</strong></p>
<p>1、城堡地点：Schlosshof 1,69117 Heidelberg</p>
<p>2、开放时间：城堡花园及大酒桶08:30——17:30 德国 药事博物馆 4-10月10:15-18:00 11月到3月 10：00-17:30 浪漫中世纪展览09：30-17:30</p>
<p>3、门票价格：宫殿门票，包括登山缆车，宫殿庭院、大酒桶、 德国 药物博物馆，8欧元。</p>
<p>导游讲解，成人5欧元。</p>
<p>4、齿轮火车：齿轮火车一共三站，第一站下车即可。</p>
<p>5、建议游览时间：3-4小时</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="100305907">在酿酒坊改造的Bierbrezel吃午餐</h5>
<p>这家餐厅在教堂旁边，据说是一家酿酒坊改造的餐厅，装饰得充满年代感，我们尝试了德式白水煮香肠、猪肋排、鸡肉沙拉等，最爱的必须是猪肋排！当然还有必不可少的德国啤酒，不过特别说一下，吃了这么多德国餐厅，发现德国当地比较多的饮料是cola mix，没有柠檬茶。</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100305909">圣灵大教堂，彩绘玻璃很独特</h5>
<p>午后，沿着从俾斯麦广场到谷物广场1.6公里长的主街慢慢散步消食，一路会途径位于市集广场的圣灵大教堂、据说这个教堂埋葬了很多选帝侯和夫人，这里还做过 海德堡 大学的图书馆，最有意思的是教堂下竟然还有一圈店铺。和常规的教堂不同的是，圣灵大教堂的窗户不是传统意义的彩绘玻璃，而是以日本广岛原子弹爆炸的惨况为主题的彩绘玻璃。</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100305910">世界上独一无二的学生监狱，海德堡学生监狱</h5>
<p>如果第一次来海德堡，推荐你可以来体验下这个世界上独一无二的学生监狱，要知道，曾经海德堡大学的学生可是以把进学生监狱当成一种身份的象征。</p>
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<p>小小的学生监狱不过就5个房间，之所以会设立学生监狱，因为根据当时的法律，警察是不能关押这些学生的，学校自行设立了“学生监狱”，专门管理这些滋事的学生，以正校风。本以为会让学生们各自面壁思过，没想到这里变成了他们的王国。</p>
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<p>虽然每间房间里简单得只有铁板床、稻草床垫、桌子和小工具，但是学生们竟然就利用这些将这里变成了一个涂鸦乐园，那些墙壁上、房顶上、楼梯上布满了当年学生们留下的笔迹和画作。上面有的是学生们的侧面头像画，有的是他们进入学生监狱的日期，以及他们跪求多关几天的期待，或是有趣诗文。学生们还把各个房间命名， 比如 “Sanscoui”，是一处早期在波兹坦的普鲁士宫殿名称，除此之外还有豪华酒店、皇家舞厅，帝王厅是他们洗漱的地方。</p>
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<p><strong>海德堡大学学生监狱TIPS:</strong></p>
<p>监狱地址：Augustinergasse 2，老大学(Alte Universit?t)大楼内</p>
<p>开放时间：四月至九月，周二-周日10:00-18:00；十月，周二-周日10:00-16:00；十一月至三月，周二-周六10:00-16:00；周一关门</p>
<p>门票价格：3欧元；优惠票2.5欧元</p>
<p>游览时间：30分钟</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="100306078">海德堡大学老礼堂，美轮美奂！</h5>
<p>这座老礼堂真是太美！位于老大学二楼，今天仍旧用来举行各种重要庆典， 比如 周年庆，开学典礼和毕业典礼等。 正墙中间是 巴登 大公弗里德里希的半身像，其右侧是大学创办人选帝侯帕拉丁.路普莱希特的画像，左侧是 巴登 大公卡尔.弗里德里希的画像。礼堂天花板上的四幅画代表了神学、法律、医学、哲学四门学科。</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100305918">午后内卡河游船，太阳能船</h5>
<p>如果带着孩子和老人，想要轻轻松松的感受 海德堡 ，其实还有一种旅行方式比较推荐，就是内卡河游船，内卡河上有三种不同的公共船， 海德堡 白船号、Liselotte轮渡以及我们这次体验的太阳能船Solarschiff Neckarsonne。</p>
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<p>船如其名，这是世界上最大的经由太阳能发动的太阳能双体船，大概50分钟的环游行程，坐在船上，可以一边喝着饮品吃着小食一边沐浴着清风，欣赏着内卡河两岸的风景，还是很惬意的。</p>
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<p><strong>太阳能船TIPS：</strong></p>
<p>1、出发地点：老桥附近</p>
<p>2、船票价格：成人9欧元，3-13岁儿童3.5欧元，学生7.5欧元，狗狗3.5欧元</p>
<p>3、发船时间：10月31日前的发船时间10:00、11:30、13:00、15:00、16:30、18:00</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="100305994">海德堡的标志老桥和哲学小路</h5>
<p>美丽的老桥桥头是拍照的好地点，也是 海德堡 的标志，所有去 海德堡 旅行的人都一定会注意到老桥旁边的铜猴，也一定有很多人没有注意到铜猴旁边的小老鼠。这个铜猴是1979年Gernot Rumpf设计的，猴头是空心的，人们可以把头钻进去拍照，寓意是通过照镜子进行自省。旁边的两个小老鼠代表着选帝侯存放谷物的仓库，其原址就是在现在铜猴所在位置。</p>
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<p>想要将海德堡城堡看完全的最好办法就是去到对面哲学家小路上走一遭，这条小路可是 欧洲 最美的高地漫步路线之一，据说启发来无数学者的灵感，漫步在绿意盎然的哲学小路，确实颇幽静很适合思考，不过也非常佩服哲学家们的体力，爬山还是相当辛苦的，要有好体力才能闲庭信步地走在这条小路 上思 考深奥的哲学问题吧。</p>
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<p>一天的徒步还是蛮辛苦的，而且夏末的海德堡还是有点小炎热，傍晚，坐在哲学小路的椅子上眺望浪漫的红房顶，还有阳光照射下的宝石般闪闪发光的内卡河，难怪歌德八次来这里与情人玛丽安娜幽会，马克.吐温说这里是他到过最美的地方。</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100306088">海德堡晚餐，Palmbraugasse，脆皮烤猪肘！</h5>
<p>晚上我们挑了一家人气最旺的当地餐厅，略带昏黄的灯光，外面下着小雨，清爽的晚风直接涌进餐厅，这一刻，简直太解压！特别推荐他们家的脆皮烤猪肘，实在是太脆皮啦！不过特别注意就是菜量很大，慎点慎点，我们四个人拼命才只吃下了两份主菜。</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100306091">来海德堡买什么伴手礼？</h5>
<p>来海德堡不要错过这款“学生之吻”哦，就在骑士饭店的西北角——Café Knosel，红色的招牌很显眼。1863年开张之后，吸引了不少爱赶时髦的教授学生。当时在咖啡店，年轻男女只能通过偷偷抛媚眼来传情，于是聪明的老板制作出一种特别细柔的巧克力饼，把它命名为“学生之吻”，年轻学子便藉由它来表达情意，含蓄而不失传统。</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100306003">D3路德维希堡，盛开的巴洛克</h5>
<p>今日天气阴，原本计划早点出发再去 海德堡 老街走走，但是掀开窗帘看到阴沉沉的天气，又滚回了幸福的床上继续呼呼。不过昨天一天的暴走是应该休息下补充体力，慢慢吃完早餐，继续向下一站 路德维希堡 出发。</p>
<p><strong>11:49-13:32 原计划搭乘火车从海德堡到路德维希堡 ，不过刚到neckarelz就被通知，火车出了一些状况，需要换乘巴士</strong>。坐着穿梭巴士前往另一个火车站，微凉的温度，小雨绵绵，仿佛提前置身深秋的既视感。</p>
<p>几经周折才抵达我们在<strong>路德维希堡的酒店——nestor Hotel Stuttgart Ludwigsburg（ 斯图加特 -鲁德温格斯堡内斯特酒店）</strong>，虽然只是四星级酒店，但是非常有设计感，据说酒店以前是一个军营，酒店不远处，是皇帝大道，两边都是高高的树木，特别适合拍人像大片。走400米的皇帝大道就能抵达路德维希堡王宫了，另外距离路德维希堡火车站800米。</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100305931">路德维希堡城市趴趴走</h5>
<p>阴雨绵绵的一天，加上偶遇的交通状况，我们不由得放慢今日行程的脚步。晚上5点左右，才开始探索路德维希堡 。</p>
<p>关于路德维希堡最早的记录，是1704年修建的路德维希堡宫殿，之后到了1718年才逐渐建立了城市。很多很多年以前，这里曾是一大片的森林，因为艾伯哈特路德维希 (Eberhard Ludwig) 公爵喜欢打猎，于是停留在了这里。路德维希宫殿号称是施瓦本的凡尔赛宫，在路德维希堡花园门口的字母，意思是盛开的巴洛克 。在不远处的平台，夏日里经常会举办音乐烟火盛会。城堡里452个房间每个房间都有不同的装饰风格……就把这个美好的宫殿留给在路德维希堡的第二天吧！</p>
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<p>据说在1718年路德维希堡建立的时候，公爵招募医生，药剂师，手工业者，为他们提供5年免税，提供住房，免费教育且信仰自由的福利。现在在 路德维希堡 广场的中间，是公爵的纪念碑。附近有御用面包店，御用珠宝店等等。当地因为有很多法国人，另外曾经被美军占领过，所以当地有很多漂亮的混血儿。</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/100d1e000001f1klv2BFF_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg06.c-ctrip.com/images/100d1e000001f1klv2BFF_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>路德维希堡还有一座闻名世界的电影学院，这座城市还是大诗人席勒的故乡。不过很多人来到路德维希堡，专门奔着路德维希堡宫殿去了，毕竟这里是德国最大的巴洛克式宫殿之一嘛。</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="100306012">路德维希堡晚餐，浓浓烟火气的小酒馆</h5>
<p>这家餐厅就像是当地的小酒馆，充满了浓浓的烟火气，房顶上贴满了各种啤酒杯杯垫，坐在长条桌边，吃着炸猪排喝着啤酒，很local的感觉！</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/100v1e000001fe3mpB7A2_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/100v1e000001fe3mpB7A2_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<h5 class="title5" id="100306138">气势恢宏的巴洛克式宫殿：路德维希堡宫殿</h5>
<p>雨过天晴，晴空万里的一天来探索路德维希堡王宫和花园实在是太明智！</p>
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<p>别看宫殿的外面看起来貌不惊人，当中世纪风格盛装打扮的向导小姐姐打开宫殿大门那一霎那，这座做梦都感觉很奢华的巴 洛克 式宫殿，就这样呈现在我们眼前。向导带着古老的钥匙，一道一道门逐一打开，就仿佛在打开神奇的魔盒，宫殿内一步一景，想拍下每一处细节，墙壁上的壁画、雕塑、吊灯奢华到仿佛像是在魔幻世界一般，美得那么不真实，有时候会让我感觉恍惚穿越回曾经的繁盛时光。</p>
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<p>这座巴洛克风格的宫殿共有18座宫楼，452个厅房，可以跟随向导参观宝镜阁（Spiegelkabinett）、豪华的王室戏院（Schlosstheater）及王室教堂(Schlosskirche)。在 路德维希堡 宫殿里哈可以看到 欧洲 最古老的宫廷剧院，剧院里有最原始的舞台装备。如果时间充裕，还可以去探索一下城堡里的陶瓷博物馆和时尚博物馆，时尚博物馆里面展示着18-20世纪的时装。</p>
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<p>离开宫殿，继续漫步在“兴盛的巴洛克 ”的童话般梦幻花园，这里是 德国 最古老最经典的巴洛克花园，夏日的花园百花绽放，棕榈树、兰花、杜鹃随处可见，花园里还有有趣的沙雕作品。</p>
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<p><strong>路德维希堡宫殿TIPS：</strong></p>
<p>1、城堡开放时间：周一到周日10:00-17:00</p>
<p>2、门票价格：首付宫殿带导游成人7欧元，家庭17.5欧元；博物馆和宫殿成人17欧</p>
<p>3、博物馆开放时间：周一闭馆，周二到周日10:00-17:00</p>
<p>4、童话花园旺季9点-18点开放，10月3日之后，9点半到18点开放，十月最后一周末进入冬令时后，10点到17点30分开放。</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="100306112">D5斯图加特，邂逅意料之外的美丽</h5>
<p>离开路德维希堡 ，前往我们下一站斯图加特 。</p>
<p><strong>14:36-14:52 搭乘火车从 路德维希堡 到 斯图加特</strong> ，之后打车到酒店。</p>
<p>D4.3今日酒店： jaz stuttgart（ 斯图加特 雅兹酒店）</p>
<p>这家酒店距离火车站大概5分钟左右车程，是一家很有时尚感的酒店，明亮的室内设计，让人心情一下就很嗨，沙发的设计也是很潮，酒店对面还有专门的停车场，因为我们今天晚上要取车，后续的行程需要自驾，所以入住在这里比较方便。</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100306027">来源于罗马万神殿设计的最美图书馆</h5>
<p>斯图加特 的第一站，竟然是市立图书馆？！听到市立图书馆这几个字，第一印象总是老气严肃刻板无趣，但是进到 斯图加特 市立图书馆的时候，有一种被想要好好读书这几个字附身的感觉！</p>
<p>入口处的超大挑空穹顶，布满小孔引入光线，站在这儿的第一时间，就感觉像是站在罗马的万神殿里的既视感，只是这个“万神殿”，设计的更有未来感。</p>
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<p>进入图书馆里面，真是让人眼前一亮，这里绝对是ins上的网红图书馆，内部空间完全留白，图书馆分为地下2层，地上9层，正方形的建筑四个方向皆有入口。通过大厅入口，人们可以从四面八方进入图书馆里面。 全馆没有直接照明，自然光线可以直接穿透屋顶，射入馆内。使用白色为主调，环型中空的通透设计更加凸显出开放的空间，使人倍感温暖。</p>
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<p>图书馆里不仅有电梯，还有外挂楼梯，它们奇妙地将整个空间串联到一起，营造了无限的空间美感，随便站在图书馆一角，静静地看着在上面安静走动的人们，就像是在看一部唯美的电影。看到这枚美好的图书馆，真是分分钟想把它搬到北京呀！</p>
<p><strong>斯图加特市立图书馆TIPS：</strong></p>
<p>开放时间：周一到周六，9点——21点</p>
<p>地址： 斯图加特 米兰 广场1号</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="100306034">阳光灿烂的午后，斯图加特王宫广场和菜市场</h5>
<p>依旧是阳光灿烂的午后，这种晴朗的日子来斯图加特的王宫广场走一走坐一坐，绝对让人心情舒畅。我们离开斯图加特市立图书馆，穿过主火车站，就来到来王宫广场，广场位于城市中心，四周围绕着文艺复兴特色的古老城堡，巴洛克式新王宫、50年度优雅艺术大楼、有着超现代玻璃立方体结构的艺术博物馆，以及古典主义的国王通道 。广场上有两个喷泉，简直美爆，这一刻，我竟然回想起在罗马暴走的阳光灿烂的日子。</p>
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<p>之后又去斯图加特菜市场逛了逛，想想去过欧洲好多个不同风格的菜市场，以后可以写一个菜市场专辑啦！斯图加特菜市场有100多年的悠久历史了，蔬菜蔬果们被整齐排列，让人感受到食物的最本真的美好。</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/100u1e000001f6ff8AA4B_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg07.c-ctrip.com/images/100u1e000001f6ff8AA4B_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>今日晚餐，Carls Brauhas</p>
<p>依旧点了不会出错的猪肘，不过这次不是完整的猪肘，而是被切割的猪肘。</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/100j1e000001f5yzmE89F_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/100j1e000001f5yzmE89F_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<h5 class="title5" id="100306240">保时捷博物馆，汽车王国的速度与激情</h5>
<p>来到斯图加特 ，怎么可以不去汽车博物馆呢？在斯图加特的最后半天，一口气打卡保时捷和奔驰两大汽车博物馆，实在是太过瘾！</p>
<p><strong>保时捷博物馆</strong></p>
<p>看到耸立着三辆保时捷直冲云霄的雕塑环岛，就到保时捷博物馆啦。顺着电梯直奔二层，开始大饱眼福的保时捷炫酷之旅。最开始看到的并不是保时捷经典911以及开山之作356，而是诞生于1898年的“P1”，竟然是一辆电动马车！难以想象，100多年前保时捷就有电动汽车！</p>
<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img487155680" data-likeid="487155680|3937632" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="487155680" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="487155680|2098830" data-referencecategory="1">
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<img data-original="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/100h1e000001f852uDE3D_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/100h1e000001f852uDE3D_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>在保时捷博物馆里，能看到很多经典车型，还有不同年代版本的356以及911， 比如 50年代的超级明星保时捷356 America Roadster，红色喷漆的柴油拖拉机保时捷Schleppe，1987年的911 speedster studie， 比如 《汽车总动员》的主角911萨莉，当然，最吸引我的还是Porsche 918 Spyder-保时捷的旗舰超级跑车，简直就像是跑车里的健身达人，那线条不要太完美！所以哪怕不是保时捷的狂热粉丝，能够近距离膜拜如此多的神车，内心也是相当澎湃的。</p>
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<p><strong>保时捷博物馆TIPS：</strong></p>
<p>1、开放时间：周二至周日 9:00-18:00，售票截止到17:30，周一闭馆</p>
<p>2、门票价格：成人票8欧，优惠票4欧，14岁以下儿童免票需在成人陪同下入场（可微信或支付宝支付）</p>
<p>3、中文讲解服务预约邮箱：info.museum@porsche.de</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="100306135">奔驰博物馆，经典永流传</h5>
<p>在斯图加特奔驰博物馆，必须说，有钱真好！这座汽车博物馆，耗资 1 亿 5000 万欧元，2 年半时间建成，拥有超过 160 辆各式梅赛德斯-奔驰经典车款，七个传奇区域由大约80米长的平缓坡道连接起来，可以以时间轴为线索欣赏各年代经典车款。</p>
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<p>三部以时空机器为概念的“子弹”升降机，以及著名的“三叶纹”设计，让整个空间充满未来感。从上到下的参观过程，可以一路了解从汽车的发明到经过战乱洗礼后的发展，经典与科技，在这里得到最完美的呈现。最爱各种怀旧的古董车，真是经典永流传。顺便说，奔驰博物馆的面积还是不小的，如果是车迷，建议预留大半天到一天时间！</p>
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<p><strong>奔驰博物馆TIPS：</strong></p>
<p>1、开放时间：周二-周日：9:00-18:00，17:00停止售票。周一闭馆。 12月24/25/31日均闭馆。</p>
<p>2、门票价格：全票：10欧，5欧（15-17岁青少年、学生；60岁以上老人）</p>
<p>免票：（含）14岁以下儿童；梅赛德斯奔驰俱乐部卡持卡人；博物馆连卡（ Museum Pass）持卡人</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="100306182">D6罗滕堡，圣诞永不落幕</h5>
<p>从斯图加特到罗滕堡 ，一路自驾，大约2小时左右抵达我们今天入住的酒店。</p>
<p><strong>hotel rappen rothenburg ob der tauber（陶本罗腾堡拉普酒店）</strong></p>
<p>这家酒店在 罗滕堡 老城外面，酒店1603 年建的，很有年代感，从这里走到罗滕堡需要8分钟左右。</p>
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<p>再次来到罗腾堡，上一次的罗滕堡之旅，依旧意犹未尽，怀念5年前那场让人感动的粉色晚霞，虽然这次的罗滕堡没有晚霞，但是童话般的小城，依旧让人充满期待。晚上的时间，直奔罗滕堡最富盛名的圣诞村。</p>
<p>绅士街上由凯特沃尔法特创办的圣诞村已经有二三十年的历史了，5万种与圣诞相关的物品绝对让人眼花缭乱目不暇接，圣诞老人、麋鹿、雪人、天使、铃铛、胡桃夹子、圣母 玛利亚 、耶稣、圣诞塔、圣诞树……所有能想象到的关于圣诞的装饰品皆可在此寻到。最引人注目的是一颗高达5米的圣诞树， 4米高的胡桃夹子，以及一座5米高的圣诞塔。在圣诞村最里面，仿佛真的进入了一个正经历着圣诞节的童话王国，好希望这个梦不会醒来。</p>
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<p>在这里除了可以买到圣诞装饰品外，还可以参观圣诞博物馆，重温从德迈时代至十九世纪五十年代初这段 德国 圣诞节的历史，近250平米的展区内陈列着由各种材料制成的圣诞树的装饰品、圣诞树、圣诞老人、圣诞卡、基督降临节日历、胡桃夹子、圣诞塔、冒烟小矮人、闪光天使……哪怕童年没有如此华丽，在这儿依旧可以感受小时候的幸福美好。想想似乎五年前我和闺蜜在这儿写下环游世界愿望的小卡片的那一刻似乎还历历在目，感谢圣诞老爷爷帮我实现愿望！！</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100306260">罗滕堡，童话不老</h5>
<p>罗滕堡的德语全称应该是：Rothenburg-ob-der-Tauder，开始觉得这么长的名字很奇怪，以为是到了 罗滕堡 的郊外某地，而实际上，这个长长地名的翻译是“陶伯河上的 罗滕堡 ”，正是距离罗滕堡古城最近的车站。</p>
<p>哪怕第二次走过 罗滕堡 ，依旧觉得没有好好深入地了解它，还惦念着第三次可以和家人一起，慢慢探索这座中世纪风情浓郁的小城。想在清晨无人的城墙上继续巡城俯瞰陶伯河上的红色城堡。想在晚霞漫天的时刻跑到城堡花园怀念往事。想漫步在古老的石板路上，钻进一个又一个小店里，和童趣盎然的玩具们一一过招。 罗滕堡 ，童话不老！</p>
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<p>如果有时间，可以好好漫步走一圈 罗滕堡 ，所以我更建议，倘若你第一次来 罗滕堡 ，一定要预留2-3天时间慢慢探索它的美好。如果你有机会在清晨无人的古城墙上巡城一周，你会真正理解Rothenburg-ob-der-Tauder的真正含义。从任何一个城门旁的入口即可爬到城墙上，从任意一个角度俯瞰全城，满眼是连成片的红房顶，每一幢小房子就像是带着小红帽子的可爱少女一般，让人仿佛置身童话王国。沿着大约1.4公里长的老城墙遗址慢走一圈大概需要半个小时，这条路线是循最古老的城防工事的走向。</p>
<p><strong>罗滕堡 环城游览路线推荐</strong></p>
<p>如果时间更充裕，可以来一个真正的环城游览，这条步行路线的一部分在城墙里面，一部分在外面，沿着中世纪城防设施的游览路线3.4公里长，全程需要1个小时。可以从城堡花园出发，在布拉绥小教堂穿过一个城门洞，沿着护城墙向南走，走到过去的约翰修道院的拐角处，在古城墙和陶贝尔河之间，这一带叫做Tauber-Riviera。在Kobolzell城门楼越过一条马路就到了救济院区的老城墙，沿着城墙走不远就能望见Imperial City Festival Hall（帝国市大厅），随后抵达救济院棱堡，这里是 罗滕堡 城防工事的最南端。当我们来到下一个塔楼即小星星塔楼之前，护城墙有个缺口，我们可以从这里进入城防工事沿着城墙里面游览，一直到我们从兹贝尔塔楼越过一条马路离开护城墙。沿着护城墙外围一直走到R?der Gate，之后沿着护城墙内侧一直走到克林根城门楼，中途会经过Gallows Gate，从克林根城门楼离开城区，沿着古棱堡区内的步行路先经过惩罚塔楼，然后向右拐行走1.2公里就是德特王城镇，仍旧沿着护城墙根经过修道院花园和托钵修会总督塔楼最后回到城堡花园。</p>
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<p><strong>铁艺招牌是小城里的独特风景线<br></strong></p>
<p>漫步在 罗滕堡 蜿蜒狭窄的小巷里，哪怕不经意的一瞥，都会发现很多造型别致的铁艺招牌，配合着糖果色装点着鲜花的可爱小屋，让人仿佛更像是置身童话世界。有别于 大城 市里的霓虹闪烁，铁艺招牌折射出店铺主人不凡的品味和情趣，让人有推开店门一探究竟的欲望。</p>
<p>罗滕堡 大街小巷里饭店和店铺门前悬挂着的精美招眼的金属招牌是当地工匠的传统手工艺，望着一款款古朴精细的铁艺招牌，除了赞叹工匠精湛技术，更被它的艺术魅力深深吸引。据说，因为中世纪的人们不识字的居多，所以为了招来顾客，提升品牌，图文并茂的铁艺招牌便被广泛使用，看到面包圈就知道这是家面包店，看到咖啡壶就知道这里提供香浓的咖啡了。</p>
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<p><strong>清晨才能邂逅， 罗滕堡最美一角<br></strong></p>
<p>想要邂逅 罗滕堡 最美的那一面，需要早早起床，在一日游游客没有大肆进入这里之前，提前赶赴目的地。想要找到这里，需要定位步云莱Plonlein，在老城的南端，石板路在这里一分为二，呈“Y”字形，且顺着地势有不同的坡度。小路两边是美丽的传统木框架房子，还有一个小小的喷泉。这里是《LP 德国 》的封面，也是 罗滕堡 的中世纪童话风最精华的所在。</p>
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<p>过我觉得其实 罗滕堡 有很多小角落都很美，可以按照自己都节奏慢慢找到最爱的瞬间，在这儿没有必要打卡式旅行。 罗滕堡 还有一个中世纪刑具博物馆，好奇宝宝们可以自行前往。你可以看到传说中的铁处女，各种羞辱面具，刽子手斗篷等刑具，大开眼界。</p>
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<p>我们还开车前往了距离 罗滕堡 老城不远处的Wildbad，一个很有年代感的疗养院，真是好幽静，在这儿，仿佛能够找到内心久违的静谧感。</p>
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<p><strong>陶伯河上的罗滕堡 TIPS:<br></strong></p>
<p>1、圣诞博物馆开放时间：4月-12月23日：每天11点-17点；1月中旬-3月底仅周六+周日：11-16点。1月周：每天11-16点；12月24日-31日：开放时间缩短。另外馆内不允许拍照。购买25欧元以上可以办理免税手续，另外还提供邮寄业务。</p>
<p>2、中世纪刑具博物馆开放时间：1月、2月、11月：14点-16点；4月：11点-17点。3月和12月：13点-16点。5月-10月：10点-18点。</p>
<p>3、哥特式圣雅各布教堂， 罗滕堡 最重要的教堂建筑是圣雅各布教堂，内有 提尔 曼?里门施奈德创作的著名的圣血祭坛和弗里德里希?海尔林制作的十二使徒圣坛。值得一看的还有东圣坛的彩绘玻璃窗。开放时间:4月- 10月 9：00-17：15，12月 10：00-16：45；11月，1月 - 3月 10：00-12：00, 14：00-16：00 教堂仪式: 每周日 9：30 有教堂祷告仪式, 免费 夏季早祷告 7：30 在公共假期，周六和周日每天11点和14点，及周六15点有免费的教堂导游</p>
<p>4、市集广场展现了罗腾堡的现代生活，重要的景点有市政厅(Rathaus)与市议会饮酒厅(RatstrinkStube)。市政厅的建筑物分两部份完成，由两栋不同的建筑组成，白色的哥特式建筑，一个50公尺的高塔，由塔顶可以眺望整个市区，这部份完成于13世纪；另一部分庄严的建筑建于文艺复兴时期，也是去白色塔楼的必经之路。塔楼：开放时间：9:30 —12:30 13:00—17:00</p>
<p>5、市议会Ratstrinkstube建于1445年，这里是罗腾堡的旅游信息中心，从钟楼右边的巷子进去，非常好找，里面可得到大量丰富的旅游信息和住宿交通帮助。楼上别致的钟在早上11点至下午3点，晚上9点到10点会出现“Meistertrunk”（海量酒客）的壁钟表演，讲诉的是十七世纪 德国 的30年战争期间，努修市长一口气饮下3.25公升（帝侯大酒杯）的白葡萄酒，使罗腾堡免于被火烧毁的故事。</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="100306359">纽伦堡，废墟中重建的中世纪风城市</h5>
<p>依依不舍地离开罗滕堡 ，我想下次如果再有机会来罗滕堡 ，我依旧会毫不犹豫地前往。我们继续自驾，从罗滕堡 前往下一站纽伦堡 ，大概1个半小时就到了纽伦堡 艾美酒店，Le Meridien Grand Hotel Nurnberg，这家酒店距离中央火车站一步之遥，而且房间奢华，酒店还特别准备了精美的果盘，开心！</p>
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<p>如果时光倒流， 纽伦堡 无疑是一座璀璨夺目的中世纪城市，查理一世时期，这里是德意志神圣 罗马 帝国所在地，而因为二战，这里被夷为平地，如今的 纽伦堡 是建立在废墟之上的城市，不过它依旧修旧如旧，保留着中世纪的建筑风格，以至于置身其中你依旧以为身处中世纪。</p>
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<p><strong>如果你想一日暴走游纽伦堡，你可以参考这头路线：火车站—皇帝门— 新兴 艺术博物馆—日耳曼博物馆—婚姻生活喷泉— 卡洛 琳大街—圣劳伦斯教堂—道德喷泉—博物馆桥—圣母大教堂—美泉—玩具博物馆—皇帝堡</strong></p>
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<p>我们的酒店对面就是火车站，别小看这座火车站，1846年建成的它可是当时通了德国 第一辆火车的！我们从城南的成门出发，一路探索城市，并向最终目的地皇帝堡徒步。</p>
<p>沿着城墙走，会看到新型艺术博物馆，日耳曼博物馆，以及婚姻生活喷泉，这个喷泉实在很特别，是一组大型雕塑，每个面展示不同的内容，从相爱到相杀，除了婚姻生活喷泉，这个城市里还有很多好玩的雕塑。 比如道德喷泉、 比如愚人船，都还挺耐人寻味的。</p>
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<p>在 纽伦堡 流传着一句话”石头般富有，从中世纪开始“。所以你看， 纽伦堡 很多建筑都是黑色大石块，据说人们当时喜欢黑色凹凸不平的石块。另外经常在房子墙壁上，会凸出一个小房子，后来我们在皇帝堡对面曾经的粮仓，也看到了这个外挂凸起的小房子，原来这个外挂小房子竟然是卫生间！</p>
<p>来到皇帝堡，这几个体验别错过哦！</p>
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<p><strong>皇家小教堂，你看到微笑还是发怒的耶稣？</strong></p>
<p>皇帝堡内有一座皇家小教堂。这个不特别，特别的是耶稣像，以及这是一个双层祈祷台。因为双层，所以皇帝和贵族们是坐在上层祈祷的，而平民们 比如 他们的佣人是坐在下层期待的，如果坐在二层，看到的是耶稣的微笑。而下层看到的却是耶稣发怒的脸。贫贱竟然在这一刻，有着这样的分别。</p>
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<p><strong>皇帝堡的深井体验<br></strong></p>
<p>一口井有什么好看？竟然还每日定时开放。因为皇帝堡在山坡上，所以为了取水，只能打一口深深的井，这口井有多深？蜡烛告诉你答案。盛放蜡烛的托盘被绞盘慢慢放入井底，托盘旁边有镜头可以追踪到整个下井过程，工作人员还会用镜子将光反射到井底，会看到光柱真的好长，据说当年打一桶水要25分钟，那皇帝要洗澡，可怎么办才好？</p>
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<p><strong>俯瞰纽伦堡最好地方</strong></p>
<p>想要俯瞰 纽伦堡 ，皇帝堡也是最好的地方，毕竟这里是高地嘛，站在城堡上，看这个中世纪风情浓郁的城市，真是很难相信这是建立在废墟之上的城市。</p>
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<p><strong>今日晚餐Pillhofer</strong></p>
<p>这家餐厅就在皇帝门旁边，距离我们的酒店也非常近，一边吃晚餐一边看着天色将晚，和小伙伴一起把酒言欢，不过晚餐我竟然又抽中了猪肘，看到菜单上写的四川pork，脑海里立即联想到了诱人川菜，而实际上，我竟然没有看到一丝辣椒的影子，纯纯粹粹的大肘子！</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100306293">纽伦堡，祖母的厨房</h5>
<p>上午慢悠悠地吃完早餐，再简单漫步了一下 纽伦堡 地城市风光，不过周日的 德国 ，几乎所有店铺都不营业，昨天热闹的街道瞬间变得冷冷清清，退房之后，我们去了一家特别有味道的餐厅，不过这家距离我们的酒店有些距离，但是真是不虚此行，大爱这家餐厅！！</p>
<p><strong>今日午餐：Zum Gulden Stern</strong></p>
<p>这家餐厅竟然有600多年的历史了，如果不是当地人指路，真是太不容易发现，店铺装饰得很有感觉，大大小小的铜锅依次挂在墙上，古老的吊灯，超有感觉，像是撞入了祖母的厨房，这里的烤香肠简直让人赞不绝口，来纽伦堡也一定要吃下纽伦堡香肠哦，当地特色！</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100306296">D7科堡城堡，王子之城，满溢贵族气息！</h5>
<p>科堡，一座名副其实的王子之城，自19世纪以来，Coburg公爵的后代通过一系列精心策划的政治联姻，从而跻身于世界各地的王室家族，所以 英国 的查尔斯王子、 瑞典 的古斯塔夫国王、 比利时 的菲利普王子……他们的祖先都来自于科堡。</p>
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<p>1989年东西德统一之后的版图中，这里地处 德国 的中心位置。在科堡的集市广场边上依然保留着许多14世纪精致的木桁架房，文艺复兴时期的华丽和传统木架构造，令人印象深刻，集市的中央就是1840年 英国 女王夫婿艾伯特王子的纪念碑。<strong>科堡还拥有德国现存第二大城堡——科堡碉堡，</strong>这是一座非典型的城堡，从不同的角度会看到不一样的感觉。站在雄伟的科堡碉堡上俯瞰，美好景色一览无余。想要感受下无处不在的贵族气息，就来德国的科堡吧！不过科堡碉堡在山坡上，所以建议坐摆渡车上山，再徒步下山比较节省力气哦！</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100306377">德累斯顿最有名的中餐厅吃晚餐</h5>
<p>短暂的游览完科堡，4点前面启程继续前往德累斯顿 ，<strong>从科堡开往德累斯顿 ，大概需要4小时</strong>，我们今天入住的酒店是Radisson Blu Park Hotel&Conference Centre，距离 德累斯顿市中心需要15分钟车程的样子，这家酒店距离我们第二天要去的酒庄非常近。</p>
<p>吃了很多天的德式大餐，我的 中国 胃开始呼唤被关爱，于是我们没有先到酒店，而是开车去了 德累斯顿 火车站旁边，<strong>在德累斯顿非常知名的中餐厅——成吉思汗</strong>。把车停在附近的路边，2小时大概停车费是2欧元的样子。终于吃到来心心念的米饭，还点了水煮牛肉、地三鲜、鸡蛋西红柿汤，瞬间就觉得所有赶路的疲惫都消失了，满脸大写的满足！</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100306379">D8德累斯顿，适合度假的小城堡庄园</h5>
<p>悠哉悠哉的一天，竟然从美酒and美食开始，酒店距离我们上午要去的酒庄非常近，自驾在浪漫的葡萄酒之路，一路就开到了葡萄酒庄园。庄园里有一个小城堡Wackerbarth，情调满满。在这儿发现超好喝的一款白葡萄酒，小伙伴们纷纷不淡定了，哪怕行李已经塞满，依旧每人抱了好几瓶回家。</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100306230">德累斯顿，一家有旋转木马的餐厅！</h5>
<p>这家餐厅简直不要太推荐！！虽然在地下室，但是仿佛像是神奇的山洞，让人倍感新鲜， 比如 有的餐桌竟然设计成旋转木马的造型，暗黑的环境，透着满满的神秘感！午餐牛肉卷，别致！</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100306308">德累斯顿绿穹宝库，摄人心魄的美</h5>
<p>今天上午的行程是在 德累斯顿 市区，我们把车停在了距离 德累斯顿 绿穹顶不远处的公共停车场,可以搜索这个地点Klein Brrudergasse 3，01067 Dresden，抵达这里，这个停车场在地下，我们从12点左右大概停到下午4-5点，花费17欧元左右。</p>
<p>我记得上一次沉浸在珍宝类博物馆是在维也纳艺术史博物馆，这一次，我猝不及防地被德累斯顿的绿穹宝库和德累斯顿皇宫里的陈列展品深深震撼。<strong>这些珍宝曾经是奥古斯特皇帝的“秘密收藏”。</strong><strong>现在这个博物馆不仅是世界上最宏伟的珍宝博物馆之一，也是最古老的博物馆之一。</strong>它收藏了珠宝和黄金饰品加工艺术的杰作，以及琥珀和象牙制成的珍宝、宝石器皿和高艺术质量的青铜雕像。</p>
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<p>来到这里，<strong>最不可错过的是镇馆之宝：莫卧儿帝国的朝臣</strong>，这件欧洲珠宝商“的艺术杰作，镶有4909颗钻石，160颗红宝石，164颗绿宝石，1颗蓝宝石，16颗珍珠和2颗浮雕宝石，摄人心魄令人着迷。珊瑚制达芙妮女神酒器、象牙雕刻的大护卫舰、金咖啡器……数不胜数的萨克森王国珍奇宝藏。</p>
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<p>这座博物馆里还有一颗最引以为豪的<strong>世界最大绿钻石—— 德累斯顿绿</strong>，在黑暗的展厅中，绿钻发出璀璨的光芒。</p>
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<p><strong>绿穹宝库TIPS：</strong></p>
<p>1、开放时间：绿穹珍宝馆老馆、新馆、军械库、钱币展、 土耳其 武器馆、油画肖像馆：周三-周一10:00-18:00，周二闭馆。</p>
<p>2、景点门票：绿穹珍宝馆老馆12欧，新馆， 土耳其 武器馆，油画肖像馆12欧；通票21欧。</p>
<p>3、特别提醒：老馆内不允许照相；门票有限时，需准时入内。新馆内可以照相，但请勿使用闪光灯。另外，这里免费提供中文讲解器，绝对不能错过哦！</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="100306318">午后皮尔尼茨宫，漫步英式花园</h5>
<p>傍晚我们前往了皮尔尼茨宫，这里距离德累斯顿市中心有15公里左右的路程，二战的时候， 德累斯顿几乎全部被盟军轰炸夷为平地，不过因为皮尔尼茨宫因位置较为偏远，得以幸免。</p>
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<p>萨克森王国选帝侯兼 波兰 国王奥古斯特二世在位期间，在 德累斯顿 建造了诸多宫廷建筑，皮尔尼茨宫（Schloss Pillnitz）就是其中之一。奥古斯特二世因为爱上了科泽尔伯爵夫人，便把这座宫殿赐给了她，后来科泽尔伯爵夫人失宠，皮尔尼茨宫又被改建为富东方色彩的休闲宫殿，用来举办庆典。皮尔尼茨以其 英国 式的公园和皮尔尼茨宫著称，如果来德累斯顿别错过。不过我们来的这天因为是周一，所以不让进入参观，着实可惜。</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="100306320">住在19世纪都铎风格的宫殿里！</h5>
<p><strong>今日酒店：Schloss Eckberg</strong></p>
<p>这应该算是一个城堡式度假村的感觉，中心处是一座19世纪都铎风格的宫殿。酒店所在的公园占地15公顷，四周环绕着古老的树木。我们住在主楼旁边不远处的附楼，如果是情侣来入住推荐感受一下城堡酒店哦！</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100306444">D9马车巡游水上城堡，感受国王狩猎乐趣</h5>
<p>翌日清晨，坐在马车车夫旁，在两匹骏马的带领下绕着莫里茨堡的宫殿游览，在 德国 的最后一天，天气好得让人感动，美好的早晨，一路清风拂面马蹄声嗒嗒响，似乎我们也能感受到曾经国王外出狩猎归来时收获满满的乐趣。</p>
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<p>马车巡游之后，才看到来莫里茨堡的真身，原来这竟是一座水上狩猎宫殿，湖水映出城堡美丽的倩影，宫殿附近就是山林和丰富的猎物，据说《格林童话》中灰姑娘故事里的城堡就取材于此。</p>
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<p>因为时间有限，没有进入城堡内部，离开莫里茨堡，我们就结束了德国的旅行，直奔 德累斯顿 机场，这里要说一下德累斯顿机场退税，记得要下面图片这个小屋子，盖好章退税之后把信封投递到机场外面的黄色邮箱哦！</p>
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<p>结束城堡主题的旅行，除了各种城堡，还新发现了吃得也很“堡”， 德国 菜量惊人，肉食居多，慎重点餐哦。另外酒店几乎都不提供牙具、梳子和拖鞋，所以记得要提前备好哦。</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="100306327">附，德国铁路DB攻略</h5>
<p>通票州票周中票周末票？车票与座位不对应？火车站有行李寄存柜？怎么提前网购通票？自助购票机怎么用？第一次用通票还要盖章？……德铁无缝衔接以及人性化的设计让人顶礼膜拜，但是初次接触的人会因它的繁复烧脑而望而却步，熊猫梳理了一些关于 德国 交通的要点，希望可以帮助到第一次去 德国 自由行的大家。</p>
<p><strong>一、该买何种交通票？</strong></p>
<p>1、第一步应该是规划并确认你每一天的行程，以及你计划坐的时间和车次。</p>
<p>关于做行程计划的时候列车时间和车次的查询：</p>
<p>德文 ： http://reiseauskunft.bahn.de/bin/query.exe/dn</p>
<p>英文： http://reiseauskunft.bahn.de/bin/query.exe/en</p>
<p>（或者在手机里下载DB Navigator，操作简单直观）</p>
<p>查看具体的车次/转车/途径站点信息</p>
<p>在查询第二步：Selection</p>
<p>点击左边第一栏 Station/Stop 中的箭头，或 Show details for all；即可看具体转车信息，包括站台、列车车次编号；</p>
<p>继续点击 Show intermediate stops，显示各途径站点信息。</p>
<p>跨国列车，底下显示边境站 Border crossing，站名后带括号 (Gr.)。</p>
<p>2、对每一趟行程做州的标记，如果是跨州交通则需要单独购买车票（如提前很久购买以及确定时间及车次则可以单独购买）或使用通票（任何车次均可），如果是在州内交通则建议根据实际情况买州票、周中票、周末票，好处是省钱，坏处是不能坐快车会浪费一些时间。</p>
<p>3、提前网购好通票，州票、周中、周末票建议在 德国 的DB自动购票机购买。</p>
<p>4、总的来说，如果跨州交通，对速度要求高的建议买通票，如果不计较乘车时间的则购买周中or周末票，如果提前很久购买且确认购买时间车次不会更改的建议直接买单次票，因为会有折扣。另外，如果是州内交通建议购买州票。</p>
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<p><strong>二、 德国交通票种类</strong></p>
<p>1、票种：</p>
<p>1）通票：适用于DB的全部车型包括ICE，不过公交车和地铁无法使用。</p>
<p>2）6岁以下不占座儿童免费,儿童6-11岁享受半价优惠。</p>
<p>3）车票为记名车票。</p>
<p>4）第一次搭乘需持通票到火车站服务中心柜台验证，并盖生效章（若所购票种为2人同行优惠通票，盖生效章时票上所示成员需全部在场），由站务人员填上使用者的护照号码，方能使用。</p>
<p>5）19点规则：当天的19:00到第二天的19:00为一天。</p>
<p>6）DB通票包含优惠：</p>
<p>A.可免费乘坐莱茵河游船，详情请见 www.k-d.com</p>
<p>B. 德国 浪漫之路巴士游8折优惠(Frankfurt/M. - Würzburg - Augsburg - München/Füssen;每年4-10月)，详情请见： www.romanticroadcoach.de</p>
<p>C.享受 德国 最高峰 楚格 峰登峰火车可享受正价票9折的优惠价格, 详情见 www.zugspitze.de</p>
<p>D.可在萨尔斯堡（ 奥地利 ）和 巴塞尔 （ 瑞士 ）使用</p>
<p>E.博登湖游船5折优惠Bodensee-Schiffsbetriebe</p>
<p>F.免费乘坐 法兰克福 出发至Wertheim和 慕尼黑 出发至Ingolstadt购物村专线大巴 详情见： www.coach.wertheimvillage.com</p>
<p>2）州票：Länder-Tickets 或 Laender-Tickets</p>
<p>使用范围：用于在各联邦州内一天内任意乘坐德铁慢车，可以坐绝大部分的州内地方公交（梅前州票与石荷州票例外）。</p>
<p>使用时间：一张票只能用一天，周一至周五，9点至次日凌晨3点；周六/周日/法定节假日，0点至次日凌晨3点。</p>
<p>* 例外：北威州票有效时间截止至当天末班车。</p>
<p>* 各联邦州的法定节假日不完全一致。</p>
<p>* 夜州票：巴符州、拜恩州、 勃兰登堡 - 柏林 州、莱茵-普法尔茨州和 萨尔州 有夜州票，价格略低。有效时间为: 勃兰登堡 - 柏林 夜州票为当日18点至次日早晨6点，其他4个夜州票有效期均为当日18:00至次日早晨6:00，周六/周日/法定节假日早晨延长至7:00。</p>
<p>人数限制：（单人票除外）乘坐人数上限均为5人，即一张票最多可以5人同行。 巴登 州票、拜恩州票、梅前州票、莱茵-普法尔茨州票、 萨尔州 票、石荷州票、萨克森州票、萨安州票、 图林根 州票的价格与人数挂钩，买票前需要定好同行人数。 勃兰登堡 - 柏林 州票、 黑森 州票、北威州票（该州还有单人票）为单一价，无论实际几人同行。</p>
<p>3）周中票：Quer-durchs-Land-Ticket，用于周一至周五在 德国 境内一天内任意乘坐德铁慢车，不能乘坐地方公交（地铁和公车），S线可以坐。</p>
<p>使用时间为：一张票只能用一天，周一至周五，9点至次日凌晨3点；逢全德统一法定节假日，0点至次日凌晨3点。（使用时间指全部坐车时间，并非上车时间）</p>
<p>人数限制：（单人票除外）乘坐人数上限均为5人，即一张票最多可以5人同行，价格与人数挂钩，买票前需要定好同行人数。</p>
<p>4）周末票：Schönes-Wochenende-Ticket</p>
<p>使用范围：用于周六或周日在 德国 境内任意乘坐德铁慢车。</p>
<p>使用时间：一张票只能使用一天，周六或周日，0点至次日凌晨3点。（使用时间指全部坐车时间，并非上车时间）</p>
<p>人数限制：（单人票除外）乘坐人数上限均为5人，即一张票最多可以5人同行。为单一价，无论实际几人同行。</p>
<p>【以上注意】</p>
<p>1）票上必须填写一个人的姓名，如果多人一起使用但乘坐距离不一，填写乘坐距离最远或使用时间最长的人。</p>
<p>2）每乘坐一列车，启程后不得添加人数（即使不足5人），也不得换人。</p>
<p>3）不需要提前预订！州票、周末票、周中票都可以随时买，没有提前预订的限制，也永远不会售完！</p>
<p>4）最佳购买方式为到火车站的DB自动售票机上购买，购买时选择乘坐日期，若与人数挂钩的车票需选择人数。</p>
<p>5）乘坐日期会打印在票上，使用时不需要再打票。购票之后不得退票，也不得更改乘坐日期。</p>
<p>6）除了 黑森 州票（需要在 黑森 州地区公交售票机购买）之外，所有州票都可以在任何DB售票机上和网上买到，与所在地无关。</p>
<p>7）在地方公交系统的自动售票机上可购买所在州的州票，但可能不能选日期，而是必须在第一次使用的时候打票，或者只是购票当天有效，建议买票之前找工作人员问清楚。</p>
<p>8）其它购买方式有：人工售票处，每张票加收2欧服务费；DB网上订购，选择邮寄，邮费3.5欧。</p>
<p><strong>三、如何网购德铁通票</strong></p>
<p>1、可以通过德铁 德国 官方网站购买，注册或者不注册都可以买到，注册登陆后便于查找自己所订的票；在可以退票的前提下，退票方便。德铁 德国 官方的优势是不需要8欧的手续费，缺点是德语难理解，另外需要花费3.5欧邮寄收到票，会很拖延，有时候寄到 中国 需要20天左右。</p>
<p>2、对于希望方便快捷且可忍受一定手续费的同学，建议登陆德铁在 北京 设立销售中心网站 www.detie.cn 购买。可以通过该销售中心订票，每张票收取8欧的费用。</p>
<p><strong>四、德铁自动购票机</strong></p>
<p>1、在 德国 当地购买州票、或者单程车票建议使用红色的DB自动购票机，因为人工柜台购买有的票种是需要加收手续费的，完全没有必要。在DB自动购票机购买车票首次操作会有点头晕，不过第二次就操作自如了，以下是操作步骤，请参考：</p>
<p>1）选择语言：在屏幕下方选择为英文</p>
<p>2）选择类别：选择右上角的All Offers</p>
<p>3）选择 Leisure and special offers 或 Collective tickets，都可以购买州票、周末票、周中票；</p>
<p>但是州票单人票只能通过选择 Leisure and special offers 继续，在 Collective tickets 下没有州票单人票。</p>
<p>4）A.如果选择 Leisure and special offers，继续选择 Offers for other Federal Laender 以购买州票；或选择 Schönes-Wochenende-Ticket 以购买周末票；或选择 Quer-durchs-Land-Ticket 以购买周中票</p>
<p>如果买售票机所在地的 本州 州票（如图示例子为萨克森州票），可直接选择最上面的相应州票</p>
<p>B.如果选择Collective tickets，继续选择 Länder Tickets 以购买州票；或选择 Schönes-Wochenende-Ticket 以购买周末票；或选择 Quer-durchs-Land-Ticket 以购买周中票</p>
<p>5）A. 选择联邦州，以购买州票。进入单个联邦州界面后继续选择相应州票及乘坐日期。</p>
<p>B. 选择周末票后，选择乘坐日期</p>
<p>C. 选择周中票后，选择乘坐人数和乘坐日期</p>
<p>2、DB自动售票机注意事项：</p>
<p>1）DB自动售票机接受信用卡、ec/maestro卡、现金。</p>
<p>2）现金最大面额50欧，但大部分售票机所接受的纸币面额因购票总金额而异，因为找零都是硬币，为了避免找零过多而使硬币储备不够。到付款一步，可使用纸币会显示在屏幕上。</p>
<p>3）部分售票机只接受20欧以下小额纸币及硬币。</p>
<p><strong>五、其他注意事项：</strong></p>
<p>1、 火车站有存包柜！</p>
<p>火车站是有存包柜的，所以 比如 说有的同学在 科隆 或者新天鹅堡希望当天游玩过而已，不希望下榻在该城市，那么使用存包柜就很必要了。寄存柜有大小之分，总共4种尺寸规格，但大多数火车站并非所有规格都有，价格也各不相同，以下仅供参考：</p>
<p>小柜：1.5 欧 / 24小时 起（即每24小时 1.5 欧起；但开箱后一次寄存结束，即使未满24小时，再次寄存需重新投币）；</p>
<p>中柜：2 欧 / 24小时 起；</p>
<p>大柜：3 欧 / 24小时 起；</p>
<p>超大柜：4 欧 / 24小时 起；</p>
<p>最多可以寄存72小时，超过72小时，火车站清柜处理，并收清柜费7.5欧。</p>
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<p>2、通票需要到服务中心盖章：第一次搭乘需持通票到火车站服务中心柜台验证，并盖生效章（若所购票种为2人同行优惠通票，盖生效章时票上所示成员需全部在场），由站务人员填上使用者的护照号码，方能使用。</p>
<p>3、DB Navigator的app！</p>
<p>务必提前在手机里下载DB Navigator的免费软件，可以随时在 德国 查询德铁的信息，可以了解每一个换乘的时间、车次、站台，非常方便。另外在做计划的时候也可以通过DB Navigator，非常直观清晰。</p>
<p>4、 快车座位上有定座标识的别坐！</p>
<p>车票和座位是分开的。 德国 买火车票跟国内不同，车票和座位票是分开的。慢车全部都不订座，也就是不对号，上车随便坐，快车加订座费可以订座，定位费根据购买渠道及车厢等级不同，2.5欧-5.5欧不等。快车上车之后，记得看下座位上方的一个提示标，如果有一个图标亮了，则证明该座位被人预定。</p>
<p>5、关于交通的德语缩写解释：</p>
<p>BF：Bahnhof，火车站</p>
<p>HBF：Hauptbahnhof，大一点的城市有多个火车站，HBF为主火车站</p>
<p>CHG：Change 的缩写，即转车次数。就是同一个火车站</p>
<p>Tief：如Berlin Hbf（tief），表示底下一层，在因为该火车站有多层，只要找站台号即可。</p>
<p>Gl.9：表示9站台，Gl.是德语站台Gleis的缩写</p>
<p>Erw：Erwachsene（r），成人</p>
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