函馆：慢行日本 | 赴一场函馆的冬日之约
<p>安政6年（1859年），函馆与横滨、长崎一起作为日本首批国际贸易港开放。 </p><p>港口的开放带动了市井的繁荣，数不清的西洋人与西洋文化从这里上岸，源源不断的向内陆传播。</p>
<p>踏上这片已近零下的冰雪大地。</p>
<p>函馆的荣耀，就从这时开始说起。</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100238501">【函馆的冬日，三天可以这样过】 </h5>
<p>Day1 </p>
<p>五岛轩（雪河亭本店）-函馆葡萄酒厂-函馆海滨区域散步 </p>
<p>Day2 </p>
<p>函馆山日出- Greenpia大沼滑雪场-七饭滑雪场Peak Cafe-函馆山百万夜景-八幡坂-一文字函馆盐味拉面 </p>
<p>Day3 </p>
<p>函馆朝市-大沼国定公园-Sushidokoro Kihara寿司料理-函馆市热带植物园-无印良品-丸井今井函馆-五棱郭夜景 </p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100238561">【跟着视频逛函馆】</h5>
<p>「函馆这样最好玩」</p>
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<p>「函馆这样最好吃」</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100238508">【五岛轩：来自明治时期的老味道】</h5>
<p>函馆的「元町」，是日本最早开放的港口之一，这里遍布着许多具有历史意义的西式建筑。函馆最驰名的西餐店——五岛轩（雪河亭本店），就在元町附近，来了自然不能错过啦。</p>
<p>五岛轩创建于1879年，融合了法餐和俄餐的精华，是北海道第一家西洋餐厅。走进店铺，内部装饰还停留在明治时期的气派复古建筑风格，让人一下子就回到了过去的旧时光。虽具有年代感，却依旧窗明几净，再配上穿着笔挺西装的服务生，「体面」是在这吃饭的第一感觉。</p>
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<p>咖喱饭是五岛轩的招牌菜，远近驰名140余年，就连日本天皇都曾到此品尝。</p>
<p>五岛轩的咖喱有好多选择：英国风、法式风、印度等、日本风，辛辣口感也可以自己来挑。浇在米饭上吃下去，是踏踏实实的饱腹感啦。</p>
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<p>西餐当然也要试试，相传北海道人民的餐桌上出现炖物的时候，就代表冬天来临了，所以我点了一道俄式炖牛肉套餐迎接冬天。</p>
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<p>奶油红菜汤做出了俄餐的水平，酸中带着奶油香，一盘汤喝下去，整个胃口都被打开了。</p>
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<p>牛肉炖的很绵软，但软中还带着嚼劲，让牙齿还有用武之地。咸度配上米饭刚刚好，量真的超足！</p>
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<p>现在的五岛轩，还肩负起了承办婚宴与小型博物馆的功能，在这能看到日本天皇来函馆就餐的餐厅，硕大且气派。 </p>
<p>还能看到明治时期的史料文献与生活杂物。</p>
<p>在五岛轩餐厅，吃饭也成了一件有历史意义的事情。</p>
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<p> 地址：4-5 Suehirocho, Hakodate, Hokkaido 040-0053日本 </p>
<p>营业时间：11:30-20:00（每周二休息） </p>
<p>人均消费：3000-5000日元 </p>
<h5 class="title5" id="100238425">【函馆葡萄酒厂：纯正的北海道产葡萄酒】</h5>
<p>如果你是葡萄酒爱好者，一定不要错过函馆葡萄酒厂。北海道地处北纬42-45度，昼夜温差大，受梅雨和台风的影响比较小，属于温暖带。这片土地酿酒的历史，可以一直一直追溯到1876年。</p>
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<p>函馆葡萄酒厂在函馆隔壁的七饭町，酒厂旁就是可以预约品酒的直销店「葡萄馆」啦，店内的红酒的试和以及几样当地特产的葡萄酒产品一定不要错过：</p>
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<p>「冰酒（白）」</p>
<p>这款热门冰酒用的是迟摘型全熟葡萄。采收后冷冻处理，在结冰状态下压榨、发酵制成的高品质葡萄酒，在生产过程中不加入任何外部糖源。仿佛品着北海道大自然之味一般。</p>
<p>函馆葡萄酒厂的这款冰酒喝起来，有点饮料的口感，甜甜的，酒精度没有很高，舌头留下的印象是很纯净，既不会过分的甜腻，却也很好的去除了酒中葡萄的酸涩味。说实话，在这次之前，我真的不知道日本也有如此好喝的冰酒，果断打包两瓶带回国，春节还没过完就全都喝光啦。</p>
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<p>「冰酒（红）」</p>
<p>12度的冰酒，相较于白葡萄酒，这款的葡萄味会更重一些，适合平时更喜欢喝红葡萄酒的人。</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/100u1e000001f6er39C29_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg01.c-ctrip.com/images/100u1e000001f6er39C29_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>「果味起泡红酒 红葡萄」</p>
<p>荣获金奖的起泡红酒产品，打开软木塞的那一刻，粉红色的起泡酒从瓶中倾泻而出，浪漫的有些不现实了。起泡酒的酒味芳醇，会比平常喝的起泡酒度数高一些，如果带回国内的话，一定会成为深受姑娘们喜欢的网红饮料。</p>
<p>「葡萄酒冰淇淋」</p>
<p>添加了葡萄酒的冰淇淋，这是我第一次吃到，淡淡的葡萄甜味配上北海道牛奶的浓郁奶香，再吃一口软糯的蛋糕，是幸福的味道～</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100238432">【函馆海滨区域散步：函馆的荣与光】</h5>
<p>函馆的一切人文，仿佛都是围绕明治时期展开的。 </p>
<p>在函馆海滨散散步，能看到一排排红砖房子。这便是「函馆明治馆」了，从明治时代1911年建造至今，仍保留着当时的模样。</p>
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<p>明治馆曾经是函馆的中央邮政局，红色的砖墙在冬日的大海旁显得格外温暖。现在的明治馆变成了玻璃工坊专卖场，八音盒、玻璃制品，还可以体验喷砂玻璃。闪闪烁烁的玻璃，映射出明治时期的函馆荣光。</p>
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<p>现在的成年人，还相信童话吗？我不清楚，可是在明治馆，这里还是一副岁月静好的样子。</p>
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<p>「函馆明治馆」旁相邻相似的建筑，就是「金森红砖仓库」了，明治时代，这里是函馆开设的首个营业仓库，如今，这里是四座建筑联接构成的综合商业设施。</p>
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<p>BAY HAKODATE、金森洋物馆、函馆历史广场、金森大厅，沿着海岸线依次排开，本地人在这里可以买到日常所需，游客也能慢慢逛着挑选些纪念品。</p>
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<p>我在这里买了只小狐狸面具，带着接下来几天拍照用～在日本，护理被视为稻荷神，是人类和神之间的信使，可以用来占卜凶吉，佩戴狐狸面具，便是希望拥有稻荷神的力量。 </p>
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<p>出了金森红砖仓库，天色早已暗了下来，冬日的函馆啊，下午四点左右就提前进入了夜晚。街对面「幸运小丑汉堡」的店铺灯火通明，再向远处望就是黑色的大海了。</p>
<p>走在路上，海风有些刺骨，远处和近处的路灯闪闪烁烁，有种港口城市独有的韵味。紧了紧衣领，夜深了，这是在北国的第一个夜晚。</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/100e1e000001f96wd4806_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg02.c-ctrip.com/images/100e1e000001f96wd4806_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<p>「函馆明治馆」</p>
<p>地址：11-17 Toyokawacho, Hakodate, Hokkaido 040-0065 日本</p>
<p>营业时间：9:30-18:00</p>
<p>「金森红砖仓库」</p>
<p>地址：14-12 Suehirocho, Hakodate, Hokkaido 040-0053 日本</p>
<p>营业时间：9:30-19:00</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="100238640">【Greenpia滑雪场：小白的冰雪初体验】</h5>
<p>如果说来函馆的第一天是在追溯城市历史，那么第二天就是投奔自然的怀抱了，冬天的函馆，当然要滑雪了！函馆周边一共有三处滑雪场：Greenpia大沼滑雪场、函馆七饭滑雪场、Niyama高原滑雪场。 </p>
<p>今天起了大早，我们驱车到大沼公园附近的Greenpia滑雪场开始了一天的冰雪之旅。相比于另外两家滑雪场，Greenpia的功能更全一些，滑雪场就在Greenpia度假村内，从新手魔毯道到高级赛道一应俱全，还可以租赁香蕉船和雪圈，即使完全不会滑雪的人也可以玩的很开心，很适合一家人度假哦。</p>
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<p>换上滑雪服和双板，我还是乖乖的来了新手道。和之前滑过的雪道比起来，函馆的雪滑一些，更不好控制平衡。还好可以请教练，系统的教一下滑雪，就是我旁边的这位荧光绿哥哥啦。</p>
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<p>向下滑的过程中，教练会全程弯腰扶住滑雪板控制方向，倒着一点一点往下滑。我自己滑了好多次，在跟教练学了之后才知道，改变方向靠的不是脚去控制，而是靠身体重心的改变，想要往左，身体稍微往左倾斜一点点，就好了。剩下的，就是慢慢去找到身体间的平衡了。</p>
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<p>摔倒、站起来、滑下来、爬上去，感觉刚刚开始渐入佳境，两个小时就已经过去了，只要开始滑雪，时间就像按了加速键一样过的飞快。剩下的一点时间，当然要留给雪圈了！</p>
<p>不用任何技巧，放松躺在雪圈上，轻轻一推，就从坡上旋转着滑下来了，这是最简单的快乐了！</p>
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<p>地址：229 Akaigawa, Mori, Kayabe District, Hokkaido 049-2142</p>
<p>营业时间：9:00-16:00 周末夜场 17:00-20:45也会开放</p>
<p>人均消费：滑雪场对酒店客人（八折）、滑雪课程学员以及除此之外的滑雪者收取不同的价格，我整理在下面的图片中，方便大家查看。</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100238601">【七饭滑雪场Peak Cafe：索道尽头就是茫茫雪国了】 </h5>
<p>将Greenpia比做人间烟火气的话，七饭滑雪场就是只应天上有的雪国。到了这里，我关于北海道的所有幻想，都成真了。 </p>
<p>从车上下来，七饭的工作人员笑着跟我说，您来的时间刚好，昨天晚上刚下了一场暴雪，整座山都是银装素裹的，她冬天最美的模样，被您瞧见了呀。</p>
<p>雪包裹了一切，就连山脚下的卡车，都变得好看极了。</p>
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<p>七饭的滑雪道更为专业，从山顶滑下来，经过一片原始丛林。这边有适合我这种小白的简单的滑道，也有这种穿山越岭的专业滑道。来这里，是为了去山顶的咖啡厅，一座拥有落地窗的，遗世而独立的咖啡厅。 </p>
<p>从山脚坐缆车上山，也是此行最最最深刻的一场回忆，3319米的长吊舱式缆车，是北海道最长的索道。从山脚坐到山顶，竟要十多分钟时间。进入森林，七饭的美景开始在眼前慢慢展开了，高大的松树被积雪裹得严严实实，随缆车上升，与我们狭路相逢。林间安静极了，没有丝毫声音，只留下我惊呼不断的赞叹声。 </p>
<p>雪啊，在丛林中才是最美的。</p>
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<p>到了山顶，亦是一片白茫茫，滑雪者从高处滑下，只留一地空白。雪道两旁的积雪，细腻绵软，足以淹没膝盖，偷偷伸出来的每根枝桠上，都担着厚厚的一层积雪，轻轻一碰，就在逆光中下起了一场金色的“人工雪”。掏出昨天在红砖仓库买的小狐狸面具，这里真的太美了。</p>
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<p>山顶的咖啡厅，叫做Peak Cafe，以西餐为主，也可以吃到好吃的咖喱饭，再喝一杯咖啡，身心都暖和起来了。坐在落地窗前，点一份日式汉堡肉，一边吃着，一边可以透过落地窗瞧远处的山。</p>
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<p>这里可以看到的，是对面的驹岳，还有很远很远处的羊蹄山。</p>
<p>驹岳的名字来源于她山体的形状，因为她平滑优美的倾斜面，看起来像是马的耳朵、马鞍和马背，所以称之为驹。但这个侧面确实不是先天形成的，而是在一次火山爆发中，山峰塌陷，这才成了现在的样子。</p>
<p>很远很远很远处的羊蹄山，只有在天气极佳的情况下才能够看到，这次被我们瞧见了，真是幸运到极点啦。</p>
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<p>在七饭呆了很久很久，直到只剩下最后一班下山的索道，我才恋恋不舍的回去了。一路上，天边火烧云热烈的鲜艳着，独属于七饭的美，也深深的刻在了心里。到了函馆，一定一定要来七饭看看呐。</p>
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<p>地址：666 Higashionuma, Nanae, Kameda District, Hokkaido, 041-1351 日本</p>
<p>营业时间：9:00-16:00</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100238662">【函馆山的日与夜：百万蓝与百万金】 </h5>
<p>想要一览港口城市的全貌，来函馆山吧，这里的夜景被《米其林绿色指南·日本》评为三星景观，三星是米其林指南中最高的评价，意思是“值得专程一游”。 </p>
<p>函馆山坐落于函馆市区的西南方向，是御殿山和杜鹃山等大大小小13座山岳的统称。站在334米的函馆山顶眺望远处，整座城市被两侧海湾切割出对称的月牙形海岸线，狭长中带着妩媚。我在一天之内去了两次函馆山，一次清晨，一次夜晚。</p>
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<p>我在一天之内去了两次函馆山，一次清晨，一次夜晚。</p>
<p>天气通透的清晨，整座城市都笼罩在神秘的蓝色之中，远处的天空稍有一点点粉色，紧接着太阳就爬了上来，用光揭开了城市的面纱，颜色又变为淡蓝色。万物始于晨，这是我心中函馆山最美的样子。</p>
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<p>晚上的函馆，最好的拍摄时间是在太阳刚刚开始日落的时候，天光还在，城市的灯光也纷纷亮起，眼前的一切都变成了金色的。我从七饭回来，来的时间稍微晚了些，天色已经大暗，城市的灯火在夜色中闪闪烁烁，百万美景名副其实。</p>
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<p>登函馆山的人非常多，即使是寒风凛冽的冬天，山脚下的缆车也排起了长长的队伍，缆车票可以买往返的，记得保存好票根，下山时候还会检查。从山下到山上的这一小段索道行程，也很有看头，所以在缆车上，尽量靠四周位置站，这样就能看到脚下的坂道和洋房渐渐变小变远，最后变成一地的碎金。 </p>
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<p>山顶的观光塔一共有三层，一层有落地玻璃窗可以看函馆全景，还很贴心的配了暖气跟座椅，坐在这里可以一边暖暖的烤着脚，一边欣赏风景，是最舒服的选择了。二层走的是浪漫风，可以在热那亚餐厅一边用餐一边看夜景，空间相对私密，很适合来这里约会。</p>
<p>三层则是勇士层了，适合摄影爱好者架脚架，拍大风光。冬天来第三层观景，防寒一定要做好，尤其要带好帽子哦，因为山顶真的真的太冷了！</p>
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<p>地址：Hakodateyama, Hakodate, Hokkaido 040-000日本</p>
<p>营业时间：10:00-20:00</p>
<p>人均消费：往返索道成人票价1500日元，单程索道1000日元，在函馆山索道的自动售票机或人工柜台都可以购买。</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="100238670">【八幡坂：文化中的坂道情节】 </h5>
<p>在日本的文艺作品中，坂道是一个非常重要的场景，《情书》里看得见大海的船见坂，《好想告诉你》中开满樱花的坂道，就连动漫《你的名字》中男女主人公的相遇，也选择在坂道上。 </p>
<p>坂道意味着美好的远方，也意味着美好的相遇。在坂道上驻足时，不同水平面的风景在眼前按照透视法则依次排开，既有开阔之感，也有纵深的厚度，就像站在一幅构图完美的画前。而沿着向前延伸的道路往下走，我们也渐渐的走入画中，成为美好事物的一部分。 </p>
<p>函馆由山向海的地势造就了许多坂道，19九条分布在西洋建筑与洋风民宅的坂道，构成了“坂道巡游”，如果时间充足的话，可以搭上有轨电车，细细的逛遍这些坂道。</p>
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<p> 在这些坂道中，最有名的就是我去的「八幡坂」了，从函馆山看完夜景来这条路上走一走，两侧橘色的路灯向远处延伸，夜色的尽头就是大海了。八幡坂下的海面上，一直停着一艘游船，那是青函联络船「博物馆摩周丸号」，从1991年起便永久的停靠在这座港湾内，成了八幡坂风景中永远的一分子。</p>
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<p>「八幡坂」的名字因坡道上的八幡宫而得名，后来受火灾影响，1880年时函馆八幡宫迁址到现在的谷地头町，但是八幡坂的名字却保留下来，反复在影视剧作品当中出现。</p>
<p>走在夜色中的八幡坂，这里仿佛有着操控时光的魔法。在这条路上，时间仿佛慢了下来，若是回到青春时光，放学后和喜欢的男生一起推着单车并肩走回家，该是多浪漫的回忆呀。</p>
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<p>地址：Hachimandori, Motomachi, Hakodate, Hokkaido, 040-0054 日本</p>
<p>营业时间：全天</p>
<p>人均消费：免费</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="100238628">【一文字：来一碗暖呵呵的盐味拉面吧】 </h5>
<p>经过了一天漫长且寒冷的室外活动，当然要吃点暖和的拉面填饱肚子啦。到了函馆，一定要尝尝这里的盐味拉面。传说由横滨南京街的中国居民流传来的拉面就是清澈的盐味拉面，有一拨传到了北海道函馆，原始的盐味拉面便在这片土地坚强的活了下来，并影响了整个北海道地区的拉面口味——普遍偏咸。 </p>
<p>在汤之川的海边，坐落着「一文字」本店，这是在北海道数一数二的地道盐味拉面店。点了一碗地道的盐味拉面，嘿，汤头都是金黄色的！据说大部分的盐味拉面，为了汤头不产生浑浊，都是用小火慢慢熬煮豚骨、昆布和蔬菜，再以这个汤为底加粗盐与岩盐调味而成的，看着清澈，味道却格外浓郁。</p>
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<p>面汤有透明感，漂浮着金黄色的油脂，吃到嘴里，面坚韧，叉烧软糯，稍微嚼几口，就一起融化在口腔中了。桌上还惊喜的配了蒜瓣儿，以及压蒜泥的小工具，配着蒜瓣儿吃拉面，恍然中有了种回到东北的感觉。</p>
<p>近年来，拉面师傅为了适应现代人的口味，也将盐味拉面做了不少创新改良，酱油盐味拉面、“担担面”应运而生，不过在冬季漫长的北海道，多一些浓郁的味道，或许也可以多一些熬过寒冷的底气吧。</p>
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<p>一碗拉面配份煎饺，吃饱了，回到酒店泡个汤。在函馆的第二天，就这样幸福的结束了。</p>
<p>地址：2-1-3 Yunokawacho, Hakodate, Hokkaido 042-0932 日本</p>
<p>营业时间：11:00-1:00（+1）</p>
<p>人均消费：900JPY（只收现金）</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="100238632">【函馆朝市：老板，来一碗新鲜的海鲜丼！】 </h5>
<p>在函馆的第三天，是悠闲地逛吃之旅。期待了很久的函馆朝市，今天终于可以去啦！ </p>
<p>如果用两个词来形代表函馆，我想「朝市」与「夜景」最为贴切，函馆生活的烟火气，都被热热闹闹的概括在这四个字里了。放眼北海道，函馆朝市无论从规模还是名气上，都数一数二，紧邻函馆车站的绝佳位置，也让函馆朝市的人气不断上升。 </p>
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<p>朝市从1945年开始营业，至今已有75年历史，是位奶奶级的市场啦。占地3公顷，容纳了250家店铺，不仅可以买到北海道特有的新鲜食品，还有可以点餐的餐厅，住在附近，来吃个早饭的功夫，就能把朝市逛个大概了。</p>
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<p>八点左右来到函馆朝市，这里早已挤满熙熙攘攘的食客，街道两旁烤螃蟹的摊位早早的摆了出来，蟹肉香味伴着蒸汽扶摇直上，一直钻到我的鼻子里，好饿，开动！</p>
<p>边逛边吃，先来一份烤扇贝，清洗干净的扇贝肉挖出来，放在专门挑出来的结实的扇贝壳上，原汁原味的烧烤就开始了，阿婆小小的烤炉上，一次最多可以烤四只扇贝，烤好后冒着热气的贝壳拿在手里，站在路边，几分钟就吃光了，像是回到了小时候吃路边摊的感觉。</p>
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<p>函馆朝市很大，除了街边的摊位，还有四个室内区域。</p>
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<p>A区以海产物和农产作物（水果蔬菜）为主，有少量餐厅，推荐尝尝函馆当地的哈密瓜，很甜哦，老板会帮忙切好，也是可以边走边吃，很方便。穿行在摊位中，老板们还会用中文来叫卖，还没来得及答应，他们手中的计算器就把价格敲了出来，好不热闹！</p>
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<p>B区以海产物和餐厅为主，区域中心就是很有名的钓活鱿鱼摊位，可以在这里自己钓活鱿鱼，让店家做成刺身吃，人气超高的，不过我们来的这天因为没有捕捉到足够数量的鱿鱼，所以没开业，有点可惜啦。</p>
<p>选了一家可以吃海鲜丼的餐厅，当然要点我最爱的海胆鲑鱼子双拼海鲜丼套餐咯！配着米饭一口吃下去，海胆的鲜跟鲑鱼子的甜交织在一起，随着米饭和口腔的温度融化成一滩鲜美无比的滋味，这是千金难换的绝世好味道。</p>
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<p> 风卷残云的吃完，再喝下热乎乎的味增汤，这个早晨就彻底被美食唤醒了。 </p>
<p>看看手机，时间也才不过九点。 </p>
<p>在函馆，吃鲜要趁早。 </p>
<p>地址：9-19 Wakamatsucho, Hakodate, Hokkaido,040-0063 日本 </p>
<p>营业时间：6:00-14:00</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="100238693">【大沼国定公园：冰雪之上的“坐禅”】 </h5>
<p>函馆说小也小，市区逛上两三天，足以逛完。函馆说大也大，附近的大沼、七饭，开车1小时可达，在国立公园里随便逛逛，就可消磨掉大半天的时光。 </p>
<p>吃过早饭，驱车前往大沼国定公园。这是日本的新三景之一（大沼公园、三保松原、耶马溪），也是北海道面积最小的国定公园，由大沼、小沼、莼菜沼，以及126个岛屿、32个湖湾组成，距离我昨天去的七饭滑雪场很近。 </p>
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<p>这次来，是为了——冰钓！虽然从小是在北方长大，但我还从来没有尝试过冰上钓鱼的滋味呢。来到大沼已是中午，冰湖上已经坐下了十余个钓鱼爱好者，塑料箱子当座椅，人手一个小小的钓竿，一只黄色小桶，还有一把用来把冰洞上薄薄的浮冰敲开的勺子。 </p>
<p>租了全套设备，工作人员还会细心的叮嘱钓鱼方式：鱼竿很细，上面一共有四个鱼钩，每个间隔在3厘米左右，底部是个小小的铅锤，把鱼线放进洞口时，要完全垂直的放入洞口，才能保证细小的鱼钩不会刮在冰面，或者缠绕在一起。 </p>
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<p>鱼钩下了水，接下来就是漫长的等待了，阳光好的时候坐在这里晒晒太阳，“坐坐禅”，也是蛮舒服的一件事，可以穿件黑衣服，更吸热～刚开始钓鱼的时候，我还蛮紧张，双手紧握着鱼竿，隐隐地总会有鱼竿下沉，但每次快速提上来都是空钩。 </p>
<p>这样钓了半小时后，没有收获，索性把鱼竿放在地上，去周围转了转。没想到再回来，鱼钩上竟然挂满了鱼！收工，吃鱼去咯！ </p>
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<p>冰钓湖的旁边，就是做炸鱼的小店，按照天妇罗的方式，加上香葱将鱼炸脆，自己加辣椒和盐巴做调味，酥脆的口感吃到嘴里，是很难得的味道哦。 </p>
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<p>地址：1023-1 Onumacho, Nanae, Kameda District, Hokkaido 041-1354 日本</p>
<p>营业时间：1月-3月，根据天气而定，具体时间需要查阅公园Facebook主页通知</p>
<p>人均消费：成人1600日元，小学生以下儿童1300日元，炸鱼加工另外收费500日元（如果钓的鱼不够，会给补齐一盘的数量）</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="100238702">【Sushi-dokoro Kihara寿司料理：绝美风景与舌尖盛筵】 </h5>
<p>如果让函馆当地人推荐一家最好吃，最有格调的寿司店，得到的多半答案是「Sushi-dokoro Kihara」。寿司店就在昨天吃晚饭的「一文字」附近，吸取了昨天的经验，今天特意预定好了中午的位置，这样就可以一边吃饭一边欣赏海边的风景啦。 </p>
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<p>因为人多，我们点了寿司大拼盘，店内所有种类的寿司全都要了个遍，很多没吃过没见过的鱼种类，这次一下子就见识全了！ </p>
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<p>我把每个寿司的名字都标在了图片上，挑几个比较有意思的寿司来说吧。</p>
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<p>鲷鱼：生鲷鱼入口内敛，细细咀嚼就能品出甘甜的味道。日本有句俗语叫做“花中樱，鱼中鲷”，可见鲷鱼在日本的地位之高。他还有一个别名，叫做“日本鱼王”，这可是享誉海内外的三文鱼、金枪鱼都担待不起的名号。鲷鱼在日本的影视作品中也经常出现，甚至成为日本的吉祥物，日本神话中的海神「惠比寿」，就是以左手抱鲷鱼，右手持钓竿的形象出现的。</p>
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<p>北极贝：第一次见到顶部是紫褐色的北极贝，我以为是新品种，细细问了才知道，原来新鲜的北极贝都是紫色的，不过出于保存需要和成本考虑，大多数打捞的北极贝都会立刻进行清洗、去壳、煮熟和急冻处理，再运输至市场，因此市面上大多数红色的北极贝刺身，其实都是冷冻后的熟贝肉。</p>
<p>金枪鱼：吃金枪鱼的讲究也颇多，按照部分来分，可以分为「大肥」、「中腹」和「赤身」。「大肥」是整个金枪鱼脂肪最多、价格最贵的部分，入口口感格外肥美甘甜，图上的大腩就属于「大肥」的部分。「赤身」则是脂肪最少，颜色最深的部分，在金枪鱼体内的分布也是最广泛的，尤其集中在围绕脊骨的部分，入口有些许酸，只有细细嚼下去，才能释放金枪鱼本身的味道。</p>
<p>吃的时候，店家建议我们先吃盘子四周的寿司，把味道最鲜甜，最惊艳的海胆和鲑鱼子留在最后，这样才不会遮盖掉其他食物的味道。吃真的是一门大学问啊！</p>
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<p>生食吃过之后，又点了份茶碗蒸，内容也丰富的让人不得不惊讶，顶层的蒸蛋上点缀着厚实的蟹腿肉和香菇片，一边吃一边往下挖，还会惊喜的发现鲍鱼和各种贝类，超级有料，味甜的口感，吃下去分量十足。 </p>
<p>配上窗外的绝美海景，真的不虚此行了！</p>
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<p>地址：2-1-3 Yunokawacho, Hakodate, Hokkaido 042-0932 日本 </p>
<p>营业时间：12:00-20:30（星期三休息）</p>
<p>人均消费：午餐5000日元，晚餐10000日元（包厢有最低消费，不过景色也最美）</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="100238797">【函馆市热带植物园：良辰美景与猴生】 </h5>
<p>吃过午饭，从寿司店步行300米，就到了函馆市热带植物园了，在这里可以看到仙人掌等品种繁多的热带植物，还会定期举办适合小朋友们参与的活动。不过这里最吸引游人的，还是每年冬春季在此泡温泉的猴子们。</p>
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<p>从热带植物园的大门进来，左手边人群聚集的地方，就是猴子温泉。温泉池并没有想象中的大，每年12月到第二年5月，植物园饲养的日本猕猴们就会跑到温泉池里面泡澡。</p>
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<p>它们一泡就是一整天，小脸都泡的红彤彤的，有些猴子连毛都掉干净了，竟有了点小人儿的样子。互相捉捉虱子，偶尔再打打架，这日子过的比神仙还舒服。不过，猴子之间也有森严的等级制度，并不是所有猴子都可以下去泡温泉的。 </p>
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<p>在植物园还可以花100日元买袋猴子的喂食，跟温泉里的猴子来一个接球小游戏。或许是见了太多的游人，这里的猕猴竟也学会了“逗”游客，看到手里拿着喂食的人，就会朝人挥挥手，再拍拍双手，示意人把吃的丢给他。我在喂的时候就遇到一只超级机灵的猕猴，每次丢给他的食物，都像传球般接的刚刚好。而有些猕猴就佛系的多，食物丢过来，伸手能接到的就吃吃看，接不到的就任由它滚落在地上，俨然一副没所谓的样子。 </p>
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<p>现在植物园里的猕猴俨然成了网红，每到函馆下雪的日子，就有不少游客前来看他们，雪中猕猴闭着眼睛泡温泉的享受样子，真的羡煞了不少人呢。 </p>
<p>地址：3 -1- 1 5 Yunokawacho, Hakodate, Hokkaido 042-0932 日本</p>
<p>营业时间：9:30-16:30（11月-3月），9:30-18:00（4月-10月）</p>
<p>人均消费：300日元</p>
<p>摄影贴士：温泉猕猴距离围栏还有一定距离，建议带长焦拍摄，200mm焦段就可以啦，不特别要求画质的话，用现在有长焦功能的手机也可以拍摄。</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100238804">【五棱郭闲逛：函馆人的“共享”精神】 </h5>
<p>从热带植物园出来，我们便直奔五棱郭准备看夜景了。从这边的电车站下车，刚好就是商场，既然还有时间，就来逛逛买些伴手礼吧！这座2017年开业的「SHARE STAR HAKODATE」是函馆的一个全新复合设施，一楼到三楼是「无印良品」，四楼是公共空间「G Square」。商场的名字饱含深意，「STAR」代表星星形状的五棱郭，「SHARE」代表大家可以在这里共同分享函馆最美好的事情——商铺、餐厅、公共休憩空间，还有北海道最大的无印良品。 </p>
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<p>逛在这里，让我对「无印良品」有了颠覆性的认知，这里不再只是卖衣物和杂货的小店铺，而是集合了书籍、家具和特色手工艺展的复合性空间。而且共享的概念在这里无处不在，书店MUJI BOOKS里提供了阅读桌椅，可以看书，觉得喜欢了再买，家具区域也提供了充足的休息空间，很多来五棱郭碰头的朋友都会选择在这里见面，聊聊天，歇歇脚，喝点东西。还有供小孩子玩的游乐区，所有玩具都是环保的木制品。可以借用的会议室，供大学生使用的自习区域，而这一切都是免费的。</p>
<p>我不禁问这里的工作人员，如果每个人都是来这里免费自习和休息，那你们怎么卖货赚钱呢？她只是笑笑说，我们的信念就是大家来了之后，休息够了，学习累了，能够顺便逛一逛店，顺便买一两件东西就好了。</p>
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<p>我最喜欢的，是这里的Found MUJI，世界各地有特色的日常用品都被收集在这里，而且会定期更换主题。</p>
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<p>还有刺绣工作室，在这里购买的帆布包、手帕、衬衫都可以请这里的工作人员帮忙刺绣，图案选择很多，是很有趣的体验！</p>
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<p>在「SHARE STAR HAKODATE」的顶层，还有日本国民摇滚乐队GLAY的纪念墙和纪念音乐钟，乐队的四个成员中，有三个都是生长于函馆，因此经常会有他们的乐迷来此处参观。音乐钟从早上十点开始到晚上九点，每小时都会演奏一次他们的代表作，十二首歌不重复，想要来看的乐迷可以算好时间哦。</p>
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<p>「SHARE STAR HAKODATE」</p>
<p>地址：24-1 Honcho, Hakodate, Hokkaido 040-0011 日本</p>
<p>营业时间：10:00-20:00</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100238727">【和果子与洋果子：甜甜蜜蜜的伴手礼】 </h5>
<p>从「SHARE STAR HAKODATE」的地下通道过马路，就到了街对面的「丸井今井」函馆店，这里就是函馆最大的商场了。顶层是女装和化妆品也会办一些活动，6层是儿童用品，5层是生活用品和珠宝，4层是男装，3层到1层以此是女装，女士杂货，化妆品。地下一层则是汇聚了当地特色食物和伴手礼的卖场。马上就要离开函馆了，就在这里采购伴手礼吧！</p>
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<p>「千秋庵总本家」</p>
<p>这是一家日式点心老店。代表商品叫袁祖善亲爷。函馆算是受到西洋文化影响城市，这家用黄油和牛奶代替清水，算是日式洋式折中的煎饼，非常有函馆特色。</p>
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<p>「六花亭」</p>
<p>北海道最著名的和果子老店，最出名的单品就是草莓夹心巧克力了，外表看起来是平平无奇的白巧克力球，内心则是一个熟透的草莓冻干。入口先是甜度适中的白巧克力口感，紧接着就是酸酸甜甜的草莓干了，绵软和脆爽，甜与酸的搭配，是我的最爱啦。</p>
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<p>「PASTRY SNAFFLE’S」</p>
<p>函馆有名的洋果子店，最出名的单品是芝士蛋糕，乳酪蛋糕，比较适合坐下来配着咖啡慢慢吃。我买了写着函馆限定饼干，名字叫「Langue de Calamar」。在发酵黄油曲奇的基础上加入了函馆特产鱿鱼的味道。味道不是特别具有特点，不过做伴手礼，是函馆很好的代表啦，因为鱿鱼也是这里的特产～</p>
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<p>还可以找到第一天吃的「五岛轩」的周边产品——咖喱酱，可以把在函馆吃到的好味道都带回家啦！</p>
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<p>「丸井今井函馆」</p>
<p>地址：32-15 Honcho, Hakodate, Hokkaido 040-0011 日本</p>
<p>营业时间：10:00-19:00</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="100238733">【五棱郭公园：夜空中最亮的星】 </h5>
<p>走出商场，天色已黑，是时候去五棱郭看看啦。</p>
<p>形状极为浪漫的五棱郭公园，没想到是江户时代建造的一个星形要塞城郭，也是日本第一个以西洋建筑方式建造的城堡。建成五角形，是为了在每一面城墙上应对敌人时都有一定角度，这样敌方的火炮很难正面攻击城墙，从而大大减少了炮弹对城墙的杀伤力。 </p>
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<p>五棱郭在江户幕府末期开始动工，原本用于抵御外敌，却没想到在建成之后只经历了一场战争，还是内战——开启明治维新的戊辰战争。作为佐幕派的最后大本营——“虾夷共和国”，在德川家投降后继续对抗明治政府，直到1869年五棱郭被朝廷的军队攻克，佐幕派才彻底失败。 </p>
<p>现在的五棱郭，一片宁静祥和，自然之美与庙宇之静完美的结合在了一起，又有谁能想到这里曾经是兵戎相向之地呢？</p>
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<p>2006年，五棱郭的旁边建起了107米高的五棱郭塔，登高望远，可以看到函馆山、津轻海峡、还有五棱郭的星空。</p>
<p>五棱郭塔的关门时间在晚上六七点，冬天函馆4点多就天黑了，刚好可以在晚饭前登塔看灯光秀——梦彩灯，可以看到由灯光点亮的五角星。还可以将愿望写在长条诗笺，挂在展望台的「五棱星之梦圣诞树」上，据说这样愿望就会成真哦。</p>
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<p>五棱郭可爱的样子，不止在冬天，更是在春季。当樱花布满整个五棱郭公园，五角星就从冬季的雪白变为春季的樱花粉，和心爱的人一起泛舟湖上，看樱花片片飘落，变成一艘艘粉色的樱花小船，在水上随波漂啊荡啊，去了那可期的远方。 </p>
<p>函馆，待到春花烂漫的时节，我一定会再来的呀！</p>
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<p>地址：43-9 Goryokakucho, Hakodate, Hokkaido, 040-0001 日本</p>
<p>营业时间：9:00-18:00</p>
<p>人均消费：公园免费，五棱郭塔900日元</p>
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