卢布尔雅那：亚得里亚海巡礼
<p>2016年11月，我们结婚了</p><p>2017年11月，结婚一年，自驾去 摩洛哥 </p>
<p>2018年11月，结婚两年，自驾去 摩洛哥 </p>
<p>2019年11月，结婚三年，他提议再次去 摩洛哥 。。。</p>
<p>“亲爱的，年年去 摩洛哥 ，你不腻吗？”</p>
<p>“那我们去亚德里亚海岸走走，如何？”</p>
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<p>11月休了11天的年假，准备去亚德里亚海沿岸的国家逛逛。工作之后，每天忙得找不着北，这次临时决定的旅行也没有足够的时间去准备。遂报团出行，第一次参团，6天5个国家。从 慕尼黑 出发，一直到1千公里外的 杜布罗夫尼克 ，想想都觉得疯狂。</p>
<p>出发前，我不知道我们团友会有多少人，据说最多会是能容纳35人的大巴。当我们从 慕尼黑 出发时，发现加上司机兼导游，才8个人。车上除了司机，还有一家三口和一对老人。就这样，临时的一家“五口”，加我俩夫妻，包一辆大众9座商务车和带司机导游出行。瞬间由跟团出行，变成VIP包车游。</p>
<p> “预告片，撒点糖，以防下文被甜到齁”</p>
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<em class="name">哈尔施塔特</em>
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<em class="name">杜布罗夫尼克</em>
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<em class="name">斯普利特</em>
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<em class="name">普利特维采湖群国家公园</em>
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<em class="name">布莱德湖</em>
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<em class="name">哈尔施塔特</em>
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<em class="name">杜布罗夫尼克</em>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100179264">奥地利藏有一个“最美”小镇</h5>
<p>从 慕尼黑 出发去 奥地利 ，一路上云雾缭绕。在 德国 境内，那些参天 大树 黝黑如泥，在雾气里透出寒意，果然是传说中的 黑森 林。进入 奥地利 境内，车外的颜色瞬间明亮，远处藏在云端的阿比斯山脉若隐若现，山坡上的牛羊在安静地吃草，树丛中的颜色从墨绿，再夹杂着明黄和深红，这正是秋天的模样。</p>
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<em class="name">奥地利</em>
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<em class="name">奥地利</em>
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<p>哈尔斯塔 特是 奥地利 哈尔斯塔 特湖畔的一个村庄，人口不足一千。它得名于“hall”，即“盐”，古老的 凯尔 特人从公元前两千年开始开采盐矿，以至于当地居民富甲一方。如今盐坑已经停止作业，但会开采一些做纪念品卖给游客。除了盐外，当地居民的木雕品也做得很精致，且每个店铺设计风格不一，房子也被装饰得非常特别。</p>
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<p>穿过一条长长的隧道，我们终于看到 哈尔斯塔 特湖的容貌。沿山的公路旁是一潭蔚蓝的湖水，湖对面的树木高耸林立。在隧道出口的停车场下车后，大家步行入村庄。从村口走到观景台，大概半小时，但要细细品味这里的风味，需小住一晚。</p>
<p>我俩流连于错落有致的小道中，沿着山坡忽上忽下，每一次回头都能看到不同的风景。小镇上的游客实在太多， 亚洲 游客居多，只有越过观景台之后的道路，人才逐渐减少。我们在人满为患的观景台旁等一波波游客拍照后离去，挑了一个人稍微少的时机，拍了几张照片。这个黄金机位拍摄出来的 哈尔斯塔特照片，据说无人不晓。可是，在来 哈尔斯塔 特之前，我真没有见过这张照片，也没有听过这个地方。</p>
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<p>顺着小路爬上山坡，著名的人骨教堂就在道路终点。由于 哈尔斯塔 特依山傍湖，寸土如金，当地去世的人口，随着人数的增加，墓地容纳不下。所以埋葬10年后的骸骨将被移出坟墓，腾出位置让别人下葬，骸骨放到教堂旁的洞穴中，日积月累，这里便堆满了骸骨。站在教堂的围栏旁，能俯瞰整个小镇，尤其是山脚下的基督教路德教堂 Lutheran Kirche，教堂高耸的塔尖在湖水的倒影和群山的环抱中，指向天堂。</p>
<p>那些埋葬在地里的“新墓”布置得特别的美，我们在小小的墓园里游走，完全不觉得瘆人。漂亮的墓碑和装饰品让我忍不住驻足观赏。每一个墓前摆放着不一样的花束，比过圣诞节的装饰还精致，出于对死者的尊重，我只拍下那些美得令人惊叹的装饰。</p>
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<p>由于我们并不在 哈尔斯塔 特过夜，所以留在这里的时间不多。我们的午餐是坐在湖边随意解决的， 西班牙 香肠+ 德国 面包/啤酒+坚果。呼吸着从湖面飘来的清新空气，太阳也很给面子，在下午时竟露出半边脸。我们坐在太阳的余温里，边喝啤酒边吃“午餐”，酒劲上来后，脸都红了，这可省了画腮红。我们在小路里乱窜，每一个拐角都藏着惊喜。真不愧是“最美小镇”，美的不止是明信片上那张图片，更是当地人用心呵护和点缀他们的家园。</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100179234">萨瓦河畔的首都 — 卢布尔雅那</h5>
<p>我们到达 卢布尔雅那 时，才下午7点。黄橙橙的路灯下，那些典型的80年代房屋在车窗外掠过时，我怎么感觉这里太不“ 欧洲 ”。</p>
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<p>黑乎乎的街道上不见几个行人，唯一碰到的是三三两两结伴而行的 亚洲 游客。我们顺着导航去到1km外的龙桥附近匿食，跨过龙桥即进入老城区，那里理应是游客聚集地，也应当热闹些。一路上，我们居然要穿过一条连路灯都没有的街道，我看着心里发毛。所有的商店关门，路上连一辆车都没有。他在街上说胡话，我让他安静些，以免别人认出我俩是外国人，太不安全。而Fernando说他假装酒醉，这样别人就会避开我们。</p>
<p>到了龙桥时，我有些失望，它就是一座普通的桥。桥两边的河岸上，小酒吧和咖啡馆里也很冷清，才想起今天是万圣节哦，怪不得连个鬼影都没有。人们大概回家睡觉了。这座城市太低调！</p>
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<p>隔天早晨，再游老城时，商店的大门零零散散地开始营业，大多数当地人在教堂里做弥散。街道上全是游客， 亚洲 游客居多。这个时候，我才真正看到这座城市的可爱之处，作为首都，它显得太冷清。没有浓浓的政治气息，四处充满浓郁的小镇风格。</p>
<p>1895年，复活节前一天，这座城市遭受6.1级地震，大部分建筑被破坏。当它再次重建时，新艺术运动建筑和保留下的巴 洛克 风格合为一体。我们沿着 萨瓦 河畔漫步，咖啡馆里挤满了吃早餐的人们，河里一艘游船从远处划来。船上的人穿着60年代的复古装，优雅地站在船头聊天，莫不是穿越了？天空中传来“嗡嗡”声，一台无人摄影机在河面上盘旋。哦，原来是在拍电影。</p>
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<p>卢布尔雅那 大学是 斯洛文尼亚 历史最悠久、规模最大的大学，似乎也是这座城市的中心。我们在大学的广场上闲逛，我竟不知道这所学校和城市融为一体。这座大学今年刚满100岁，夏天时整座城市都在庆祝它的诞辰、陷入无尽的狂欢。而现在，整个校园还未睡醒，街道上一个人也没有。我对这个国家、这座城市、这所大学了解甚少，而它最出名的人竟是未毕业的梅拉尼娅.特朗普，现任 美国 总统特朗普的妻子，我也才知道她是 斯洛文尼亚 人。</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100179446">入秋后的扎达尔</h5>
<p>从 卢布尔雅那 到 克罗地亚 的 扎达尔 ，一路上天气放晴，终于终于再次看到阳光和海岸，这才是旅行。</p>
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<p>扎达尔 是 克罗地亚 位于亚得里亚海沿岸的一座城市，我们专程赶到这里看日落。在海边，有出名的海风琴（Sea Organ）和太阳敬礼（Sun Salutation），可为了防止太阳敬礼的太阳能板被损害，现在已经关闭。相对于太阳敬礼，我对海风琴更感兴趣。</p>
<p>曾经，有一个男孩住在 扎达尔 海边，他每天都会在海岸边玩耍，听着潮涨潮落的击水声。他觉得这个声音就像有节奏的音乐，像着要怎么样才能把海浪的声音变成真正的音乐。长大后，他设计特殊的管子，并把它们埋在 大理 石阶下，通过海浪和管子的撞击、共振演奏音乐。这一设计一出，立马得到人们的喜爱，成了 扎达尔 一大热门景点</p>
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<p>我们坐在阶梯上边吃 三明 治边听风琴乐，远处的夕阳快落入山头。金色的阳关照耀着整个海岸线，秋风徐徐从海上吹来。我们享受着难得的阳光，沉醉在一片祥和里。很多游客都在录制琴声，没有谁在海风琴边大声喧哗，只有大妈们的丝巾在风中飘扬。哈哈，我居然能在这么遥远的亚得里亚海岸看到那么多爱美的 中国 大妈们，还有为把大妈拍得更美，而使出浑身解数的大爷。此情此景，实在太美妙。看到到处是国人，心里自喜，我们的国家变得越来越好，人们才能越走越远，大妈的丝巾才能飘满全球。</p>
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<p>扎达尔 曾属于对岸的 威尼斯 共和 国，1679年修建的城门上 威尼斯 国徽——展开翅膀的 狮子 ，诉说着这座城市的历史。这里有 克罗地亚 最大的古 罗马 广场，还有修建于9世纪的 圣多纳 图斯教堂（St. Donatus）。教堂附近是古城最繁华的商业地带，被行人踩得发亮的 大理 石地板，游客如织。待我们拐入小巷，墙壁上还留有战时留下的弹孔，屋里依然亮着灯，人们在战后没有重修房屋。我不明白其中缘由，是要铭记历史，还是不能忘却悲伤？</p>
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<p>深秋的 扎达尔 游客少之又少，小巷里的餐馆竟一个人也没有。大多数餐厅外是摆放整齐的餐桌，却无人问津。服务员在屋里伸长了脖子望向每一个路过的游客，我虽然想尝试一下推荐的餐厅，可是真的太荒凉，弄得我都不敢前往。我们在无人的街道晃荡，也难得找到一家有人烟的餐厅，遂决定回酒店吃自助。我想，夏季来临时，街道上必定热闹无比，餐厅门前的小路被挤得水泄不通。可现在，就像是一座被抛弃的城市，剩下耀眼的灯光，无人的气息。</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100179454">颠覆认知的杜布罗夫尼克</h5>
<p>杜布罗夫尼克 是一座保存完好的中世纪城市，始建于公元7世纪，目前保存着14-16世纪时期的哥特式、巴 洛克 式等建筑风格。它不同于其他城市的地方在于， 杜布罗夫尼克 依山而建，除市中心是一块平地，越往山上，房子只能建得越高，所以站在城市高处回头看脚下的阶梯，会是一副奇妙的画面。</p>
<p>来 杜布罗夫尼克 前，我知道它很美，我知道它是《权利与游戏》的取景地，我也看过它的照片。但当我真正走进这座古城，才知道为什么它能作为 克罗地亚 No1的景点，放眼 欧洲 ，它也是特别的存在。</p>
<p>太美了，太美了！</p>
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<p>出发前，我在网上查到的照片大都是碧海蓝天，配上古城橙红色的屋顶。但这一趟旅行，我们不知是幸还是不幸？一路上不是大雾就是下雨，到达目的地后，基本是浓云密布，人品爆发的时候会有几缕斜阳。</p>
<p>我们刚到达 杜布罗夫尼克 时，天上还飘着几粒小雨，海风肆虐，这种天气出海是不可能的，我们就在老城里呆着。爬上城墙，我们开始环绕古城。2.9km的城墙紧紧地环抱着它，走在城墙上，靠海的一面海风四起，我的裙摆随风起舞；而城内却是一派祥和，开得正艳的三角梅爬出庭院，葡萄树在墙角蔓延向上，院子里的猫咪在柠檬树下相互追逐，窗户外晾着的被单只是轻轻地飘动。</p>
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<p>走到靠山面时，仿佛穿行在屋顶上。狭窄的道路两旁，房顶触手可及，我踏着古老的砖瓦，和他一起穿过千百年。看过无数 欧洲 景色的Fernando，对 杜布罗夫尼克 的景色是惊叹无比。这与他生活的 欧洲那么不同，即使 马德里 的房子大多是2、300年前修建的， 西班牙 的村庄里也处处是5、600年的教堂，却没有哪座城市能像 杜布罗夫尼克 这样令人着迷。</p>
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<p>华灯初上，我们从城墙上下来，开始欣赏这座城市的中心。此时，游客渐渐离去，白日里熙熙攘攘的泰隆尼亚大道变得冷清。街道两旁亮起黄色的小灯，我们这才细看这座城市。 杜布罗夫尼克 在中世纪时是拉古萨 共和 国的首都，如今还保存着当时的总统府、航海大学、侍卫官邸和大钟楼。所有古迹里最为神奇的要数圣布莱斯教堂（Crkva Svetoga Vlaha），这座教堂建于1715年，在多次战争和自然灾害中从未倒塌，人们认为 杜布罗夫尼克 得到神的庇佑，所以这座教堂在人们的心里地位极高。主干道旁的圣方济修道院（Franciscan Monastery）内，保存着 欧洲 第三古老的药店，至今还在使用。可惜我们到达时药店已经歇业，实在可惜。</p>
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<p>?圣萨维尔教堂外有一块石头，相传古时，犯错误的人在接受审判前，需要站在这块石头上、贴着墙壁15秒。如果15秒内没有掉下来，说明上帝已经赦免他的罪行，可以减轻或免于处罚。如今，能站在上面15秒的人可以许愿，如果没有掉下来，愿望会实现哦。</p>
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<p>《权利与游戏》中君 临城 在 杜布罗夫尼克 取景有好几处， 多明尼加 修道院（Dominican Monastery）前的阶梯、派勒城门（Pile Gate）还有圣依纳爵堂（Crkva sv. Ignacija）门前的阶梯。白天路过国圣依纳爵堂，阶梯上熙熙攘攘。到了傍晚，游客少了许多，我们靠在围栏旁看着别人在下面热闹，遂转身走进教堂坐下。在 斯洛文尼亚 和 克罗地亚 ，很多教堂在弥撒时，不允许游客入内，更别提我们这些非教徒。Fernando是天主教，但从70年代 西班牙 开放后，宗教在他的国家消失得很快，现在连我婆婆这些老人都不去教堂做礼拜。而他出生在那个年代，小时候受过天主教各种严格的洗礼和仪式，也曾在教堂唱诗班里唱歌。现在，他认为自己不是天主教，只有旅行要拜访教堂时，才承认自己是教徒。。。他的上帝可能会被气倒。</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100179471">暴风雨中走过莫斯塔尔</h5>
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<p>莫斯塔尔 位于 波黑 （波斯尼亚和黑塞哥维那，名字太长）南部，曾在 波黑 战争中饱受战火的摧残。莫斯塔尔 因一座修建于1566年的古桥闻名于世，在九十年代的战争中被摧毁。当时联合国教科文组织谴谪发动战争的国家，可谁都不承认炸掉这座古桥。2001年古桥重建，就算重建后还能列入世界文化遗产中，可见它在历史上的地位如此重要。</p>
<p>这座拱形的石桥最高处20米，夏天时会有勇士从高处跳下。古时，这是当地的竞技活动，通过“跳桥”来选拔勇士。如今，“跳桥”变成了一项娱乐活动，勇士们凑款至一定数目，就会为大家表演一次。我们到达古桥时，倾盆大雨，别说跳桥了，连游客都没有几个。一下车，一堆吉普赛孩子涌上来讨钱。Fernando把巧克力分给他们，小孩子很开心，大一些的孩子只要欧元。不远处，一群吉普赛妇女抱着孩子站在雨伞下等孩子们讨钱回来。在 西班牙 有很多吉普赛人，他们的外形和穿着不同于当地人，说的西语也自带口音，所以很容易在人群辨别出来。我看到的吉普赛大多居无定所，从古时的大篷车改成如今的货车“房车”，他们依旧居住在城市的边缘，并不融入当地生活。</p>
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<p>大雨中的 莫斯塔尔 ，被云雾缭绕，附近的山头全都藏在浓云里，桥下的河水一片幽绿，和岸边墨绿色的植物相称，两边的房屋也在岁月的洗刷中变成黝黑。 莫斯塔尔 给我的感觉，是战争中被遗留下的残迹，加上天气原因，竟没有一丝明媚。</p>
<p>古桥将两岸的穆斯林族和 克罗地亚 族连接起来，战争过后，大家都希望人们能放下曾经的执念和敌意，重新生活。战争结束不到30年，经历过战争的人们还站在我的眼前。我们路过一家餐厅躲雨时，因为午餐时间尚早，大家坐着喝咖啡。老板居然会说 意大利 语，大家一起闲聊起来。他是 莫斯塔尔 人，在 意大利 呆了20多年，所以战乱时躲过一劫。直到近年 莫斯塔尔 稳定后，他才回到故乡，开了这家小餐厅。我觉得，与 意大利 精彩纷呈的生活相比， 莫斯塔尔 太过于简单。可人们还是希望回家，即使家园曾被摧毁，但只有回归了故土，内心才 会安 宁吧！</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100179480">海边的古罗马皇宫—斯普利特</h5>
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<p>斯普利特 这座 克罗地亚 第三 大城 市，曾经是 东欧 No1的造船厂，比经济更出名的是这座修建于公元三世纪的戴克里先宫。古 罗马 戴克里先大帝于293年，在他的故乡附近修建了这座戴克里先宫，宫殿完工后，他退位来此居住，成为 罗马 帝国第一位隐退的皇帝。整座宫殿沿海而建，现在靠海的一面已经成为颇有情调的餐厅。金银铜铁四扇大门，只有游客常出入的铁门保存完好。穿过铁门，进入宫殿的地下一层，现在变成购物街。整个宫殿和古城融合，我已经分不清哪里是宫殿，哪里又是居民楼。在公元七世纪，附近的 萨洛 纳城居民为躲避战乱纷纷涌进城墙厚实的宫殿，并在宫殿的基础上修建房屋、店铺。也就是1300年的“新房”，至今仍然有人居住。我走在偏僻的小巷，在某个转角，听到楼里传来琴声，哈哈，还以为穿越了。</p>
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<p>我们漫步在深巷中，路过一个个关门的店铺和安静的居民楼，一个路人也没有。在一个铁门后，红色的地毯铺到大门前，敞开的门让我不禁入内。这是好像是一个酒吧，白天的酒吧大门解锁，只有楼道上的窗户打开着。深红的地毯、爬满绿藤的墙壁和搞笑的雕塑品，还有狭窄的天空，一切都是为宴会而安排。我们为了不浪费资源，在这里放音乐、跳舞，犹如一场两个人的聚会。</p>
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<p>在古城的废墟和居民楼交界处，有一片空地。今天天气实在不好，浓云密布，海风猛烈拍打着，游客也很少。我倒喜欢这种“坏天气”，恰好可以包场。换上我的大摆裙，开始拍照。在宫殿的中心，临近天黑时，两边餐厅的灯亮起来，乌云也跟着爬进宫殿。大雨接踵而来，人们纷纷跑开，而我在这暴风雨中 成功 拍下最满意的照片。</p>
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<p>离开 斯普利特 前，大家提议去吃中餐，我们去了“东方之珠大酒店”吃晚餐。一听名字就特别气派，哈哈。大家一起凑成一桌美美地吃了一顿中餐。旅行已过一半，我和小伙伴们也渐渐熟悉起来。年轻的妈妈还说，我们这一桌就像是一家五口（父母＋孩子+爷爷奶奶）请两个外国朋友吃饭 。</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100179423">十六湖国家公园</h5>
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<p>克罗地亚 十六湖国家公园，全名 普利特维采湖群国家公园 ， 欧洲 版“ 九寨沟 ” 。喀斯特地貌沉淀池变成十六个湖泊，我没有细数到底有多少个湖泊，整个公园破有特色。据说 九寨沟 比这里更壮观，我没去过 九寨沟 ，所以这里对于我像是一片远离尘世的净土。</p>
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<p>我们是十一月上旬去的，刚好秋色正浓。一路上在下着大雨，不停地刷新天气预报，天气预报显示下午时湖区会放晴。看着这一路大雨，很担心山里的天气魔幻莫测。结果，人品大爆发，到了那里居然出太阳，秋天的景色在阳光里特别浓艳，我感动得都要哭了。我们绕着湖边看碧绿的水、火红的树叶，这里真是人家仙境。一路上多半是木板搭成的小道，反倒给景色加分。而且这个季节游客特别少，逛了小半天遇不到几十个人，很多地方都被我们承包了。</p>
<p>这个公园只有在坐渡轮的码头才有商店，其他地方很原始，所以我们自己准备了很多干粮，边吃边走，一点也不觉得累。</p>
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<p>从码头坐船开始，就分成了B、C线，我们去了C线的S2码头。下了船，跟着箭头转一圈，会再次回到码头，再到对岸的S1码头上摆渡车。最精彩的景色应该在上船之前，C线的景色虽不是特别出彩，但很特别。这一段路程的风景大不同，湖面不再那么宽广，每一个小湖泊各有特色。这段路程对于老年人不太合适，成人和6岁以上的孩子体力可以胜任。</p>
<p>最后，在S1码头估计等摆渡车会回到出口。我们在这里呆的时间大概4小时，如果不是天色渐暗，我可能会找一个地方睡上一觉才离开。</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100179512">萨格勒布</h5>
<p>我们夜里到达 萨格勒布 ，穿梭在车流中，撩开夜幕，渐渐看清这座城市。作为 克罗地亚 首都，它充满了浓郁的社会主义气息。 新城 的建筑跟国内的风格相似，黑漆漆的大广场上，一个亮着灯的喷泉在安静地工作。也许是冬天的缘故，广场的灯光全部熄灭，据说了夏夜，所有的灯会被打开，给城市增加活力，展现它作为首都该有的模样。</p>
<div class="img" style="width:800px" id="img483420959" data-likeid="483420959|3930817" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="483420959" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="483420959|73638665" data-referencecategory="1">
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<p>萨格勒布 古城是我最感兴趣的地方。古 罗马 时期，这里曾是一个小镇，随着时间的脚步推移，它发展成为一座颇有斯拉夫风格的城市。城市的东边是 萨格勒布 大教堂所在地，主要是神职人员和贵族居住的地方，而西部主要为农 民和 商人居住。古时，东西两边的人们互不相融，每次有人跨过分界线，就会有残杀和斗殴。这条划分东西部的街道也因此流满献血，被称为“血街”。</p>
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<p>圣母升天大教堂（Cathedral of Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary）是 萨格勒布 主教堂，它高耸的哥特式双塔尖在这座城市显得格外耀眼。这座教堂最初建于公元2世纪，在经过数次损毁、再修复才有了如今的规模。它最大的一次灾难，发生在1880年一次地震中。当年倒塌的塔尖和时钟被安放在教堂旁边，而时钟则记录着灾难发生的时刻。</p>
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<img data-original="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10031c000001dkmsk53F1_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg?proc=autoorient" src="https://dimg04.c-ctrip.com/images/10031c000001dkmsk53F1_R_800_10000_Q90.jpg">
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<div class="description">?防空洞，全场2km，在战乱时，可容纳全市人民。</div>
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<div class="description">?血街</div>
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<p>从主教堂到圣马可教堂的路上，路过古老的Gredec城门，它是古 罗马 时期保存下来的唯一 一个城门。1731年的一场大火把城门所有木制结构烧尽，唯独 石门 里的圣母子画像奇迹般的毫发无伤，所以人们相信时神迹发生。现在，城门被建成像一个小教堂，圣母像被放在这里供奉，很多信徒会在此祷告。</p>
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<p>圣马可教堂是 萨格勒布 最美也最出名的景点，教堂始建于12世纪，如今我们看到的教堂是19世纪重建。整个教堂面积并不大，属于可爱型教堂，最出彩的要看屋顶上的 马赛 克。左边是 克罗地亚 、 斯洛文尼亚 、达尔马提亚所组合的国徽，右边是 萨格勒布 的市徽。教堂现在是一个展览馆，不对外开放，但是光是看外观已经够美的。教堂左边是国会，除了挂着欧盟的旗子和国旗，我完全看不出它居然如此严肃。门口看不到守卫，连个路人甲也没有。</p>
<p>从教堂前的大路往下走，会路过“失恋博物馆”。据说“失恋博物馆”已经风靡全球，这却是第一个哦！我们一行人都和 和美 美，没人对“失恋”感兴趣。只是在门口瞟了一眼后，快速离开。倒反是下山时，在平台俯瞰整座城市美得惊人。</p>
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<p>参观完主教堂往回走几步，拐入一条小巷子就到了Dolac市场。可能是我们去得太早，菜农才开始摆摊。我们只好快速得穿过市场，去其他地方逛逛。等到我们再次逛回来，市场上的摊位前早已熙熙攘攘。我在阶梯下的花铺前驻足许久，这些 花都 太可爱，挑了一束红紫相交的花束，我高兴了一天。路过广场上的艺人在表演，他在弹唱一首节奏感欢快的歌曲，我一听，就对Fernando大呼“他在唱 西班牙语耶”，“不是，那是 意大利 语”。可是我明明都听得懂，哈哈。手里拿着喜欢的花，听着好听的音乐，要不是要赶路，我恨不得在广场上跳舞。 </p>
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<p>带着我的宝贝花束，我们离开这座在战后开始重生的城市。离开 萨格勒布 ，我们就要离开 克罗地亚 。我从未想过这个国家如此迷人，不论时风景或文明，它在 欧洲 都是特别的存在。</p>
<p>我的离开是暂时的，下一次，我们打算从 西班牙 开车来 克罗地亚 ，带上书本，慢慢走进斯拉夫民族。</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100179589">雨中漫步布莱德湖</h5>
<p>从 斯洛文尼亚 进入 申根 区，我们最后一次掏出护照检查，也将迎来此次旅行的最后一站 — 布莱德湖。我对 布莱德 湖的了解，是一张湖心岛的照片。来了之后才发现它不是一个景点，而是避暑胜地。夏天时，人们会聚集到湖边，所以湖的四周是各种度假酒店。下次再来，我觉得能住上一个星期。</p>
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<p>我们在前往 布莱德 湖的路上，大雨一刻也没有停过，估摸着湖区也会是大雨。好在这几天比较走运，在到达主要的古城时，天气还算不错。看惯了别人风和日丽的照片，我们来一场浪漫的雨中漫步有何不可。到了 布莱德 湖，果然下着大雨。老人们在餐厅里吃午饭，我舍不得浪费这点时间，借了一把伞走进雨里。雨天的湖面被雨滴弄得颇不宁静，湖中的教堂在雨水的洗礼中默默地伫立着，远处的 阿尔卑斯山 脉被云雾缭乱，一艘载着游客的木舟划过湖面。我和他在雨里踩着落叶朝深处走去，被大雨打落的红叶铺成一条格外艳丽的小径。湖边有人在甩杆、钓鱼。我们站在树下，看着那个人一遍遍的重复着那个动作。很好奇，这么糟糕的天气，会有鱼吗？</p>
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<h5 class="title5" id="100179594">返程遇到大惊喜</h5>
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<p>驱车返回 慕尼黑 时，途径 奥地利 。我没有想到再次路过 阿尔卑斯山 脉，老天不再下雨，而是下起大雪。作为一个南方人，50年才下雪的地方；就算住在 马德里 这两年，那里一年也只有两三天飘着小雪。我从来没有见过这么大的雪啊，南方的孩子兴奋得无语伦次。</p>
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<p>我们在加油站休息时，天空一片灰蒙，鹅毛大雪从山脉间飘出来，原来下雪时，天空是灰色的啊。大家都躲在屋里取暖，就我和小朋友两人在雪中奔跑，尖叫。冷，是不存在的。我能感觉到热乎乎的泪珠往外滚，南方孩子太容易满足了。 </p>
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<p>短短几天，我们奔波在5个国家之间，护照被查看不下10次。</p>
<p>时间太短，需要看的东西太多，可是对于工作的人，已经们没有太多的假期。不想要走马观花的我，只能挑精华。</p>
<p>待到下次，下一次，我会再回来。</p>
<p>结婚三年，我们一起走过14个国家。有他在身边，我可以去任性地尝试任何事情，因为他一直在身边护我周全。</p>
<h5 class="title5" id="100179599">攻略</h5>
<p>路线</p>
<p>D1 慕尼黑 （ 德国 ）早餐， 哈尔斯塔 特（ 奥地利 ）午餐，夜宿 卢布尔雅那 （ 斯洛文尼亚 ）</p>
<p>D2 卢布尔雅那 - 扎达尔 （ 克罗地亚 ）</p>
<p>D3 杜布罗夫尼克 （ 克罗地亚 ）-涅姆（ 波黑 ）</p>
<p>D4 莫斯塔尔 （ 波黑 ）- 斯普利特 （ 克罗地亚 ）</p>
<p>D5 十六湖国家公园- 萨格勒布 （ 克罗地亚 ）</p>
<p>D6 布莱德 湖（ 斯洛文尼亚 ）- 慕尼黑 </p>
<p>。</p>
<p> 在 欧洲 旅行，大多数国家面积不太，最好的旅行方式是自驾。如果不喜欢自驾或者没有时间做攻略，可以选择跟团。现在的旅行社除了提供固定路线，酒店和餐饮等能协商，或者私人定制旅行。这是我工作后第一次休年假，旅行时间不充裕，只能考虑报团。我们这次运气很好，碰上一个很好的司导，除了详细讲解历史，对一些非必要景点和餐饮都给我们很好建议。别看我们一天跑三个国家，实则是 欧洲 国家太小，一路上可以看书、查攻略、拍照，很是惬意。</p>
<p>。</p>
<p>我们从国内飞十几个小时来一趟 欧洲 ，只呆几天前显得太浪费机票了。 西欧 国家安全系数比较高、旅游设施完善，可以选择自驾游；想游览 克罗地亚 和 波黑 建议跟团，因为这两个国家相对而言还在发展中，近几年公路一直在更新，导航都会迷路。所以大家选择跟团游几个国家，再自驾游 西欧 ，实为上上策。 </p>
<p><strong>签证</strong>： 德国 、 奥地利 、 斯洛文尼亚 属于 申根 签证；</p>
<p>克罗地亚 加入欧盟，还没有加入 申根 ，持有 申根 多次往返签证可以免签；</p>
<p>波黑 免签。</p>
<p>从 克罗地亚 本土到 杜布罗夫尼克 ，需要借道 波黑 ；从 波黑 的涅姆到 莫斯塔尔 ，因为雨天路不好走，需要借道 克罗地亚 。大概就是护照检查了无数次，头都晕了，最后也不知道自己在哪个国家。 </p>
<p><strong>景点</strong></p>
<p><strong> 哈尔施塔特 </strong></p>
<p>因为旅游业的发展拉高当地物价，原居民纷纷搬离至其他地方，现在剩下的人都在做旅游业。小镇真的不大， 亚洲 游客特别多。本来想拍小广场，全部 中国 大妈，只好放弃了。若希望出片质量高，建议住一晚，镇上的民宿很有特色哦。</p>
<p>人骨教堂：4欧，我到教堂时，人家午休关门了</p>
<p> 最新规定：2020年后，小镇开始收门票，停车时间最短3h。停车费贵到怀疑人生，3欧/h。</p>
<p><strong> 卢布尔雅那 </strong></p>
<p>最出名的龙桥，真的是一座普普通通通车的桥，还不如其他两座桥精致。在老城里沿着河边的景色不错，在小巷里会有转角惊喜。</p>
<p> 山顶的城堡是 新建 的，不值得观看；教堂在弥撒时间，禁止游客入内，希望大家尊重规则。</p>
<p>推荐：Hotel Meksiko，酒店位于 卢布尔雅那 大学附属医院旁，离龙桥1km。房间相当整洁，早餐不错，设有停车场。</p>
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<p><strong> 扎达尔 </strong></p>
<p>一座典型的旅游城市，冬天近乎空城。这座老城景色不如 斯普利特 、 杜布罗夫尼克 ，主要特色是海边的海风琴。如果不是顺路，我觉得不需要浪费时间在此停留。</p>
<p><strong> 杜布罗夫尼克 </strong></p>
<p>去杜城，需要借道 波黑 ，如果预算有限，建议在 波黑 的涅姆住宿，物价很低。杜城物价很高，跟 慕尼黑 差不多。不过， 杜布罗夫尼克 值得住一晚，很美。</p>
<p>跟团出入杜城，需要交20欧费用，老城不收门票。城墙门票150k，2.9km，有体力的朋友值得参观，城墙共三个入口，可以选择出入，但门票只能进出一次。</p>
<p><strong> 莫斯塔尔 </strong></p>
<p>这是全程唯一下雨下到绝望的地方。我真心觉得只是为了看一个复原的古桥不知道驱车前来。当然天气好的时候还可以在附近走走，雨天真心不推荐。</p>
<p>古城有一家餐厅值得推荐Podrum，老板在 意大利 多年，战后回来看了这家烤肉馆。</p>
<p><strong> 斯普利特 </strong></p>
<p>光看老城?宫殿就很震撼，即使我去的时候天气不好，却又有另一番景色。五星推荐。</p>
<p>广场的钟楼门票3欧，可以登顶俯瞰老城。可惜我去时正是乌云盘桓，暴风雨来临前的压抑，没有上楼。可惜可惜了。</p>
<p><strong> 十六湖国家公园公园</strong></p>
<p>整个公园分成多条路线，最经典的要ABC线，我们走C线，大概3小时，老年人可以考虑走B线。至于其他EFK线需要专业登山设备，并且过夜才可行。</p>
<p>票价：（11-3月）成人15€、青少年（7至18岁）6€</p>
<p>（4和10月）成人22€、青少年12€。</p>
<p>（6-9月）成人36€、青少年16€</p>
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<p><strong> 布莱德 湖</strong></p>
<p>度假首选，需小住几日才可窥其精华。铁托有一座度假庄园在此，先改成酒店。如果只是来湖边打卡，我觉得没有必要跑那么远 </p>
<p><strong> 萨格勒布 </strong></p>
<p>我在这座城市呆的时间不多，老城里很美，维护很好；城外一些老建筑由于维护不足，显得很破烂，像是战后的城市。</p>
<p>我们住的 三星 酒店Hotel Aguna，是南斯拉夫解体前，当地政员和名流才能住的地方。现在显得破旧一点，可以感受一下浓浓的社会主义体制。</p>
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<p>酒店旁边有一家烤肉馆Grill Zar，力荐。我们点了一份带奶酪球的烤香肠和烤蔬菜，天啊，这里竟然有烤黄瓜。这是我一次在 欧洲 看到烤黄瓜，居然能蘸着奶酪吃烤黄瓜，两行泪潸然而下。消费很低，人均7€。</p>
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<p>-FIN-</p>
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